Discussion in 'Modified 2011- 2018 Explorer Sport Tuning' started by ibmike, March 17, 2014.
New Westin Contour Bull Bar and Unity SAE clear fog lights (I live on the coast, they're needed).
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Now I have to remount the front plate.
When I had my front windows tinted to match the rear on my 2016 they said the stock rear tint was approximately 18%.
For anyone needing a rear bumper protector, they are $57.56 shipped if you use coupon code CMOTORS417 at checkout, here is a link, I ordered mine last night: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272622744003?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I believe you are correct. I had them do 20%, which is a verrry close match to the rears, but in bright daylight the rears are just a tad darker.
Whats interesting though is that from the outside they look almost identical with the rears being slightly darker, but from the inside the fronts look darker that the rears. Not sure if its because the aftermarket is a film on the glass and the rears are manufacturered with a tint. Anyone else notice this?
I've always done 35% on the fronts to stay legal, but after having an F150 with 35% it wasn't dark enough because of how much glass there is. the 20% on the explorer is definitely the proper shade for me, and I have no issues with visibility at night or with foul weather.
Nice guys, it's a pleasure to look at each page on this thread with so many different little mods that make a visual difference.
I carry a lot of stuff for the dogs, and they're with me part of every day. I got tired of having stuff floating around, or having an organizer tied to one of the tie downs at the back, so I built a cargo box. It's not the greatest craftsmanship, because I am not good at cutting long, straight lines. Sometimes short straight lines either.
I finished it yesterday. I built it out of 3/4" and 1/2" MDF, painted it black, and covered the top with black rubber runner from Lowe's. The same thing lines the drawers.
It's 44" x 40". I didn't want 44" long drawers, so I made them 24", and the 20" at the back has a hinged door, that will eventually have a lock. I fold the seat forward to access it. It's covered with my existing cargo/pet liner.
The white stuff is some Gorilla glue that squeezed out from under the rubber runner.
It looks a little beat already. This is actually the second attempt. The first one was way too big. This one is 5 1/2" tall. I took the first one apart, cut everything down, and put it back together.
I am planning to install laser jammers on front and back. Does anyone know in which part of the front grill would fit them the most, not to get too much noticed.
Lucky you and your dogs, they must be really happy having their own glove compartment space.
Wife and kids kept complaining that the passenger side "40" second row seat was hard to fold up. After reading as much as I could on a Flex forum (doesnt seem to be many issues on the Explorers) I decided to spray all the "coil" mechanisms on both "40" and "60" second row seats with white lithium grease. After closing the seats fairly hard numerous times I have success. My 12 year old can now fold the seats up all by herself whereas I could hardly do it before.
Spent yesterday morning installing H & R spring, then the afternoon in the alignment shop.
Looks like the 2nd row seats also have a cover.
Makes a difference, huh? Going to change he wheels?
I do plan on changing the wheels when I find the some I really really really like, then use the stockers as "winter wheels". One question for you; when you lowered yours did you adjust the headlights? I drove mine last night for a few minutes and noticed the lights seen just a bit high since the back end is lowered more than the front.
Not at all. The guys who installed my springs did a great job on them because the front has the exact same gap as the rear. 2" to be precise.
I understand that the front and rear has the same gap, but with the stock springs the front to rear gap was not the same. The rear end sat higher than the front end (when stock), I'm just very **** (or maybe a a$$whole) when it comes to my cars. The H & R springs lower the rear end more than the front to achieve the "level" look.
I spoke to my mechanic. He told me that he made some small modifications to my car so that the rear and front sit more evenly. Sorry I can't explain more but my auto skills are limited to filling up the tank and windshield washer fluid.
DMG632 is right. The stock ride height has a bigger fender gap at the rear (about 1" more than the front). The H&R springs lower the rear by a larger amount than the front to make the gaps even, which would change the angle of the headlights.
I'm guessing the reason the rear is normally higher is to compensate for extra passengers and/or cargo. With an even/level situation adding passengers and/or cargo would lower the back end and thus raise the level of the headlights.
Yup. That's where they typically ride. The other is partly an "if I need them to be back there" and partly just carpet protection from cargo.
@Livernois I'm about to order these. Can you hook me up with a better price
^^^^Gonna be a beast Noriega!!!
It's a treat for me for the Blackhawks going out the first round! LMAO!!! Dude, I can't wait.
Nicely done, my friend. You should offer your services to other dog/pet lovers!
Thanks. I'll need a lot more practice with a saw first! It's not terrible, but it definitely could be better. For having done it without a real plan though, I'm happy with the result. I'm glad I overestimated the amount of MDF I needed, because I ended up cutting every sheet. I have a lot left over that didn't quite fit anywhere.
Enough to make a dog house?