What does blinking O/D OFF light mean???? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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What does blinking O/D OFF light mean????

Flashing O/D light diagnosis

I finally took my car to Ford because of the flashing O/D light and the periodic check engine light that would come on. My service advisor told me that because I changed my transmission fluid so late (42K) these problems occured. The codes they pulled of the computer in my car were that there was a slip about to happen. Bottom line, I need a whole new transmission. Do yourself a favor and don't delay in having this service done. It is supposed to be done at 30K something miles. This was a costly mistake.
 



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blinking o/d lights dont mean anything to me cause ive got a 91(overdrive is selected using the shifter not a button) but my freind has a 95. he had the same problem after playing in a little mud. i saw this thread and told him to reset his computer and it worked. i also told him it was most likely a temporary fix. about 2 days ago it started to hppen again(he thinks it was from driving around in the recent flood we had) we reset the computer but it did not fix it(now mind you he has lost overdrive completely) as i type he is checking his fluid(which he will only do if i make him) has any body else had this problem reaccure? i know its been about 6 months since the thread was last active. oh ya, i am going to make him change the trans. fluid and filter anyways since he has never done this before
 






Had that problem too about a year and a half ago, when i was on the beach, it started blinking, when i got home, i took it to the dealer, and they reset the computer. it didnt shift very smoothly when the light was blinking but after the comp. was reset, it shifted fine, and i havent had a problem since.
 






it shouldn't matter is u unhook both cables, once you unhook a battery cable the battery is disconected
 






OD Light flashing and what is the fix

I was wondering what the final outcome was from those who posted a similar problem. Did a simple fix like disconnecting the battery cables work long term, or was it a short term fix, and a complete transmission replacement was necessary????

When my OD light is flashing, i experience the rough down shifting from 2nd to 1st and the same going up from 1st to 2nd. Also that the torque converter is not locked when in OD. Help

Tom Smith
tom@amsmrp.com
 






SHOULD I GET A NEW TORQUE CONVERTOR??
My check engine light and my O/D lights are on. (O/D blinking). I'm getting a new tranny put it next week. It's been slipping between 2nd/3rd and it falls out of overdrive a lot. Took it to AAMCO, they said it's time for a new tranny.
Think i should go ahead and replace the torque convertor at the same time??

thanks,
plug

PS, it's a 96 Explorer, 4.0L, 4x4, 121,000 miles.
 






If AAMCO is going to rebuild an auto tranny without changing the torque converter, take it somewhere else. ANY time you rebuild an auto tranny you should ALWAYS change the torque converter. There is no sence in saving a few hundred bucks by having someone half-ass rebuild something, just to have it fail again in a short amount of time. Take it to a more reputable place.
 






sorry i should have been more specific with my last post. My fault. I'm actually purchasing an already rebuilt tranny from a place in Phoenix here. I'm having it put it at a local shop because i'm getting a good deal from a friend ($200 for the labor). Still sounds like your saying i should go ahead and buy the torque convertor and do them at the same time right? Anyone else have any thoughts on this?
 






You old converter probably has metal shavings and crud in it. If you want to bolt a new tranny up to a old converter, it's your call. They are cheap. I'd change it.
 






thanks for the info. Where do you recommend i purchase one at? Would checker Auto be OK? Or should i get one from Ford?? Anyone know the approx. price? i appreciate the info.
 






well i called about 5 or 6 places, cheapest price i found was $185 for a rebuilt one. The only other ones i found were at dealerships, they ranged $311-342 depending on core charge. Anyone else have thoughts on this?

thank you
plug
 






I had that problem on my 99 f150 and it was just the speed sensor in on the trans. My friend that is a ford mechanic replaced it and never had problems again it cost $100 i think. I hope my 04 X doesnt give me problems.
 






On any of the 4R or 5R series transmisions, the controls are electronic, not mechanical as in the older models. That means that the valve body is controlled by solenoids that are in turn controlled by the computer, and not just fluid pressure, engine vacuum and rpm's as in the past. If the computer thinks it has issues (which is just about every day on the 96 and up Fords) it will stick the tranny into "limp mode" where it has some basic drivability but is not working correctly. Any long term driving in limp mode will ultimately cost you a new tranny as it starts to overheat the forward sun gear and melt the nylon casing for the sprag - turning your tranny into a piece of junk.

Resetting the computer by disconecting the battery will work to reset all the codes, but if it comes back, you are going to want to figure out why it did this in the first place. Mine took a reset every week for about a year and then it was new tranny time... I got mine from Phoenix also - the new one works good.

Use Mercon V or better - use Lubeguard (see another tranny post on this forum for a couple of sites that are helpful). ALWAYS change the converter - failure to do that is foolishness on a par with using drain oil scavenged from buckets outside a shop in your engine... Also, get a flush kit for the cooler - they hold tons of gunk - and that is often one of the reasons for failure. In addition, it helps on these newer models to add an additional filter on the cooler line. Do a search - this topic has been discussed to death on this forum.

In addition, the 2-3 flare can be caused by two other things that do not necesesarily mean that you need a tranny rebuild. First, check the torque of the valve body bolts. They are usually loose. Use a GOOD inch-pound torque wrench (no pointer types or "I'll just feel it out" stuff here!) and carefully retourque the valve body bolts in the required sequence. If that does not solve the problem you may have blown the paper gasket between the valve body and the plate.

Adding a Transgo shift kit is also helpful and it will mostly eliminiate that hunting for a proper gear stuff that these trannys seem to do best.

Hope that helps someone...
 






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