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For Sale Upper control arms... Extended WITH UNIBALL

I have an 07 and I know they have to be fabbed up to fit but would these work with 4.5" lift in front? and a 4" in back?
 



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I wish for 5"+ lift kit, but it seams to be a dream till now

To do that, I think I need to
  • Extend front and rear knuckles
  • Extend drive shafts with CV joints
  • Extend struts and spring coils
  • Extend steering shaft
  • Extend sway bars links (or drop down sway bars)
  • Fabricate sub-frames with proper blocks (front and rear) to drop down the following:
    Differentials
    Lower control arms
    Steering rack and pinon
 






The only thing that seems hard is extend the front and rear knuckles just cuz ive never seen it done. and fabricating drops for the differentials, LCA and steering. But For the lift itself I was thinking about using truxx lift which I have and rancho 2" lift coilovers. just pop em together and you have 4.5"n of lift. also with a 3 inch body lift you have 7.5 inches of lift to play with. :) easier said then done of course.
 






The only thing that seems hard is extend the front and rear knuckles just cuz ive never seen it done. and fabricating drops for the differentials, LCA and steering. But For the lift itself I was thinking about using truxx lift which I have and rancho 2" lift coilovers. just pop em together and you have 4.5"n of lift. also with a 3 inch body lift you have 7.5 inches of lift to play with. :) easier said then done of course.

your math is slightly wrong

don't forget that coils will settle down

I already have the Truxxx with Rancho QL Loaded, the total life with 31.6" tires (265/70R17) is only 3.74" compared to stock (given that tires contributing with 1" lift)

I don't like body lift because it is not a real lift, the frame is not lifted

the only benefit of body lift is the ability of using larger tires (which require re-gearing the axle diff's for compensation)
 






also body lift will decrease the stability of the truck. Because, body lift will shift the central gravity of the the truck
 






your math is slightly wrong

don't forget that coils will settle down

I already have the Truxxx with Rancho QL Loaded, the total life with 31.6" tires (265/70R17) is only 3.74" compared to stock (given that tires contributing with 1" lift)

I don't like body lift because it is not a real lift, the frame is not lifted

the only benefit of body lift is the ability of using larger tires (which require re-gearing the axle diff's for compensation)

also body lift will decrease the stability of the truck. Because, body lift will shift the central gravity of the the truck


any lift will make the canter of gravity higher causing turning issues. If you lift the whole truck (suspension lift) more weight is placed higher therefore giving you a higher center of gravity. A body lift as you guys now just lifts the body. Yea it will make the center of gravity higher but there is less weight than doing a suspension lift. correct me if im wrong. Im just seeing it in my head if i am wrong let me know. Wanna learn as much as possible.

Also The differential is the lowest point on the vehicle right? No matter how much you lift your truck it will still be the lowest point. Only larger tires will raise it up right? Again correct me if im wrong.

I really dont care about re-grearing right now. Ill do it when I have to. I know its something that ill need to do once I lift the crap outta my x and put bigger tires on it but for now stock gears are alright. Im only runnign 32's so its not bad at all.


I always forget about the settling of the coils. I always look at initial not what it will be after driving around awhile.

And also with our axles running through our frame in the back with an extended amount of lift i think a c notch would be in order correct? Or a Unotch i guess.
 






Also The differential is the lowest point on the vehicle right? No matter how much you lift your truck it will still be the lowest point. Only larger tires will raise it up right? Again correct me if im wrong.

Not on 3rd gens the lowest point is the lower control arm, the diff actually sits up pretty on ifs/irs set up i have yet yo get hung up on my diff just the LCA just to the inside of the tire... and yes the only way to get that higher is bigger tires
 






any lift will make the canter of gravity higher causing turning issues. If you lift the whole truck (suspension lift) more weight is placed higher therefore giving you a higher center of gravity. A body lift as you guys now just lifts the body. Yea it will make the center of gravity higher but there is less weight than doing a suspension lift. correct me if im wrong. Im just seeing it in my head if i am wrong let me know. Wanna learn as much as possible.

Also The differential is the lowest point on the vehicle right? No matter how much you lift your truck it will still be the lowest point. Only larger tires will raise it up right? Again correct me if im wrong.

I really dont care about re-grearing right now. Ill do it when I have to. I know its something that ill need to do once I lift the crap outta my x and put bigger tires on it but for now stock gears are alright. Im only runnign 32's so its not bad at all.


I always forget about the settling of the coils. I always look at initial not what it will be after driving around awhile.

And also with our axles running through our frame in the back with an extended amount of lift i think a c notch would be in order correct? Or a Unotch i guess.


Upgrading the suspension system will lower the center of gravity little down (if the the upgrade was done properly, I mean the rate of coil springs, the thickness of sway bars, the stiffness of struts and bushings were calculated correctly)

don't mix between of mass location and center of gravity, and don't think of the truck as a rigid solid mass.

The center of gravity of any vehicle can be shift up and down, depends on the configuration of suspension system



let me give you an example

you can find many cars with suspension control system (that control the stiffness of suspension sport - soft) try them and you will see what I mean

for the 4th gen you should try Monroe® Reflex® struts (front #71124 rear #71125) and you will notice a day night improving compared to OEM struts
and for 3 gen try Monroe® Reflex® struts (front #71398 rear #71322)
 






well that clears up alot. I think I need to go back to school and take another physics course. lol. thanks for the correction electrician.
 






Is only one batch being made? I want a set but at the moment i cant afford em, will more be made in the future??
 












Looks like Brandon stated that more can be made, it will just take a few weeks to turn them around since the misalignment spacers for the uniballs need to be custom machined.

Cool thanks! Deff will be a future purchase
 












Brandon told me that an extended upper control arm with uni-ball will be available for 4th gen hopefully after a month from now, depends on the mechanic load

looking forward for them to be installed in my Ursula :D
 






Oh sweet! I cant wait for these to be on my 4th gen! One more mod I cant afford yet will happen
 






Would these fit on a ranger with a 4" Superlift kit? Im real interested in getting a uniball up top.
 












Would these fit on a ranger with a 4" Superlift kit? Im real interested in getting a uniball up top.
most likely not from what i can see of the rangers its different but brandon may be able to confirm
 









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Is there a how to for the replacement yet?
 






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