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Turbo on 2000 Limited 5.0

Turbo compressor map.gif
Well guys, I don't even have it yet and I'm looking at going turbo.

I think I'll be going STS style with the turbo underneath the the body. I'm hoping I can find room somewhere closer to the front to mount it. If not, I may just go classic style and cut the muffler out and install the turbo in its place.

Tim was kind enough to point me at a turbo for sale locally. I'm checking it out now. I sent the specs to James Henson to see what his thoughts are.

Here's the specs:
t4 F1-68 turbine .68 a/r housing 3" exhaust outlet with a 72mm compressor blade 4inch inlet, 2.5 inch outlet, journal bearing. Also, see compressor map attached. I have a vague understanding, and that concerns me.

Now, the next issue is oil routing.
Oil in to the turbo would be handled from a T off the oil pressure sending unit on the block. Return oil would need a scavenge pump to the top of the oil pan, or in the timing chain cover. The scavenge pump adds quite a bit of cost to the setup. I think saving a few bucks in this area would spell disaster. So, this seems to be the best pump out there:
http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/Exa-Pump/Exa-Pump.html
Stainless steel oil lines will have to be used. As I read about under cab mounted turbo's oil issues seem to be a huge issue. This is going to require careful thought and routing.

My real issue is routing the air filter and compressed air up to the engine bay.
The frame rails will be the the way. I saw one guy notched out his frame for the plumbing and re-enforced the frame by welding metal around the plumbing line (3 inch or 4 inch hole). I'm concerned about running the two pipes and think this will be the biggest challenge. I really don't want that air filter under the truck.
See what this guy did on his ranger?


As for Maf? Pro-M all the way, in a blow thru design.

Fuel pump, injectors, sct go without saying. I'll be having James put together a care package for me along with the Pro-M.
Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump
Bosch uscar (EV6) 60lb injectors part # 108191

I'll recycle my boost gauge and wide band o2 from my supercharged 4.0 ohv.

I'll be using stainless steel for everything under the truck as rust always seems to be an issue.

Also. intercooling. I learned from my last project that cool intake air is incredibly important. People say on under cabin turbo's you don't really need it as the compressed air cools on the way up. Not good enough for me. Im going to go air/water so I have flexibility as to where I mount the intercooler. This could change, but intercooling of some form is a must.

My eye's are watering at what this is going to cost.

I see 02Limited turbo'd his, but he must have had quite a few issues and fell off the forum.

Not much info on guys completing something like this to be found. All input appreciated.

This will be a long process.
 



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Pretty neat! I just ordered two from Amazon for about $21 (included shipping and handling). The ones I ordered appear to be assembled. I don't have a need for one yet but I'm sure something will come up. Thanks for posting the links!

Which one did you buy Dale?

Good ideas, I'd like to use one like it too.

That could also be useful for the extra fuel pump I'm planning to use. I'm going to mount two identical pumps in the tank, with one for WOT use only . A good pump will feed a blown engine well in normal driving, and a second one can handle the boost. I want a circuit like a dual tank truck, to be able to switch pumps. That way a bad pump cannot strand you anywhere, just swap pumps for normal driving.
 



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Ok, I have another interesting solution to our intercooler pumps.
How about pulse width modulation based on voltage from the tps? How cool is that?

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_111507/article.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-15A-DC-...-Controller-/330738790338?hash=item4d01916fc2

With this, we can vary the speeds of our intercooler pumps by throttle position. At half throttle, the pump may only be running 40%. At full throttle, were at about 98% duty cycle on the pump. I'm excited. This will give great pump life, and keep the intercooler working optimally.
 






PWM motor controller

I considered purchasing one of those for my fuel pump controller but I couldn't find a supplier in the US and didn't want to buy direct from China. 15 amps should be adequate for the Bosch pump but is it enough for the Meziere pump? It's too bad lengthening the on to off time also lengthens the off to on time.
 






Ok, I am 99% certain I found the cause of my p0340 (and other issues)

Here's some other symptoms:
1. wouldn't drop in to Overdrive, most of the time. James couldn't seem to tune it out.
This started occurring sometime in either the turbo going in, or one of the many motor swaps that has happened.
2. the P0340 cam position sensor errors I mentioned
3. hard starting when warm (not absolutely sure about this one yet)
4. tach needle randomly jumping around when driving (this is a new(er) issue)
5. Idle issues - high reving when warm

I pulled my trusty multi-meter out, set it to AC, and probed the cps sensor wires with the truck running. cps is working. So, I probe the single wire at the pcm connector (pin 85). cps signal is still there. wtf I says to myself.
I loosen off the pcm connector bolt and I pull the connector off. No bent pins. That's a bonus.
Next, I rummaged thru my thousand spray cans and came up with some spray electronic contact cleaner (Tim made this suggestion last week). I gave all the pins a good spray down.
Then out came the di-electric grease and a small probe. I put a dab of this stuff on/in the hole of pin 85 on the wiring harness side. Then, replace and tighten down connector.

Its like a new truck now. At 65 mph I'm idling down the hwy at just over 2000rpm. Tach doesn't bounce around anymore (Happy days, I was searching for a new cluster to replace it with). Im pretty sure the p0340 is fixed, but I'll have to drive for a few more days to be sure.

How do you piss your tuner off? Have him chasing stuff that is electrical issues. Then, you send him an email telling him you found the issue and to move all the idle settings hes been playing with back to factory. Sorry James! :banghead:

I'm not sure about the detonation yet either, but its possible this is fixed also. More seat time required.
 






seriously??? do you know how long of a long shot that was when i said that? hey, what the hell. dont look a gift horse in the mouth right? crappy thing is now you ordered a sensor you wont be needing...
 






Ok, I have another interesting solution to our intercooler pumps.
How about pulse width modulation based on voltage from the tps? How cool is that?

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_111507/article.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-15A-DC-...-Controller-/330738790338?hash=item4d01916fc2

With this, we can vary the speeds of our intercooler pumps by throttle position. At half throttle, the pump may only be running 40%. At full throttle, were at about 98% duty cycle on the pump. I'm excited. This will give great pump life, and keep the intercooler working optimally.

Guess ill throw this out here for discussion. .being the Bosch pump is not a direct drive,i wonder at what voltage does it take to over come the resistance of the water and weight of the blades??? Like most fans wont start spinning till say 6 or 7 volts is applied, this was pointed out in that article. .would or does this happen with the Bosch pumps..a direct drive pump i would think would take less voltage to get it spinning. .also the most restrictions the Bosch pump has as far as water flow,the slower it spins.lower the voltage with high restrictions and it might not spin at all..

Thoughts or anyone wanna test this??
 






Once the pulse width unit shows up I'll be testing.
As its been pointed out, the bosch pump is not direct drive. To me, that would mean that the pump would turn under very small pulses, but it would actually take quite a while for the water to get moving at any reasonable flow. Following that logic, with my current setup (pump not turning on until boost is referenced) water doesn't even really start flowing at any significant rate until after I'm done my wot run (A very short period).

So, How do we overcome this? Really, there is no automatic way for anything to anticipate there is going to be a wot pull. I'm going to say its going to take the pulse width unit (Keeps the initial inertia of the water moving at part throttle) and an over ride switch. Its either this, or leave the pump run all the time when the vehicle is running.
 












The TPS indicates demand intentions to the PCM. It is the best "anticipator".

What I think would work very well would be to somehow set the minimum pump duty cycle to something like 25% and have the pump duty cycle ramp up from there as the TPS voltage goes up. This circuit design gets more and more complicated.
 






water is incompressible

Water is basically incompressible. If there are no air pockets between the pump and the intercooler as soon as there is flow at the pump there will be flow at the cooler. However, the temperature of the coolant in the intercooler will not drop until the volume of the coolant in the heat exchanger reaches the intercooler. Below is a graph of flow vs pressure.
FlowComparisons.jpg

I was concerned about how the flow dropped to nothing at 7 psi so I inserted a pressure gauge at the output of the pump. As I recall the measured pressure was about 5 psi and it occurred within a few seconds of activating the pump.
 






My thinking on the bosh pump being slower to get water moving is that it probably takes it a bit of time to get the water moving as its not direct drive. I could definitely be off base on this.

I think that 4pointslow has the best solution. The meziere pump on a switch. Anything else we are doing is a performance compromise. I don't know how some guys use bilge pumps for this application.

I'm going to keep going on the pulse width system and see how it goes. Since I already have the pump I'm going to keep going with it. Worst case I wire it to the same signal as my oil return pump and let er run until replacement is necessary.
 






My thinking on the bosh pump being slower to get water moving is that it probably takes it a bit of time to get the water moving as its not direct drive. I could definitely be off base on this.

I think that 4pointslow has the best solution. The meziere pump on a switch. Anything else we are doing is a performance compromise. I don't know how some guys use bilge pumps for this application.

I'm going to keep going on the pulse width system and see how it goes. Since I already have the pump I'm going to keep going with it. Worst case I wire it to the same signal as my oil return pump and let er run until replacement is necessary.

Yea im interested in your results. .i have had my pump wired to run whenever key is on and have had it for over 3 years or so..but if PWS works out id like to go that route as the pump is LOUD
 






Results are going to take longer.
Tim and I are at the track. First pass, we both go up in smoke at 1000 feet.

I heard detonation, and let off the gas. Tim popped a frost plug, and I think I took out a head gasket.

My truck won't start, but at least it turns over. Tims going to tow me to his place since it's a bit closer to home for me. Then I'll figure out how to get it home.
As much as the guys at the track are not happy with us for spraying down the track, I have bigger issues.

At least Tim could plug his frost plug hole and we can both get on our way.

I'm not a happy guy right now.
 






track

Sorry to hear it.
Here's hoping it is something cheap and easy to fix.
 






yea, things went 50 shades of **** for the both of us. we kinda put a black cloud over the explorer name today. managed to patch evil up and tow don to my place, then we hooked his truck to my ranger and pulled it back to his house where he is now in is not so happy place doing not so happy things.....
 






Cylinders are full of coolant.

motors on its way out again. I'm working tonight, so I am done for today and wont get started till later tomorrow. I still think the motor will be out tomorrow night.

I would never have believed the track was so much harder on a motor. Im sure it was quite the sight seeing 2 explorers going up in smoke at about the 1000 ft mark.

I let off the gas, but stuff happens really fast at that speed.

I'm sure this is the result of detonation, but the question is.....What do I do with the motor once its out? Just replace head gaskets and go?



Here's the all to familiar site:
 

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Maybe Tim will post the track slip. He did pretty good (helmet worthy), and I ran a 14.7 at 90mph. Not bad for pulling off the gas.

My slip os in my truck somewhere. I have no idea where right now.
I know my 60ft time is slow as the turbo is slow to spool, but am wondering about my reaction time at the tree.
 









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Dono, I am so sorry this is happening to you. It just isn't fair.
Glad you are OK, coolant leaks at high speeds can do horrible things to traction. A coworker of mine had a hose blowout on a road course and sent him spinning. He was fortunate to regain control with out an accident.

Tim mentioned a turbo hose blowing off before you guys raced, was that a boost hose? What boost were you running? Please let us know what you find when you get the motor out.

Damn, a 14.7 while lifting? That shows the potential this truck has.
Did you spin off the line like Tim or did you have traction off the line?
 






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