Discussion in '2001-2005 Explorer Sport Trac' started by Kjhadfield, September 5, 2015.
Replaced leaking thermostat housing
Replaced tensioner pulley. No more rattle
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I did a lot this weekend - prepping my 2001 sport trac to sell it.
Rear passenger window wasn't working - after a ton of troubleshooting, I figured out the master switch in the drivers door was bad. I could've probably fixed the original one but I found one for $20 and swapped it out.
Cruise control wasn't working. At some point during the vehicle's life someone had installed a new brake position switch with the inline fuses. There was a short in the wiring harness with the fuses so I just made my own harness and it works perfectly.
Power seat wasn't working so I pulled it out - the gears/screws keep misaligning and it gets itself in a bind. found out it's something I can't just fix but I can get it back in trac to work fine unless it's slid all the way back - then it becomes misaligned again.
Oil pressure gauge wasn't working at all so I changed the oil and installed a new oil pressure sensor - works perfectly fine.
The aftermarket stereo I installed 3 years ago came with a backup camera I never felt like installing - installed that in the tailgate below the ford symbol and ran the rca cable up to the front of the cab along the top of the frame - using pre-existing holes to zip tie the cable in place.
Now this truck is in perfect condition and ready for sale
I changed spark plug wires need to change coilover but want to find adjustable ones and which is best
Adding a back up camera so since I planned to remove the dash I replaced the shift bushings so my shifter would not be so sloppy. Here is how worn out they get:
Also turns out the inner most bracket was cracked:
While I was in there, I put in a new turn signal switch - $36 from Rock Auto. Now it shifts and the turn signal operate like new. Whoever had this before hammered the controls.
I brought the wires in from the back up camera at the drivers side front kick panel.
I ran out of time with the superbowl, so the new head unit is not in yet. I just finished filing last night, but want to hit the trim piece with a little paint.
Also, I started having a little worry that I did not totally tighten all the bolts up for the steering column, so I want to address that first before bolting putting all the trim pieces together.
What I learned - if you are going to remove the shift tube shift all the way down to gear 1 first. You will have to drop the column down to near the seat to get a small ratchet with a torx on the back bolts. I made the mistake of not being in low great, bolted it all up, then could not turn the key as I bolted it up with the gear shift locked.
A new turn signal switch is an easy replacement. 2 torx screws.
Also, since I had it all apart I got rid of a few dead bugs behind the dash glass.
Back up camera is installed. Really liking it.
Here is with the color set to match the dash:
With where I installed it, surprisingly, it even works well with the tailgate down.
The only real set back was that I messed up the RCA plug when feeding the camera wiring into the interior and had to splice in a new one.
I have the wiring kit that came with my crutchfield head unit if anyone needs it. My used ST already had an after market radio and someone before me cut the wires and removed the amp and sub, so I had to splice into the vehicle wiring versus into an adapter that plugs into the factory wiring.
Decided to get a used engine for my son's ST (215k). A few pages back I mentioned the leaking head gasket and then the front chain started rattling pretty bad. I found a used engine with 135k that already had the timing chains replaced. I found it on CL and was able to check it out and listen to it before purchase. Taking it tomorrow morning to get it swapped out. Thats nothing I want to tackle. Hopefully it will work out.
Can you tell us more about the unit you installed? Does it PROPERLY fitup into the OEM dash opening? I'm looking to replace the 02 Ford OEM radio/tape deck/CD player in my Wises S/T but I would like a unit that fits into the existing space using the Ford mounting system. I dont see where you mounted the camera. If you had to run the wiring again would you do it differently?
Any double-DIN system will fit the hole in the dash and should come with what's necessary to install it. Nothing will install as easily or as securely as an OE radio, but there are adapters to make the job pretty easy.
Crutchfield sent me everything I needed. They called the double DIN a modified fit. What I had to do to modify it was file the opening in the plastic trim piece larger on all four sizes. It was not hard. The only con would be in you file too much.
My camera mounts on a thin bracket that goes behind the license plate so it sits right on top of the license plate and does not cover any of the plate. I am not particularly fond of the way the ones look that mount on the outside of the license plate and cover part of it.
I would just go to crutchfield and put in your vehicle and see what fits. If it says modified fit, you can always chat on line with them to find out what you have to modify. They are very helpful.
Replaced the front differential pinion seal. Had it done yesterday but broke one of the strap bolts that hold the axle to the yoke via the universal joint. I had it at a bad angle and kept tightening too much. Ruined my night.
Once it got warm today worked at getting the broken bolt out. I then went searching for a new bolt. I struck out but Advance Auto had a nice Moog U Joint strap kit, with two new brackets and 4 bolts. I would recommend it if anyone does the pinion seal.
Filled the front differential and drove the car. No leak. Yeah!
Now I just have to do the upgraded thermostat housing and my sport trac will be dry as a bone.
PS: for the pinion seal leave the truck off the jacks. Then you can put it in Neutral and roll it to get the other yoke bolts below the axle and easier to replace without busting a nut like I did.
As today was the first nice day we had in a while, I decided this was the day to start replacing upper and lower control arms/ball joints on out two 2000 Mountaineers. I decided to begin with the 2WD. Just finished up. No surprises (this is the 3rd time I've done this job on various Explorers). The worst part of the job for me is the constant getting up and down off the driveway to get tools. At my age doing this harder to do every year.
Tomorrow I'll make an appt at the wheel alignment shop and that will be another chore off my list. I think before I tackle the AWD Mountaineer I'm going to take a week off to recuperate and I'm going to make my useless son-in-law be my tool-bitch (it's his truck, he might as well do something, though I can't trust him to do much). The AWD will make the job a bit harder, but I've had the front end apart before, so I don't think it will be much harder doing the control arms/bj's on that truck. I just need to get the cv axles out of my way.
Picked my son's white ST up today. Runs great and sounds great (no rattle). The guy that did the engine swap, stock engine has a ST also. It has a V-10 in it, yes V-10 2wheel drive from a E-350 box truck.
Picked up my Craigslist bed Extender and dropped by the junkyard to grab a couple striker bolts to mount it and spotted a ST with factory fog lights.
Grabbed the lights for $10 to mount next weekend after I drill out the holes.
Tapped the holes for the striker bolts (late 80's Ford F150 tailgate bolts) with a 7/16 14 pitch tap. Broke two china tap handles doing it but the bolts are in and the extender mounted.
Remounted radio with the correct made kit not the crappy one all the stores sell in the new dash piece with the dual fog light switch mod, ready for the factory style fogs and the light bar coming soon.
Just two more items on my factory accessory hunt list left. Still hunting a factory bed cover and side steps.
Flushed my coolant system and ordered more stuff
Got out my tractor, got it running and cut my grass... ugh, and so the grass cutting season begins in GA.
After dying while driving the other day and having the ST towed home, I spent some time Saturday changing out the fuel filter, cleaning the throttle body and IAC, and inspecting the MAF. The throttle body was really bad. MAF looked brand new.
Unfortunately, even thought it now idles smooth, it still cut out on me several times, and with a couple of times where it did not start right away.
I need to get a fuel pressure gauge next, and maybe a code reader. Check engine light comes on when it dies, but goes right away when it starts.
Last symptom, after starting it and reeving it up to 3-3500 is started to feel like it was losing fuel.
I just filled up the damn tank the day before this happened too.
Changed my oil and filter, wires, plugs.
Two more 02 sensors this morning and I'm done.
Sickwilly, remember that the rev limiter kicks in on these trucks at the 3-3500 rpm range. It will act like its running out of fuel or not running correct.
I did not know that. So sitting in park and revving it up to 3-3500 what I experienced was the rev limiter?
As soon as I get some free time after work I plan to swap one of the relays and drive it around the block. If same symptoms persist I will go buy a fuel pressure gauge.
I called a couple local shops to get a quote on having the fuel pump replaced. Neither would give me a quote, just tried to set up a time to have me bring it in. I get that they need to test and maybe it is something else, but why not give me a quote?
At 175K I guess it is not too unexpected for the fuel pump to quit, especially if the prior owner was not good about changing the fuel filter. I could not tell if the filter I changed was original or not. All it said on is was Mexico. I had already bought a new filter, just not changed it yet.
I am gearing up to do the fuel pump. Luckily I picked up another car for my soon to be driving daughter, so I have wheels and the bus till I get this figured out.
I received my latest parts order RockAuto order today. New front brake rotors, bearings, seals and Moog poly front sway bar end-links for my daughters 2000 Mountaineer 5.0L 2WD. I'd gotten started taking stuff apart around 11:30 this morning and FedEx showed up with the parts around 2:30. New ceramic pads and hardware from AutoZone. Finished, test driven, tools put away and showered by 5:00 PM (I spent a lot of time cleaning stuff). Very happy with the results. No more pedal pulsing from warped rotors and it stops on a dime. Upper/Lower ball joints were done 2 weeks ago and wheel alignment last week. So now it's feeling like a new truck again (other than the shock absorbers - the next job on her to-do list).
Today we changed the upper and lower ball joints on my son-in-laws new-to-him 2000 AWD Mountaineer. I made him to all the hard, dirty work (which gave me great satisfaction). The job went about as well as could be expected, with the usual hassles, plus the added hassle of it being AWD. We discovered the boot on one of the outer tie-rod ends was ripped, so we'll change that tomorrow, before it goes in for a wheel alignment on Monday morning. I also made him rotate the tires, which are almost new, but both front tires were starting to wear slightly on the inside tread, due to badly worn ball joints. When my daughter owned this truck I could never convince her to let me change the ball joints on it, so doing a wheel alignment was pointless. She only drove it about 25k in the 4 years she owned it).
Update: Outer tie-rod end changed.
Fired up the orbital polisher and gave the 'Trac and our Explorer and spring cleaning. The Edge gets its spring cleaning next weekend..
My brother totaled his ST and it was the same model year as mine. 2001 4.0 SOHC. Well mine has been shaking like a dog and the transmission barely stays in gear. I don't drive it often because it's so bad but I love that truck to death. His drive train on the other hand was flawless and amazing.... so since he doesn't have his truck anymore I'm stealing it XD
It wouldn't start and I pulled it out and got it on an engine stand. The whole timing system was pretty much destroyed. So I'm doing a full timing rebuild and while I'm in here we're doing the oil pump as well. But since I don't have time to put the drive train in mine I might as well paint the engine and make it all pretty. So while I'm waiting on a specialty bolt for the back of the jack shaft (it was literally broken in half in the crash) I took and painted the valve covers blue and I'll be painting the block black next.
Finally got the light bar I got for my son for Christmas wired up. It is mounted to his roof rack. I also put side lights and rear lights on the rack. I wired it with trailer wiring for the quick disconnect ability. I plan on wiring my ST the same way so I can run the rack if I need it. I have 4 toggle switches, 3 for the roof and the forth for something on the front that we have decided on yet.
Have always worried about the bottom side of the engine area when off roading. Saw this skid plate in the junk yard and thought this just might fit. Drilled two holes in the crossmember to bolt it up, the other side is bolted to the lower part of the front bumper. Should help protect the cooler, rack, belt and such.