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What did you do this weekend? Participation required

Discussion in '2001-2005 Explorer Sport Trac' started by Kjhadfield, September 5, 2015.

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    1. 429CJ-3X2

      429CJ-3X2 Elite Explorer

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      City, State:
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      Year, Model & Trim Level:
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      The pipe between the cat and muffler on my '01 rusted completely off at the flange, so I fixed that. Before I looked to see where the leak was, I thought the muffler had a hole. I was relieved to see it was the pipe which was both cheaper and easier to fix. Once I got the pipe repaired, I looked under the truck while it was running and saw exhaust vapors coming from the sides of the muffler, so it needs replaced too - but not right away!

      Replaced the original serpentine belt on my '02. It was time after 15-16 years and 89,000 miles. It felt pretty dried out. Also greased the caliper pins on the front brakes, which I didn't do for some reason when I did the brakes 3-4 years ago. I won't make that mistake again! Since I had the front tires off, I rotated the tires, front to back.
       
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    3. doug625

      doug625 Elite Explorer

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      After replacing the donut gasket in the flange after the converter I decided to go ahead and piece together a cat back system. Tailpipe, extension pipe, and a 50 series flowmaster from amazon gives it a little growl now. Looking for some fog lights and the best place to mount them on an 02' xls.
       
    4. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      After having intermittent lighting problems on my '01 ST's HVAC control panel, I decided to swap the panel out with one from an older XLT. I also had to transfer the white face overlay to the black XLT controls (which are a bit different on the blower setting) but it now works great and is better than no lighting at all.

      Also, after having rear window glass problems for the second time (goes DOWN okay, but reverses 1/2 way while going UP and seems to act up in/after rain) I decided to see if there is an emergency override procedure outlined in the owner's manual. Turns out there is. Hold the knob in the UP position. The glass will reverse and still go down, but if you continue to hold the knob in the UP position for 2 additional seconds the glass will go up all the way. I'm not going to put that damn window down again unless I absolutely need to. If I get bored enough I plan to add a regular window switch to the rear window motor so that I can open the glass to any position desired instead of the useless VENT position, full DOWN or full UP. Thanks for a over-complicated feature Ford. If this was such a good idea, why didn't Ford include this feature on the side glass too?

      Perhaps the issue is the control module sensing too much resistance when the glass is going up, rather than the control module itself. I should also try spraying some silicon on the rear window channels to see if that helps.
       
    5. Tifoez & Lavinia

      Tifoez & Lavinia Active Member

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      After pondering the rear window full up, full down, or vent was mandated for the rear to open, I'm not sure of other makes, models, but dealing with ours, it seems like a safety feature.. If you get a normal switch figured out for any position you want, let me know ;) and good luck.. I'm sure someone has also thought of the mod, and it may already be in a thread here, I'll kick over some rocks ;)
       
    6. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      Power window motors work in 2 directions. Every motor capable of this I've ever encountered has just 2 wires going to the motor. A red and a yellow. Depending on how 12V power and ground are connected, the window either goes up or down. A power window switch is capable to switching the power/ground connections depending on whether you want the window up or down. I would permanently disconnect/cut the wires going to the rear window motor, near the motor, and install an 80's style window switch in the console. Using adequate gauge wiring, a key-on 12V power source, a fuse, a relay and a ground connection I should be able to easily achieve my ultimate goal to have a fully functional (and dependable) rear window.

      A switch like the one depicted in the link below would be ideal, though there are many other choices.
      [​IMG]

      POWER WINDOW SWITCH 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 CAMARO NEW CIS1240 | eBay
       
      Last edited: November 10, 2017
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    7. 429CJ-3X2

      429CJ-3X2 Elite Explorer

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      Please don't put a Camaro part in a Sport Trac.
       
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    8. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      Why? Are you concerned about tissue rejection?
       
    9. 429CJ-3X2

      429CJ-3X2 Elite Explorer

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      I have a strong aversion to all things Chevrolet, with Camaros near the top of the list. The 1 Camaro exception being the original ZL-1 and that's mostly because they were built for, and sold by, the dealership in the small Illinois town I was born in. And I don't like the idea of Brand X parts in Fords.
       
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    10. Sport100

      Sport100 New Member

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      Year, Model & Trim Level:
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      Rad leak at seam between tank and core. Installed new Radiator, new top and bottom hoses, check all grounds new anti freeze. Did not change rad cap or thermostat as new on August. Checked Acv between anti freeze and block good at .001. Pulled all tires to check brakes etc in preparation for by annual inspection next month. Only found a broken bracket for parking brake cable on frame below rear LH quarter panel Next weekends job. ( 2001 4x4 Sport Trac built 20/09/2000)
       
    11. N2FORD

      N2FORD Elite Explorer

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      Picked the camper shell up over the weekend. Had to drive a few hours but was only $25. I drove my son's white truck to get it since the engine is bad in my red ST IMG_20171126_165053213.jpg .
       
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    12. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      Wow, that's a steal for $25.
       
    13. 429CJ-3X2

      429CJ-3X2 Elite Explorer

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      I'd buy several at that price regardless of color. Getting one that matches the truck for $25, wow!
       
    14. 429CJ-3X2

      429CJ-3X2 Elite Explorer

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      I replaced the muffler on my '01 ST. I started this on Black Friday hoping to get it done last weekend while the weather was great, but just finished this afternoon. Fortunately it's still in the upper 50s today. First 2 problems were 1) the recommended muffler* is about $90 and I didn't want to spend $90 for a muffler I was going to replace myself, 2) None of the parts stores around had one in stock, not even the O'Reilly's, Napa, and Advance/Carquest warehouses that are within 6 miles of my house, so I would have had to order one which would have meant waiting. The local Fleet Farm store carries some AP direct fit mufflers as well as Cherry Bomb turbo mufflers. They didn't have the direct replacement* either, but I bought one I thought would fit. It fit perfectly - IF I installed it reverse of what is intended. Since AP didn't answer my e-mail asking if it could be reversed, I returned it and bought a Cherry Bomb turbo muffler which is 11" shorter than the original. I installed it using the new intermediate pipe* I bought but didn't use a few weeks ago when I patched the rusted flange joint at the cat. Using the shorter muffler required an extra pipe and joint, but it works and sounds ok. Slight rumble at idle, and you can hear it on hard acceleration, but it seems quiet cruising.

      ** The recommended muffler does not have the inlet and outlet positioned exactly like the OEM. That's true for both Walker and AP. You need an offset inlet & center outlet on the same plane, and that's not how they are on the replacements. The new intermediate pipe has 2 bends vs 1 very slight bend in the original. Maybe a new replacement muffler and the new intermediate pipe work together to get the whole thing aligned properly, but neither are a match for the original parts.

      I also upgraded my headlight bulbs to the Sylvania part that's a step above the basic. I did this on the '02 recently when one bulb burned out and was very pleased with how worked on our trip home from Kansas City in the dark 2 weeks ago. They put out a much wider beam that's whiter and brighter. Oddly, both trucks had 1 Sylvania and 1 GE bulb before I changed them.
       
    15. shucker1

      shucker1 Elite Explorer

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      98 XLT 5.0
      CHRISTMAS LIGHTS ON THE HOUSE!!!!!!

      Now I've got Louis Armstrong Airport by the house calling me asking if the next flight has permission to land!
       
    16. N2FORD

      N2FORD Elite Explorer

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      I did Christmas lights on my son's ST, ran them around the roof rack back to the rear bed side hooks, across the bed and back to the rack. Looks pretty good, picture not the best. Also installed a new set of Rancho 5000's. Also did a little cleaning and painting under the truck. IMG_20171205_195251332.jpg IMG_20171210_061452984.jpg
       
    17. N2FORD

      N2FORD Elite Explorer

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      This afternoon we went for a trail ride up on Windrock mountain. Went to the top to see the windmills, saw a little snow and a great view. Did a few trails but since we were by our self's I didn't want to get into anything very rough, plus it was cold. IMG_20171210_133320663.jpg IMG_20171210_144019282.jpg IMG_20171210_145243301_HDR.jpg
       
    18. Tifoez & Lavinia

      Tifoez & Lavinia Active Member

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      Greetings explorers.. I shall start with a humble apology, it has been a while since my last confession... "oh wait, wrong forum"
      I am sorry I haven't been around, difficult family times, and the parts fund disappears around Christmas.. I'm never giving away my ST, so sometimes it's the yard ornament, can't wait to try her out on the trails!!

      I present to yall my terrible Tuesday maintenance, the start of the official hub to hub rebuild of the soa Dana 44 on my '01 ST
      5.38 gears.. full spools front & rear.. (will edit for spec updates)
      Questions welcome ;)

      received_1916436218371103.jpeg

      received_1916436288371096.jpeg

      received_1916436315037760.jpeg

      received_1916436335037758.jpeg
       
      Last edited: December 20, 2017
    19. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      Dude! Cement blocks as safety stands? Please get yourself some real safety stands. I hope you never use cement blocks while working on the heavy end of your truck.
       
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    20. Tifoez & Lavinia

      Tifoez & Lavinia Active Member

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      I do have actual jack stands when wrenching on her, Im currently only using the blocks to keep the axle level until I put a tube in the passenger tsl, I nicked the sidewall and she consistently goes flat every week.. rather than have a flat spot to encourage dry rot and splitting..
      I chose to use the block because even though she looks as if she is on a flat spot, the slight hill makes the block safer because of the bottom surface area of the block, I should have used a wood spacer on the axle and block surface to prevent chipping the block and possibly failure of the block.. on an honest level I've used blocks more times than I can count, and they are usually $1.50 each at lowes..
      Once I use the welder to create a pad on a modified jack stand for my "hill" I will be retiring the block, lol.. the lean of the stand scares the crap outta me, and honestly the block was laziness ;)
       
      Last edited: December 20, 2017
    21. shucker1

      shucker1 Elite Explorer

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      Yes agreed, blocks are $1.50 each but getting yourself "Smashed" is priceless.

      We are only trying to look out for your safety.
       
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    22. Kjhadfield

      Kjhadfield Active Member

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      I seen a confession post above- I believe I absolutely need to confess! Minus a couple months ago coming here real quick to replace an alternator, I haven’t done a damn thing. Its been yrs since coming to this wonderful forum but I’m kinda happy this thread is still active since started!

      I need to Lift the front end today to see if I feel play in the wheel bearing- past week noticed random squealing on/off and yesterday more of a grinding randomly, so much so scared me to drive it. Don’t think it could be the brakes (it has been a couple yrs but I literally don’t think I put even 500-1k miles since) mind you I’m no mechanic to diagnose.
       
    23. Kjhadfield

      Kjhadfield Active Member

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      My initial rock the tire test. Doesn’t look good
       
    24. sethsport

      sethsport Member

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      Hmmm yeah def need a new wheel bearing. Pull rim, caliper,rotors etc then I think the nut is a 32mm. You may need a pulley orrr flush up the nut on the axle and give it a good thwack!

      Very important!!!Take the hub up to the parts store with you and match them up and don’t go to autozone. The part # they had for my 03 trac was wrong twice!!! I went to advance auto and they had a moog which was spot on!
       
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    25. Kjhadfield

      Kjhadfield Active Member

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      I pulled the tire off to inspect and was suggested to replace the upper/lower ball joints and possibly the tie rod ends. Good thing is I have new moog uca and outer tie rods already that I never installed yet. Just ordered the lower ball joints. Was told to check the wheel bearing once I pull the rotor/caliper and yank on the hub. I didn’t get that far because well it’s xmas eve. Check next uploaded video to see the upper ball joint. And I’m kinda hoping I’ll be alright with just the outer tie rod (going to do the outer just because I already have it)

      If I need a wheel bearing I may try rock auto first before the local stores.
       
    26. Kjhadfield

      Kjhadfield Active Member

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      How likely will the wheel bearing be ok based on the 2 videos? Could the ball joints and tie rod explain the random grinding and wheel movement both top/bottom and left/right in the first video or is that to much hopeful thinking
       

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