Vacuum harness part number....need help!!! engine light on with wrench

[HvNd4Speed]

Hello to all,

During a simple AC check valve replacement, I broke the rigid side plastic vacuum line. I went to auto zone and bought some rubber tubing and patched it in, zip tied and test drove it. All was fine and my AC hiss is gone.

Today wife drove it and check engine light came on. The dealer doesn't know what part number it is exactly.

Coming from the intake manifold, (where it says 4.0 L) on it, there are 2 hoses, one goes to the brake booster, the other is this 1 out but turns into 3 vacuum lines inside that 90 degree arm (boot). It wraps under the intake manifold, goes towards the firewall and then heads over to passenger side of firewall where the check valve is, another (i think another Red hose) line plugs into something near that firewall also.

Here is a generic pic

I suspect that's it since that's all i touched and that rubber hose fix isn't flying. Any help is appreciated!!

 

[Rcflyer330]

what is the check engine code?

 

[baddriver]

i need this vacuum line(s) also, anyone have the part#

 

[Rcflyer330]

After looking at really bad ford diagrams I think 6L2Z18A318BA is the part number it is called the vacuum motor. That was the only thing that looked like that part in the diagrams check with the dealer to see if that is the correct part.

It could also be 8L2Z18C581B which is the vacuum harness

 

[fritz24]

That is "engine main vacuum harness-to-intake manifold fitting". Not sure with the exact part number but it is included in part assembly number 9E498

 

[baddriver]

The number is 6L2Z-9E498-A . Mine cracked underneath the intake before it connect to the fuel rail.. I bought the part but haven't ventured to try and replace it because it seems that the upper intake manifold has to be removed..

can anyone link to a "howto" for that?

 

[08TXExplorer]

I know this is an old thread but did you ever find a 'how-to' on replacing the vacuum lines? One of of the lines broke next to the boot on the back of the EGR this weekend when I replaced the EGR. If you can provide any info on the replacement, I would appreciate it.

 

[Francisco_Blanco]

I know this is an old thread but did you ever find a 'how-to' on replacing the vacuum lines? One of of the lines broke next to the boot on the back of the EGR this weekend when I replaced the EGR. If you can provide any info on the replacement, I would appreciate it.

I know this is really old but might as well post it because it could be helpful to someone else. First of all for these vacuum lines i believe there are tow parts involve, one is the vacuum harness which comes from inside the cabin and has 2 connections that go out to the engine bay, one for a vacuum valve in the heater coolant lines and the other one connects with a check that then connect to the part that end connecting to the intake.

There are 2 versions of the vacuum harness one for just front AC (8L2Z18C581A) and one for front and rear AC (8L2Z18C581B) these parts will take you halve way from the cabin to the intake manifold and if you are experiencing problems with the AC vents switching on their own under load it's mostly due to a leak on the line that connects with the next part and goes all the way to the intake.

The next part is (6L2Z-9E498-A) this is the one that goes from the intake manifold through the fuel rail then to the egr valve, next to the throttle, and ends connecting to the ac vacuum line wich controls the switching of the ac vents on the dashboard.

Now, about the replacement of these parts.

To replace the 6L2Z-9E498-A you need to take a lot of parts apart: the intake neck, then the throttle body, the EGR valve (for this one you need to unscrew the cooper tube that goes from the exhaust manifold into the EGR valve), then take the intake manifold out so you can have acces to the fuel rails where the vacuum connects. The Intake Manifold is a little tricky because for the las 2 bolts out of 8 bolts you need to take the ac compressor line out because it's between the intake and the firewall and there is no access to the bolts otherwise the bolts on the manifold are torx T30, be careful not to mess up the heads because it's a real pain to get them out afterwards.

For the 8L2Z18C581A and B i have no clue because i haven't don it yet but, i guess it will involve either taking the glove box apart or the entire dashboard.

 

[jbwilli]

I know this is really old but might as well post it because it could be helpful to someone else. First of all for these vacuum lines i believe there are tow parts involve, one is the vacuum harness which comes from inside the cabin and has 2 connections that go out to the engine bay, one for a vacuum valve in the heater coolant lines and the other one connects with a check that then connect to the part that end connecting to the intake.

There are 2 versions of the vacuum harness one for just front AC (8L2Z18C581A) and one for front and rear AC (8L2Z18C581B) these parts will take you halve way from the cabin to the intake manifold and if you are experiencing problems with the AC vents switching on their own under load it's mostly due to a leak on the line that connects with the next part and goes all the way to the intake.

The next part is (6L2Z-9E498-A) this is the one that goes from the intake manifold through the fuel rail then to the egr valve, next to the throttle, and ends connecting to the ac vacuum line wich controls the switching of the ac vents on the dashboard.

Now, about the replacement of these parts.

To replace the 6L2Z-9E498-A you need to take a lot of parts apart: the intake neck, then the throttle body, the EGR valve (for this one you need to unscrew the cooper tube that goes from the exhaust manifold into the EGR valve), then take the intake manifold out so you can have acces to the fuel rails where the vacuum connects. The Intake Manifold is a little tricky because for the las 2 bolts out of 8 bolts you need to take the ac compressor line out because it's between the intake and the firewall and there is no access to the bolts otherwise the bolts on the manifold are torx T30, be careful not to mess up the heads because it's a real pain to get them out afterwards.

For the 8L2Z18C581A and B i have no clue because i haven't don it yet but, i guess it will involve either taking the glove box apart or the entire dashboard.

Old post or not, yes this helped me in chasing own a PO401 EGR flow CE light. THANKS!