Variety of codes; could it be MAF sensor? (just put in other new parts)

[IronCurtain]

My 1995 ford explorer eddie bauer 4x4, 4 door, is giving me codes;

113- intake air temp circuit open/below -40 degrees f

157- mass air flow sensor below minimum voltage

171+175 heated o2 sensor unable to switch, right side & left side.

172+176 heated o2 sensors indicate lean condition left & right sides.

181+189- adaptive fuel rich limit reached at part throttle, right and left sides.

186- injector pulse-width higher than expected.

Now, last week car died and it turned out to be fuel pump. It had been shutting off sometimes, at stop lights or cornering, and was giving me an egr code.

So when fuel pump died, I installed new fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, and egr sensor.

Car fired up, ran fine for a couple miles, until I shut it off and tried restarting it. I spray starting fluid in, I started up and continued to run. Had no problems for a day or so, until CEL comes on and off, and it starts giving me problems when I go to start it back up after it's been driven and warmed up. If I sprayed SF in, it would start and be ok.

Now, it won't stay running. I can get it to start up if I spray SF in, but it will run for only a minute or two, and then die.

I took apart maf sensor, cleaned connections with electric cleaner, sprayed maf cleaner through maf sensor (over those 2 filaments) put it all back together, sprayed SF in, it started and seemed like it was running smooth, then died.

Could all the codes be caused by the maf sensor failing, so it's not getting the proper air/fuel mixture? I know it never had any of these codes prior to my fuel pump dying last week. I also have a thread detailing what happened and what I did to fix.

Please help!! I'd like to be able to replace maf and hopefully that'll fix it, and reset the computer and hopefully cel will stay off??? I'm stuck on side of road in a **** neighborhood in Massachusetts

 

[96eb96]

I don't know, all those codes could be a foobared computer or wiring harness. Intake air sensors are rare to fail.

Could be some ground issue or reference voltage problem. If you disconnect the MAF it should run, albeit crappy.

You have to start making voltage checks against the sensors, PCM harness and grounds.

 

[IronCurtain]

Thanks for responding

Intake air sensor I had unplugged for a min I think that's why it threw code, just haven't reset it.

I have 11ish volts from the red and black wires going to maf sensor, but can't check the other 2 because it needs to be running I think. (I disconnected the maf plug/connector to check)

I should state, the car HAS been running crappy, and if I unplug the maf, it still does the same thing, no differences....basically I can start it with starting fluid, it runs for about a minute or two, but dies. During that min or so, I can rev engine a little. But it dies.

 

[IronCurtain]

Also, while it was running, last couple days i was getting HORRIBLE gas mileage. From 18/19 down to 9 or 10mpg

 

[96eb96]

Thanks for responding

Intake air sensor I had unplugged for a min I think that's why it threw code, just haven't reset it.

I have 11ish volts from the red and black wires going to maf sensor, but can't check the other 2 because it needs to be running I think. (I disconnected the maf plug/connector to check)

I should state, the car HAS been running crappy, and if I unplug the maf, it still does the same thing, no differences....basically I can start it with starting fluid, it runs for about a minute or two, but dies. During that min or so, I can rev engine a little. But it dies.

Very hard to diagnose without data streams, fuel trims etc. Could be a massive vacuum leak. Does it die when you keep your foot on the gas? Starting fluid tells me that the injectors aren't pulsing correctly. Can you try another MAF? Maybe from a Pick and pull? Did you try to clean it? Usually it will run if you disconnect the MAF. Have you verified fuel pressure?

 

[IronCurtain]

Have not verified fuel pressure. Yes it dies whether my foot is on the gas or not. When I start it with SF, it'll run for a min or so, and I'm able to throttle it a bit, but it's hit or miss kinda.

Yes I cleaned it properly, with maf cleaner. Also cleaned the connectors with electronic cleaner.

I'm going to a pick n pull tomorrow, hope they have one. I'll give it a shot and report back. I'll also test for fuel pressure. Thanks for the responses

 

[96eb96]

Another thing is a clean crankshaft single. Without a scan tool I guess the RPM gauge may tell the story, it should have a clean sweep as you rev it.
A blocked cat could cause those issues too. We only have one cat, so it can cause an obstruction. With a scan tool you may be able to read BARO so it tells you air is flowing accurately, the MAF is measuring it and it flows down the exhaust.

You may want to look into something like this. I don't know if it is fully complete (not sure if it has the ford key, but it is a few dollars to buy). You can run lots of tests from it too. Scans up to 2000. I think I see the ford adapter, it is in the top right in one of the pics (has a wire).

With that tool you can look at fuel trims and live sensor data. No shop is going to diagnose your older truck for free, so it may be worth it.

Snap-On Diagnostic Scanner MT2500 with Extras - FREE SHIPPING | eBay

It has a k-20 key, but in the worse case you may need this:
Snap On K-2A Personality Key OBDII MT2500 Solus Modis Ethos Verus MTG Scanners | eBay

http://buy1.snapon.com/products/diagnostics/downloads/manuals/SOLUS(ZEESC310FRevA/10_AppendixA.pdf

You could always get your money back when you sell, at least $100.

 

[IronCurtain]

Thanks I'm gonna look into it!

Is there a way to test a maf, without the engine running? I went to pick and pull and got a couple of maf sensor units today, tomorrow I'm going to try them in the Explorer.

 

[Terkins]

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http://www.obdii.com/articles/Replacing_Oxygen_Sensors_Preventive_Maintenance.pdf

 

[96eb96]

Thanks I'm gonna look into it!

Is there a way to test a maf, without the engine running? I went to pick and pull and got a couple of maf sensor units today, tomorrow I'm going to try them in the Explorer.

No, they work by heating an element and seeing how much current it needs to maintain a temperature (based on airflow). That is why when they get dirty they can't read correctly.

 

[IronCurtain]

Well I got 4 from the wreck yard, I'm going to try them today when I get to my vehicle, which is 50 miles ftom my house

 

[IronCurtain]

Ok I put in the maf sensor, it pretty much starts right up, but won't stay running, and if I give it any throttle at all, it dies. Please help!!!

 

[96eb96]

Is it starting on its own or with starting fluid?
Assuming the MAF is clean I would look at fuel pressure next. I've heard of improvising with a tire pressure gauge. Think you need mid-high 30s. Next you can remove an o2 sensor to see if there is blockage.

 

[IronCurtain]

Ok assuming I connected it properly, I'm only getting 10psi at turn on, and same running. Getting proper voltage at the fuel pump. I'm at a loss. Perhaps the fuel pump I installed is ****, or the pressure regulator. Or filter. Idk.

 

[96eb96]

No, that is a big problem. I've seen relays provide voltage but they couldn't support the current.

 

[96eb96]

Maybe pull another pump at the pick and pull. I know it is a PITA. I know some parts can be **** but is this your second one that you tried? Also the original one failed. Wiring isn't out of the question. Need to know voltage/current when it runs.

 

[96eb96]

Here is a test. Take a turn signal bulb. Hook it up the the Fuel pump wires. Turn the key, it should burn bright. That will tell you if the wires can deliver adequate current. You can see it in the truck.

 

[IronCurtain]

I tested the wires running into pump today, getting 12+.

 

[96eb96]

I tested the wires running into pump today, getting 12+.

Sometimes a high impedance meter can read 12V, because there is no load on the circuit. 4 watch batteries can make 12V, but they won't start your car. That is why the light test is needed sometimes. I've seen wires get a nick and rust out internally causing problems like this (not saying you have this).

Another test is putting that clear tube in a bucket, and seeing how much gas comes out of the pressure tester. But the pump would have to run. A scan tool can switch the pump, or you may be able to jumper it from a 12V source.

Do you hear the pump run?

If you are sure there is no electrical issue I guess it is time to inhale some gas fumes again and change the pump!

 

[IronCurtain]

I took the fuel pump out, put in a different one, put it all back together, and boom started right up no problems It was definitely the fuel pump. Also the maf I put in seems to be working. I drove it 45 mins home, no check engine lights, and my miles per gallon climbed to almost 17, from 10!

Thanks for the responses! Here's hoping it starts up when I go out to work here in a minute.