Discussion in 'Modified 2011- 2018 Explorer Sport Tuning' started by ibmike, March 17, 2014.
No need. I'll try it too
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Did a few things over the past month.
Then a week later this:
Also did a thermostat, 3bar MAP and NGK plugs last week. Forgot to take a picture though.
Don't see any pics. Just a bunch of these
Interesting. Must be where they're hosted at. They were showing up fine last night. He should get an Elite Explorers membership.
My Platinum got a mention in velgenwheels.com. This was right after I installed the wheels.
Just tried to get one. Failed 3 times.
I'm guessing you are referring to the Elite membership? If so you can use the "Contact Us" tab below or send a PM to Rick, the site Admin. I'd be more than happy to contact him if you wish. What kind of message do you get when attempting to join?
Got it this time. Wonder what the hiccup was. It was an error on PayPal's side.
What hood protector are you using? Do you like it?
- Took off grille (oh my god what a pain to get those headlight-side bolts off!)
- Installed a lit 9" LED Ford emblem for grille (it's a breaklight logo found on Ebay but I'll just hook up the low-light to the headlights or such)
- Installed the Feniex 600 WL (work light) bar (sides are 120 degrees, rest is 45, all white, no blinking or colors as I'm not a cop). To fit I had to cut about an inch on each side of the grille and behind on the car (all plastic). This does mean you lose 2 clips. One of mine was already gone anyway. Took 2 min with a Dremel.
- Re-plastidipped logo bar-section of grille as it was ugly first time around.
I haven't hooked up the lights yet as that's a longer process than I had time for last night. Here's a few pics of process and result.
Hole drilled for lit emblem as wire is right in the middle (for future reference, if you do this, drill the hole about 1 hole-size down from where I did it as I had to drill again, the wire is quite thick right at the logo so even "centered" you need a bit more space vertically)
Backside, it's all just (expensive) plastic...
Some careful placement later:
Unfortunately I didn't take many pics of installing the light bar or the brackets (after Dremel-ing off 1" on both sides of the grille), but essentially I put on the Feniex brackets on the light bar, put 3M tape on top of them, aligned it and stuck it on the bottom of the grille so that it "glued" itself in place, then removed the light from the brackets and screwed in 2 screws in the bracket holes into the plastic. All in all it's firmly in place. On the 2012 Explorer this was pretty much the only place it could go (could also go in bottom air intake hole but then the lights would be really low). I should add that the bar is really thin and not much air is being blocked as it has air space on both top and bottom even with it "blocking" the bottom hole.
Installed grille again (ouch, I really need to get a 10mm offset wrench for those bolts at the headlights). All wires packed up for now as I'll hook everything to the light controller module in cockpit. The lightbar sticks out slightly on the sides which was pretty much a non-option or the brackets would've been too far back and have no "grip" on the grille (or end up getting screwed into the very back of the plastic which isn't very stable). I suppose I could've re-drilled the bracket screw holes but to be honest it doesn't bother me, and that could be fixed later should I one day feel like it does matter . Another option would've been a shorter light bar, the 400 for example, then there's no plastic-alteration required.
Being a brakelight logo, does it light up red? If so, have you checked state law to make sure it's legal?
Yep it does. No I haven't yet as my state law is Switzerland, so I'll figure it out after I talk to someone official that knows (digging through law book is a nightmare). I'm anyway planning on relaying it to a button in the cockpit to be able to permanently keep it off or hook it to the parking lights so that it's only on before the car starts. If nothing else, it was cheaper than a fully black emblem on Ebay
OEM. Had it on for a year and it's still holding up well.
Sweet, glad you got it going. You should edit the post above where your pictures disappeared so that others can see the work you did.
Love the new avatar.
Had the entire hood, lights, bumper, and front roof covered in Xpel Ultimate film today by my friend Eric at TruShine. Just say NO to rock chips!!!
Expel is great. I got into a accident from a on coming car (one car ran a red light, T-boned another car and that car hit me at a 45 degree) the only damage was the expel got scratched and tore. The only down side was when they removed the Expel some paint came off, so it's at the body shop for a bumper re-spray.
If you don't mind, how much did you two pay for the Xpel? I'm just trying to see if the quotes I received were good or not (also, what parts did you have covered?)
$1150 OTD for full hood, lights, bumper, and front roof. This might be a little higher than most but he comes to me and does top notch work...
He also reapplied the Explorer hood badge but I'm going to order a black one and remove this gray one. I think the black will look better on my gray explorer.
I had EVERYTHING (including the fenders, mirrors and door cups) from the front door forward covered. If you draw a line down the drivers door and go forward it's covered.
I received quotes from $1200.00 to $1600.00 (all using Expel). In some cases if you tell them you will pay with $100.00 bills they will knock a hundred off or two off.
Be careful who you buy it from. I bought a black one and once applied, and the clear film was pulled off, it was all kinds of messed up. Then, removing it, I had to spend some quality time with a solvent to get the adhesive off. Whatever they used on it, it was meant to stay on until the world ends.
That is why I decided against the clear film protection, removing it almost always removes parts of your paint.
It's should not remove the paint if the paint was applied correctly. From Xpel:
"It is highly unlikely for paint protection film to harm OEM paint. Paint systems used on modern assembly lines today produce a minimum bond strength of 16 MPa and maximum of 25 MPa between the panel and the paint depending on color, iridescence and the system used. Our film’s bond to the painted surface at normal state (immediately following installation) is .0753 MPa. Even after years of heat and sun, the bond between the film and the paint increases to only 0.17 MPa. What that means is in the absolute worst case scenario, the bond of factory paint to the panel is over 94 times stronger than the bond of our film to the paint. In the best case, the paint is 332 times stronger.
That being said, it is still recommended to have a professional remove the film in accordance with our published guidelines."
Did they take aluminum hoods into consideration? Also note the statement quoted says "should not.."
When I had the Expel put on I asked the installer if it could remove paint when taking it off. He was up front and said it could happen, in fact it's happen to him twice... oops 3 times now with mine.
The area where the paint came off was on the plastic bumper (air scoop to the side of the clear lens) and this showed no damage to the Expel. This is a very thin edge and I wonder if the paint was thin in this area. It was removed by and Expel installer and not the body shop.
I made the choice, deal with rock chips or chance having paint come off when the Expel is removed. I will have the Expel installed on the bumper cover after the paint cures.