What did YOU do to your Explorer today? | Page 11 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

What did YOU do to your Explorer today?

Let there be light...........

2 100w and 3 55w to go with the 2 55w on the bumper. Night run tomorrow night, so good timing!!

CIMG0545%20Medium_zpseb71jpum.jpg


CIMG0542%20Medium_zpsozei6w7b.jpg
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Changed my front pads today with Raybestos SGD833C Ceramics. They were on sale for 12$ on Amazon!!
 






Replaced ujoints in my front driveline and front axle.
 






Bought a rear bumper from a recently found junkyard near my college. Ford didn't design these things to haul stuff that should be on the outside of the vehicle.
 






Removed my multifunction switch, repaired it and reinstall. now all blinkers and four ways work as they should, no more buzzing and intermittent operation.
Repaired wiring at trailer harness so my trailer lights would work.
 






Thought I'd removed the motor mount-to frame nut.....wrong. I removed a frame nut. Motor mount nut was higher up. I'm thinking my mounts are still good. 21 years old, but only 130k on em.
 






Finally got the replacement headlights on my '94 aligned. Had to take pliers to the vertical mounting screw to adjust the lights up. The 4mm hex alignment/adjustment didn't have enough vertical range. Sure makes a difference from the almost opaque originals! And now I won't have rain water inside the lens.
 












Sending unit

very minor job that took too long due to location,,replaced the coolant sending unit now I have a working temp gauge! Was able to remove wire clip that holds sending unit, wiggle the unit off,disconnect wire harness,,,some extra long needle nose pliers and long long hemostats came in handy,,manual calls for removing thermostat housing etc!
 






Finally got around to mounting some rear flood lights. I visit a lot of homes in a rural area and there's usually next to nothing for street lighting and each person's driveway is different. Now that the time change happened, it's common for me to venture out at night and backing up in the dark with only your tail lights illuminating things sucks. These should help and I wired them with 10GA wire so I can really beef it up later if these cheap 35-watt bulbs don't do what I need.

 






New Alternator

Replaced alternator in 93 XLT with a new 130 amp. The bearings were about shot in the old alternator.
 






I finished wiring the rear flood lights. Ended up re-doing some of the wiring for the roof flood lights as well. Got both front (4 elements @ 100-watt ea) & rear (2 35-watt elements) running on their own 10GA wire with fuses, relay sockets and switches all soldered together with thick double-wall glue heatshrink. The only non-soldered portions are the connections to the backs of the bulbs and the relays, so they can be replaced. I'm a stickler for wiring perfection and not having weak points that may fail in the future.

 






I finished wiring the rear flood lights. Ended up re-doing some of the wiring for the roof flood lights as well. Got both front (4 elements @ 100-watt ea) & rear (2 35-watt elements) running on their own 10GA wire with fuses, relay sockets and switches all soldered together with thick double-wall glue heatshrink. The only non-soldered portions are the connections to the backs of the bulbs and the relays, so they can be replaced. I'm a stickler for wiring perfection and not having weak points that may fail in the future.

Well I wouldn't leave that red wire coiled up like that if I were you then, it could fall off and get caught in something! :D
 






Well I wouldn't leave that red wire coiled up like that if I were you then, it could fall off and get caught in something! :D

I finished up the job after dark and didn't get a chance to get a picture of it all tidied up :)
 












I must have missed a post, what's the blue (cast iron?) piping and contraption do?

There's a link to more pictures in my signature but it's a coolant filter. Despite draining the system, pulling the engine and flipping it upside down (for other work), there was still crud in the cooling system. Some previous owner had dumped quite a bit of Bars Stop Leak in the system. Not wanting to spend a lot of time flushing the system and making a mess, I opted for the over-engineered option. It's more for diesel engines and those with a lot of casting debris left over but I figure it will last a long time and I can swap it over to another vehicle later. I don't think I ever did a write-up on it since there's not much demand/need. Plus, there's already a lot of info out there on diesel truck forums about it.

In addition to ridding my system of the Bars stuff, there's a quart more capacity, the ability to catch any crud that happens to break off and prevent it from clogging up the radiator and the ability to cut off the filter & heater core if I ever need to dump some Bars Stop Leak in or if the heater core starts leaking.

Again, it's WAY overkill but it was a fun project. Oddly enough, the filter was the most expensive piece. I got started on this project because I found a NOS filter housing kit on eBay for cheap and couldn't pass it up. The filter is a 4070 bypass unit that costs a whopping $16. Ouch.
 













Your intake tube *is* a lot different than my 94's. I never knew they changed between 91 and 94 until people were talking about it in the other thread.

Anyway, that coolant filter setup is neat. I would call that your flux capacitor.

Did you wire your rear floods to the reverse lights? Or did you install a switch?
 






Your intake tube *is* a lot different than my 94's. I never knew they changed between 91 and 94 until people were talking about it in the other thread.

Anyway, that coolant filter setup is neat. I would call that your flux capacitor.

Did you wire your rear floods to the reverse lights? Or did you install a switch?

Yea, I don't know if other vehicles go through this too but the 1991-1994 Explorers had a LOT of teething issues. The 1991's had some weird stuff, like that 3-piece intake tube. I'm tempted to swap my 1994's in it's place but it doesn't bug me much. I noticed on my 1994 too, there's an extra frame support up front. The name escapes me now but it's a 1/8" or 3/16" piece of steel about 6 inches wide that spans the width between the frame rails, welded to the frame on the bottom. There's also a lot of ducting/deflectors added up front to guide the air in and around the various coolers up front. I also noticed a dampener on the rear axle similar to the one that bolts to the back of the transfer case. Not to mention the fact that the 1991's were the only year with a barometric sensor.

Weird stuff.

Flux capacitor, I like that. I need to wrap the hoses in some space-age looking stuff and add some lights for the full effect :)

For the rear floods, I thought of wiring the relay to the reverse lights but I figured it would come in handy to have a manual switch. I also ran dedicated 10ga wire for both positive and negative. Overkill but I'd really rather not do it again and know that it's as good as it can be. I've had a chance to play with them a bit and the 35-watt bulbs are ok but I'll probably throw some 50-watters in when I get the chance.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





If I'm not mistaken, the difference is the battery is the other direction on newer models, allowing a straight tube.
 






Back
Top