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What did you do this weekend? Participation required

Discussion in '2001-2005 Explorer Sport Trac' started by Kjhadfield, September 5, 2015.

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    1. N2FORD

      N2FORD Elite Explorer

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      The video shows just moving the bad boot. With a boot that bad the joint will need to be replaced. The grease is probably all gone and the joint is metal to metal with road grime getting in there. I would recommend replacing the upper and lower at the same time and get the alignment done very soon after that.

      Merry Christmas to my fellow ST owners.
       
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    3. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      That boot is what the BJ boots looked like on every one of my Explorers, Mountaineers and my ST. I don't know exactly when the OE boots rot away, but I bought all my trucks with around 160k-185k on them. The upper ball joints on my ST were the worst, being extremely worn, squeaky and sloppy.

      FYI's: The OE upper ball joints cannot be replaced in the upper control arm. You must replace the entire arm. Moog Problem Solver replacement UCA's come with replaceable ball joints (I don't know about other brands). I've replaced 6 sets of upper and lower ball joints. Not a horrible job, but removing an replacing the UCA bolts on the driver's side is challenging. They only come out and go in one way (lots of fiddling required) and there are A/C and fuel lines that are in the way. An immediate wheel alignment is required after changing ball joints and you may need chamber alignment kits, though only one of my trucks required the chamber kits and that caused me lots of problems because the bolts kept coming loose, ruining my alignment.

      Note: If the bushings in the 2-piece passenger side UCA are worn, you can either replace the bushings, or install a 1-piece UCA. If the bushings in your LCA's are worn, you can replace the bushings or purchase complete new LCA's with new ball joints installed.
       
      Last edited: December 25, 2017
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    4. Kjhadfield

      Kjhadfield Active Member

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      Yes I have the moog uca already in hand and the 1 piece for the passenger side. Also have a lifetime alignment from firestone which is good. When I put the new rubber on had them align it and had to put on the chamber kit for the passenger because they said couldn’t get in the green. So I’ll go ahead and put that on the drivers side while I’m in there. Good to know about them backing out- blue loctight a good idea then I suppose? Or no because of the alignment after.

      I was thinking about the whole lca but opted for just the moog lower bjs. Didn’t think to check the bushings. I hope a visual look will suffice. I should of just bit the bullet and got the whole unit like I did for everything else.
       
    5. sethsport

      sethsport Member

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      Yea I’m definitely not a great mechanic. I just fix stuff if I have to and learn as I go. I did my wheel bearing on the fly because It was shot and I got stranded. then I replaced both uppers/lowers/and tie rods because the originals were bad. Did a torsion lift while I was in there and got new AT’s when I got the alignment after it was all said and done. I have a write up on here somewhere for the new arm installation. I’ll see if I can find it. But yeah, thats a toss up. Could just be those really bad joints. Or just replace it all and call it a day. Good to know about the camber kits, I got both upc,lca,camber kit,sway links and inner and outer tie rods all from rockauto. All moog.
       
      Last edited: December 25, 2017
    6. sethsport

      sethsport Member

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    7. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      I replaced the radiator in my '01 ST today. The old one was just 2 years old, but the tank gasket/seal let go and, of course, it was just out of warranty. I found a brand new radiator (still in the box) on CL. The guy bought it for his '98 ranger, but traded the Ranger in before installing it. He was going to return the rad, but the return shipping was $50 (due to the box size). He only wanted $50 for the brand new rad and even offered to meet me 1/2 way between where each of us live, which saved me a 30 min drive. I paid him the $50 without even trying to knock him down any further. Bad for him, good for me. I hope this radiator is the last one I have to put in this POS.

      Now, while the splash shield/air diverter piece is off the truck. I'm going to borrow my friends port-a-power and straighten my recovery hook brackets, so I can reinstall the hooks.
       
      Last edited: January 9, 2018
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    8. Lance P

      Lance P New Member

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      Howdy, getting ready to do the same on m,y 2001 ST. What parts (brand) did you go with? Trying to figure that out. Opinions about Moog very widely.
      Thanks
       
    9. swshawaii

      swshawaii Explorer Addict

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      If I had to guess, Moog's premium "Problem Solver" K or CK line is the aftermarket replacement choice for at least 50% of the posters here. The remainder are a mixed bag of various brands or relabeled products. Seems the biggest complaint with Moog parts are dry rotting dust boots that are not available separately. If you look at Moog's redesigned K8695T lower ball joints, they have done away with conventional outer boots. Regarding Moog's less expensive RK service grade line, IMO no better than most of the imported products out there. If you haven't seen the somewhat dated IFS upgrade thread, here it is.

      IFS Heavy Duty Upgrades!

      Moog Control Arms: CK, K, or RK? - Suspension.com
       
      Last edited: January 21, 2018
    10. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      I replaced a missing door latch bushing on my daughter's '00 Mountaineer with a turned-down peace of PEX. I also searched for an annoying squeak coming from the right side of her lift-gate. I checked and lubed everything on the hatch and rear window that moves, and even siliconed the weather strip. No joy still, squeaks the same. I don't know what else to do about it. If you push on the lift-gate in the area of the right tail light, I can hear something squeaking softly, but I can't figure out what it is. Drives me crazy!
       
    11. swshawaii

      swshawaii Explorer Addict

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      Phil, I know you said the squeaking noise seems to come from the right side latch, but did you check the lower pivot cups for grease? I also found "another" interior squeak from the plastic door scuff plates when the body flexes. Used E-6000 flexible glue where they join and the creaking is gone. Funny how you fix one noise, and another "quieter" one surfaces. LOL

      http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=114949

      BBB Industries - TSB's & Wiring Diagrams

      EDIT- Sorry, you were referring to a 2000 Mounty. Do they even have pivot hinge cups?
       
      Last edited: January 21, 2018
    12. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      No Steve, they don't. I found several things that squeaked and lubed them and when that didn't help, I lubed everything that makes contact when the hatch is in the closed position, all to no avail. I even tightened the bolts that hold the rear glass hinges in place, as one was quite loose, and even rubbed WD40 on the gas strut rods. It makes me think there's a crack or broken weld on the body, but I don't see anything. If I open the hatch and leave it sitting there w/out latching it completely, no squeaks.

      Edit:
      I just loosened the latch pins and moved them toward the rear as far as they will go. Now when I push on the right corner of the lift-gate I'm not hearing anything. A ride around the block will tell if this actually did any good.
       
      Last edited: January 21, 2018
    13. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      Update: I was in contact with the company I'd bought my 1st radiator from. I spend a month going back and forth with them regarding my radiator warranty. About the time I found a NIB radiator on CL for $50 (and bought it), I wrote the company and manufacturer a note complaining about their lousy customer service. That made me feel better. Then last week I got a call from the selling company, apologizing and telling me that they would either send me a new radiator, or refund me my full purchase price and that I could throw my old radiator away. I told them I'd already bought a new radiator, installed it and that I'd prefer the refund. I received their check on Friday. Nice surprise.

      So, I ended up with about $70 ahead. Just goes to show, a lot of times bitching helps, espically if you don't loose your cool.
       
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    14. Kjhadfield

      Kjhadfield Active Member

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      So I’ve been busy over the last couple weekends… to address the grinding from the front wheel

      Replaced both uca- moog premium
      Cam/chamber kit (I think that’s what it’s called)- rays had the max adjustments
      Both inner/outer tie rods w/boots- moog
      Both hub assembly’s- moog again lol

      Got the alignment today and it’s riding nice and straight

      A couple questions:
      1. I noticed oil leaking/puddled up on the pass inner tie rod- bad seal?
      2. Do you guys replace the axle nut every time you remove? I know it says to, torque to yield (and I did- but 25 a pop)
      3. I didn’t replace the lca, Yet, because I can’t find a place to rent that torsion tension tool? Any ideas

      I also noticed leaking but I’m not sure what exactly the parts called. On the pass side, had oil dripping from a black plug that’s in the block towards the back (rear tensioner?) also same side oil dripping from maybe an exhaust part. I’ll get pictures tomorrow. I also have smoking on the drivers side I assumed came from a valve cover leak that dripped on the exhaust causing smoke
       
    15. Tifoez & Lavinia

      Tifoez & Lavinia Active Member

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      Told the boss about the legal 5.0 v8 swap for our timing chain failed '02 4.0 ST, so he located a '98 donor.. Making plans to bring her home on Monday, will keep yall posted!!
      Screenshot_2018-02-03-18-35-03.png

      From what I've found on the 5.0 drivetrain, they can still run strong at 400k, so I plan to keep track of the fluids, using high mileage blends, baby the crap out of the build and keep an eye out for another v8 engine to start an overhaul on to have ready to swap if something would happen, or when it's ready and I have time to tackle that project..
      I'll also update with a build link..
      Stay safe yall!!
       
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    16. ptf18

      ptf18 Member

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      On my 02, the 4.0l V6 is leaking from the oil filter adapter housing. The leak get worse with the onset of cold weather and very short drives. Its been an "issue" Ive put off fixing....although I have the need parts (most) for over a year now. Fearful of breaking studs/bolts when I start removing the exhaust system to gain access to the adapter.
       
    17. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      Beautiful day today (and not raining for a change). I finally got around to spraying silicon into the back window channels on my '01 ST to see if that will prevent the window from "bouncing back" when it's going up. It sounded like it was laboring a bit when going up. So far so good.

      I also buttoned up the the splash guard/wind deflector thing under the truck, now that I replaced the radiator last month. Noticed the occasional coolant drip that runs down the lower rad hose is leaking a a bit worse, so there's probably a new t-stat housing in my future.

      I checked for pending TDC codes on my daughter's 2000 5.0L Mountaineer. She's been complaining that it seems to miss when climbing the hill near out house. Found P0300 - Multiple Random misfires. Time for a tune up. 75,000 miles on the Motorcraft Double Platinum's and what I believe are the original plug wires at 245,000 miles. This vehicle lives outside and it's been raining daily, wet and foggy in GA for the past 2 weeks +, so I'm sure the wires are arcing. The plugs are easy to change, routing the new wires is the PITA.
       
      Last edited: February 18, 2018 at 9:24 PM

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