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Turbo on 2000 Limited 5.0

Discussion in 'Need for Speed!' started by Dono, June 30, 2013.

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    1. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      I am still knocking the intercooler pump control thing around in my head.
      I was thinking pulse width modulation using the tps sensor. Problem with this is at low pulses, the coolant probably isn't moving enough.

      I'm thinking this product:
      http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=Incredibly-cheap-voltage-switch&A=113008
      With this, I could separate the tps from this unit with a diode, and still use the pot to adjust on voltage so the inter-cooler come on full at part(say 1/4) throttle. with this setup, I could use a switch in the cabin (Wired in-between the diode and voltage switch) to key the inter-cooler pump to have it on all the time if I wanted without affecting the tps voltage.
      This would accomplish my requirement of the inter-cooler pump not drawing current in stop and go traffic but yet run when the rpm's are a bit higher and the alternator can supply enough current under all conditions.
      The adjustable pot on the voltage switch makes me think this is the correct way to go.
       
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    3. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      i was thinking about this a few days ago. could you not have it triggered to your meth controller?
       
    4. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      The intercooler pump needs to run much more than the w/m pump. It's the idling with air/e fan/air cond/headlights that becomes an issue. if I can have the pump turn on, and stay on, at anything over a quarter throttle id be good. I doubt it would bother to turn on under normal driving, but would turn on before hitting boost.... its the continuous run for a minute or two after hitting boost I haven't figured out yet.
       
    5. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      I completed another 11hr round trip, no issues (mostly) life's great.

      I clearly cursed myself by saying I had no leaks. I'm in my home city visiting my parents and I look at the rear tire. oil spray. nice.
      a swipe of the finger, and its clearly rear diff oil.

      Back home, I drove over to a well respected differential shop today. I simply asked 'how much for a full diff rebuild with bearings and clutches'?

      I walked back to work, and walked back to the shop 5 hours later. Its all done but the crying (and paying for it).
      They felt the burnt out clutches increased the end play in the axle taking out the seal. I have no idea, but I do know I now have warranty. I didn't even ask for the old parts....... how reckless is that? lol
       
    6. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      At least it is done and you don't have to worry about it anymore.
      Afraid to ask, what does that cost anyway?
       
    7. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Good trip home I expect to see family yes?

      The rear labor costs have gotten very high all over in the last many years. What used to be a $200 job to swap gears is now $500 easily(in the 90's Mustang shops used to do the Mustangs for $100).

      Setting up the gears properly is the special part, anyone can do any other rear work readily. I did my 98 truck's rear, and the rear bearings and seals(not the pinion), Severe Gear fluid, for around $75. I left the clutches untouched knowing I'd upgrade to a better diff.
       
      Last edited: August 9, 2016
    8. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      $700.00
      They caught me at a weak moment when I just wanted the problem to go away.
      The good part is that I know the shop is very good, and all they do is differentials and manual transmissions.
       
    9. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      lol, you have massive balls compared to me at the moment. i am still afraid to take a drive to gimili, and thats only 45 mins away! as for the diff bill, thats really not to bad. i think the bearing and seal kit it around 200, and the clutch pack kit is another $100. did you take it to asperline?
       
    10. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      Yup, they are just down the street from work, so it was super easy for me.
      I haven't tried out the limited slip yet. I really want to get the boost under control before I start hammering on it.

      Interesting thing is, I have some amsoil gear fluid for the rear end, but they said they would not use it. Their experience is that synthetic fluid glazes the clutches. So, now I still have this expensive synthetic gear oil in the garage with no use for it. :(
       
    11. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      I haven't "inspected" the traction lok clutches of any of my cars, but they all have the Amsoil in them. I put the Torsen in my Mercury in 2004, and those have no clutches, thus no need for friction modifier either. I didn't use a friction modifier in my new 98 because I'm hoping to change the differential soon enough.

      Most times the clutches are worn out for any Ford you see, they don't last very long unless the vehicle never sees hard use, gravel etc.

      FYI, most times you can rearrange the clutches of the Ford LS, and end up with one more set on each side. Stock has three pairs, with steels doubled up in places. By removing steels and having frictions between each, usually four will fit. My 93 I did that with and it was very tight to fit the axles back in(the c-clips), but it fit and worked great. Those didn't wear out nearly as fast as my Crown Vic LS did before that.

      The LS clutch kits used to be $50 from Ford(1999), and you have to have an extra set to be able to possibly fit the extra frictions.

      Synthetic gear oil is required by OEM for the Explorer, so they all had it stock. It is no issue for clutches. You shop there may have been dealing with race applications where people are much harder on the rear gears and axles etc. Who knows, and in such cases those guys would be opening up their rear often, replacing with fresh cheap grease may be no big deal for them.

      Ford and most synthetic gear oils are near $25 a quart. Severe Gear is $10-$11 per quart, plus shipping etc. It's also better.
       
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    12. gmanpaint

      gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free Elite Explorer

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      Sorry you got the whammy. I just went through this last week myself, but had a carrier bearing explode, taking everything with it. I had to replace everything but the 2 axle shafts. I know the pain on this one.

      Am I understanding this correctly? They did an LS kit & housing tube seals, and used Dino fluids?

      Which bearings did they replace? Axle tubes, or Carrier? Did they reset the gears and use a master install kit with all new bearings and pinion crush sleeve? $700 for just the LS kit and seals is high, but if they reset the gears, and installed everything that comes in a master install kit also, $700 is a good price.

      I agree with Don and the diff fluids 100%. Full Synth is best in my book. Using Dino fluids, be prepared to change it often, if your going to use this rig as I think you will. LOL!!
       
    13. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      They installed all bearings (axle's and carrier), seals, and ls kit using dino fluid and that anti chatter additive that stinks so bad. I'm going to leave the dino fluid in there for now. I do have the synthetics and additive if I choose to make the change.

      I'm guessing that they would have had to reset the gear lash also. They would have done the carrier bearings as they told me with age that bearing wears causing wear of the rear pinion seal.

      Its super nice not leaving any signature oil spots on the ground any more.

      I have the new waste gate in, and its controlling boost nicely. I have the boost controller backed right off, and have a total of 2 lbs boost max. I'll start turning up the boost with the boost controller over the next few days. Then I can get back to wot tuning.
       
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    14. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      YES! waste gate is on now you can have some fun!
      2 lbs is nice and low too, so you know it is working well.
      Did you install the waste gate or did you have to take it to the exhaust shop?
       

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    15. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      I took it to the exhaust shop.
      I could have bought an adapter that might have worked, but I had a down pipe that was randomly resonating on the frame that needed to be 'adjusted' anyway.

      I added a spring to the waste gate for a couple of reasons.
      1. fiddling with the boost controller knob, doing a wot run to check boost level, then re-adjusting knob can take a long tome to find the desired boost.
      2. I was reading that a rule of thumb is that a boost controller should be used to no more than double boost on the spring(s).

      I added a .3 bar spring to the waste gate and am now at about 6 lbs boost (opportunity to pass on the way to work today gave me a chance to test). Now I get to go back to #1 (above) to find a few more lbs boost.
       
      Last edited: August 11, 2016
    16. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      Have you looked into an electric boost controller/gauge?
      Some have settings that can be memorized, and pushing buttons on the boost gauge would be a little easier than turning a knob.
      You could have setting 1 as daily driver mode, then if someone comes along that looks fast you could go to setting 2 which might be called leave you in the rear view mirror mode. lol
       
    17. vroomzoomboom

      vroomzoomboom Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS! Elite Explorer

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      *cough*
       
    18. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      lol
      I think at 10 lbs boost you are in trouble, even with my soft starts off the line.

      It's very strange, I keep cranking on the boost controller and the boost doesn't go up. I've checked, and re-checked my vacuum ports and they are fine. The boost controller worked on the other wate gate.

      If all else fails, I have another .3 bar (4.3 lb) spring I can add to the waste gate. That will put me at just over 10 lbs boost. I don't want to go over that anyway. I'm certain I'd be in block splitting territory.
       
      Last edited: August 11, 2016
    19. ahodges

      ahodges Well-Known Member

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      nahh.. it takes a lot to split a block, maybe not as much to blow a head gasket as you have found out. you need to be pushing 500 - 600 hp to split a block. Are you suggesting you are in that range?!
       
    20. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      I'm sure at 10lbs boost I'll be over 500 fly wheel hp.
      Any dyno sheets I have seen of a 347 like ours (Aluminum heads, increased compression, big cam, boost...) is over 500rwhp at 10 lbs boost. I think we have a lot of drive train losses so I have no idea what rwhp will be. I might be able to go over 10 lbs boost, but I have to keep pushing timing closer to the 0 mark on 91 pump gas, and I wonder where the gains start to be minimal anyway.
      As I get things fine tuned, I plan to strap the truck to a dyno to get a better idea whats happening.
      I will say that every couple of pounds boost makes a huge difference.

      Also, what is it with you guys posting at such odd hours? Between ahodges and 4pointslow, I wonder if its a per-requisite of this forum not to sleep.
       
    21. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      The PCM tune and rpm's will have more to do with breaking a stock block usually. A bad tune can kill one at 400hp, or the tune and 7000rpm etc. You've got the rpm's plenty low I'm sure, so keep the timing and fuel safe, and it should be fine. That is, the weak pistons are a weaker link than the block given a good tune.
       
    22. Dono

      Dono V8 Limited turbo and retired SC 4.0 OHV Elite Explorer

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      You could be right. I agree on the high rpm's for sure.
      This is my daily driver (Although with all the down time this could be disputed) and I would prefer to not ride the edge and actually be able to drive my Ex for a while.

      Although there are lots of factors causing blocks to rip in two, one commonality is definitely high(er) horsepower, and 500hp seems to be a general consensus. The turbo comes on smoothly and there is no parasitic loss with no added belt on the front of the motor, but I know if I keep upping the boost I keep pushing closer to the 'go boom' (again) line.

      Im shooting for around 10lbs boost, and stopping there.
       
    23. 4pointslow

      4pointslow Explorer Torture Tester Elite Explorer

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      LOL
      Was day shift for 3 weeks, up at 4:00 am.
      I miss sleep, a lot.
       
    24. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      The turbo is easier on the engine for sure. 8-10 psi is at the limit that most people push a stock 302, the pistons and head gaskets being the worry more than the block. But that was 20+ years ago before making 500hp was common. Now the block is the big deal, and it's not far past the rest of the parts for reliability. Ford never imagined a simple 302 making 2hp/ci.

      I hope I can make a pulley guess to get a blower to hit 8psi and not over 10, to survive until a stronger engine can be built.
       
    25. Turdle

      Turdle I bake stuff Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    26. delexploder

      delexploder Elite Explorer

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      I have seen similar block braces , also my local ford engine guru taps all the freeze plug holes and uses pipe plugs , even the ones in the oil galleys , the ones in the block add rigidity the ones in the oil galleys are to hold up to the 80 psi oil pressure ,
       
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