Wheel Bearing spindle questions.

[Currency]

Will do, Thanks Maniak.

Since the Harbor Freight store finder says the closest store to me is around 70 miles in almost any direction, I cannot do get them myself.... But, a small mom and pop shop opened up in town recently that will get the stuff for me. Just have to give them a bit extra. Since I am returning to work I could have them pick them up along with the four wheel ball joint press.

Any opinions on them?
http://www.harborfreight.com/four-wheel-drive-ball-joint-service-kit-4065.html

They have another kit which comes with everything that one has minus the two socket looking things in front of the big C clamp thing. Same price as well. I figure I should buy the kit for $69 instead of shelling out $100 every time I change Ball joints to rent a kit. May take a month to get this stuff but its cheaper to have them drive up and get it when they are after a cargo van load of other things then for me to go get them.

I start back to work tomorrow, and will be off every weekend but don't want to get up in the early AM to make the trip when I work late second shift. 4 to 10. Around Thanksgiving I'll start working on the package cars before going into work in the hub at the times listed above. UPS gave me a part-time position this year since I proved my worthiness last Christmas shipping season.

 

[Albino 94LTD]

Will do, Thanks Maniak.

Since the Harbor Freight store finder says the closest store to me is around 70 miles in almost any direction, I cannot do get them myself.... But, a small mom and pop shop opened up in town recently that will get the stuff for me. Just have to give them a bit extra. Since I am returning to work I could have them pick them up along with the four wheel ball joint press.

Any opinions on them?
http://www.harborfreight.com/four-wheel-drive-ball-joint-service-kit-4065.html

They have another kit which comes with everything that one has minus the two socket looking things in front of the big C clamp thing. Same price as well. I figure I should buy the kit for $69 instead of shelling out $100 every time I change Ball joints to rent a kit. May take a month to get this stuff but its cheaper to have them drive up and get it when they are after a cargo van load of other things then for me to go get them.

I start back to work tomorrow, and will be off every weekend but don't want to get up in the early AM to make the trip when I work late second shift. 4 to 10. Around Thanksgiving I'll start working on the package cars before going into work in the hub at the times listed above. UPS gave me a part-time position this year since I proved my worthiness last Christmas shipping season.

I carry the 3 in 1 press in my rig and have used it many times for U joints and ball joints.

 

[Roadrunner777]

My life has been centered around one of those kits for the last 2 days (ball joint and universal replacement). The local Orielly's gave it to me as a free loaner. It worked great, but a little awkward to set up until you see how it all goes together. You will definitely want a 3' breaker bar and socket to match the drive screw.

 

[Currency]

Yeah I think the kit will be helpful for years to come.

Planning on replacing that spindle this weekend.


Completely unrelated question that could be placed in another thread but am about to go to sleep. Long day tomorrow.

What would cause my explorer to have a fairly decent vibration in it when I first start it?
It does not happen every single time, I thought it could be universals in the drive shaft but it even does it when in park. Gets worse when I put it in gear. Bad enough to make my already broken exhaust rattle even more.

 

[Roadrunner777]

Motor mounts, trans mount would be my first thought, telegraphing drivetrain vibration to the frame.

 

[DeRocha]

If you remotely suspect the U-joints to be bad then check them ASAP... Having one fail will not only be dangerous, but costly as it will surely FUBAR the drive shaft and mounting flanges..

 

[Currency]

I've crawled under it and pushed around. Did not notice any play in them. Of course didn't notice any in the driver side front either when it thumps when in four wheel.

Any other way to check them? They will mostly all be replaced come spring time. Figure the explorer will be in my garage getting the work done on the RA bracket. Will make my father mad if I don't do it in his garage to use the air tools, but I think its gonna be down for at least a month or so with everything I have planned for it.

U-Joints, cleaning hubs, tie rods, RA and brackets bushings, even thinking about the front axle pivot bushing, rear shocks, shackles, rust repair. Think I am forgetting something. May as well do it all at once and not mess around about it.

 

[Roadrunner777]

I had a front axle u-joint go bad, never knew it until I pulled the axle for other work and found out one joint had frozen in a near straight position. It looked completely ordinary from the outside (which is to say, rusted to heck but not visibly broken).

Here is a general list of front end parts to consider. I just completed this work, so it's still pretty clear in my mind:

1. U-Joints - Be forwarned, the front joints have an internal c-clip holding them that can be hard to see if you don't know it, and that clip must go to remove the u-joint. I ended up using a cut-off wheel to chop the old u-joint out.

2. Spindle Kit - Timken SBK4, replaces seal at axle/spindle, axle bearing in the spindle, and the associated seal.

3. Wheel Bearings - Timken SET37. The inner and outer wheel bearing are the same size/part. So, you will need 2 x SET37 per side.

I got the Timken stuff from rockauto.com

4. At this point, you will be VERY close to changing the ball joints, if you want to. Recommended part is Raybestos 500-1066 for upper, Raybestos 505-1145 for lower. These are the best heaviest ones I could find, and are practically the same part as McQuarry and Moog.

I got the ball joints on ebay, saved a few bucks... these are probably going to be special order parts wherever you go. Be prepared to pay about $50 EACH for them, or $200 on the 4 ball joints needed for the job.

5. Brake rotors and pads, if needed.

6. Other misc parts:

C clip for stub end of axle: Diffsonly.com, DS42768.

O-Ring for manual hub seal to brake rotor: Mcmaster 9464K114 (2 per order)

12pt 6mm 1/4-drive socket for ABS sensor: amazon.com, Westward 1EZU3

lower shock mount repair kit: Dorman #31001, stuff to make a 1/2" hole, I like to use a nylon insert locking nut instead of the regular nuts in the kit. I have had them come loose.

7. Time, patience, and care. If there is one thing I have learned in 35 years of working on stuff, it is this: Take your time, clean the parts as you go, stay organized. I clean and paint my parts. Is that obsessive? Probably so. But, I have the best looking wheel wells in town, not rusty at all anymore.

8. I could have used cheaper parts and spent (not saved, just spent) maybe 1/2 the cost of parts. I like parts made in the USA, and I don't like doing a job twice because of a cheap part. That means I spend the money on parts up front the first time.

There is a sticky thread on doing this work. Good Luck, and keep some band-aids handy.

 

[Currency]

2. Spindle Kit - Timken SBK4, replaces seal at axle/spindle, axle bearing in the spindle, and the associated seal.

3. Wheel Bearings - Timken SET37. The inner and outer wheel bearing are the same size/part. So, you will need 2 x SET37 per side.

Been dealing with some personal issues which were stressful and may have lead to my becoming sick, as a dog, again.

I am guessing I will need #2 to replace the spindle? When I pulled it from the other explorer I never noticed any seal.

Autozone does carry a Timken brand wheel bearings and needless to mention my explorer has been parked since Friday, bearing issues again. I may start work today but can borrow a ride, hate too since last time I did the crankshaft broke in the last borrowed ride, not my fault!!!!!!

I honestly do not think the (Shipping) season has kicked in enough that I will have to work tomorrow, either way have to call at 7:15am, doctors appointment again at 8:45, then if I do not have to work I should be able to get this hammered out properly if I can get the Timken locally.

Options are as follows: Autozone, Car Quest 15% discount, Advanced Auto, NAPA 33% discount, O'reilly discount is questionable. Think that is all of my options.

On another note, broke the inner passenger side door panel pull handle....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXPLORER-IN...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20b5e2e6fd

purchased from this guys before, was cheaper last time two years ago, but still free shipping and never had an issue before. tennessee auto sales. So I will certainly be purchasing that from him after I find a complete door panel with perhaps the broken pull handle :

 

[Roadrunner777]

That's correct, you need the spindle kit. It will include a steel backing plate and large seal, which actually go on the axle, not the spindle. It will also include a bearing and a small seal that go inside the spindle.

This is shown in pictures on this thread, step 10.

 

[Currency]

Thanks RoadRunner.

Autozone's website showed they had everything I needed last night. I get there, their inventory is even messed up showing they have four, Part # 4250, bearing seal for inner rotor. They had to get them shipped from another store. They also did not have the SBK4, spindle kit in stock, at no other local stores or their local hub.

So tomorrow around three, if I am not working, I should have all the parts. Already picked up the bearings, SET37, Timken wheel bearings and races.

(2) @$16.99 each $33.98 SET 37's
(1) @ $7.99 4250
(1) @ $14.99 SBK4

Total Price: $60.95

I will castrate myself before purchasing another Value Craft bearing.

 

[Roadrunner777]

I'm going in circles right now too. I did the bearing preset like everyone says, and the way I know, and have had to go back and tighten both sides after 2 days, and one side needs it again. If course, it is now dark and snowing after I get off work.

 

[Maniak]

With manual hubs, I preload the bearings, then put them slightly loose, then torque the outer nut as much as possible. I'm to the point that I don't even use the 4 pronged socket anymore as I can't get it tight enough. I just use a punch and a 3 lbs sledge. If I do it any other way they do come loose.

I'm running oversized tires (33") so I know that helps make then loose too.

~Mark

 

[Roadrunner777]

I'll be back in the hubs in the morning... Something is seating somewhere, it's new bearings in a new hub/rotor. Maybe the outer races are settling. Oh well. I have a big floor jack and an impact wrench, I can be in a hub in 5 minutes.

I might take off the calipers this time, just so I get the best possible feel. When I first saw this caliper setup, I really didn't know what to think, but it's really an excellent design, I think. I can have the caliper off in another 30 seconds. Tomorrow's high temp is 22F. I might drive around a little bit just to warm up the parts!

Update: (chuckles) got 'er done, snowing, wind chill to 4 degs F. Gloves, thick hoodie, cardboard on the ground, no biggie. I think this 15 inch/lb spec spooked me a little bit, I was afraid to over tighten, which, these are big beefy timken bearings, so I don't know why I am shy with the wrench. Plus, cold weather, thick grease, and I left the calipers on. So, a little bit of drag I guess is ok. Tightened it to where I really thought it should be, threw on the tire, it still spins freely. Time for a test drive.

Update: Drove last night and this morning, no noise, no smoke, wheel is still on. Looks like a done deal. On to the limited slip rebuild!

 

[Currency]

I got everything today. Going to attempt it all tomorrow. High of 48. About to search for details of the spindle kit. Not sure if it is detailed in the haynes manual or not. Had issues before trying to find anything about the spindle in there.

The spindle thing is the only part I have no clue about, already done everything else about four times.

 

[Currency]

With your basic shop tools, is there a way of pressing the bearing into the spindle without that tool? The one Ted is using here

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=218254

 

[DeRocha]

With your basic shop tools, is there a way of pressing the bearing into the spindle without that tool? The one Ted is using here

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=218254

Yes, I would use a large socket backwards so that the greatest contact area touches the roller bearing. Then just gently start tapping it in place..

 

[Roadrunner777]

About a month ago, someone posted how they modified a screwdriver to help punch out the old spindle bearing. Take a old cheap flat blade (longer is better), grind a curve in the end, and then bend the tip slightly. Hard to describe, but you will see the puzzle and the way to bend it up. It saved me a LOT of time and frustration.

 

[Currency]

I've not replied for a while but already done the replacement last night, was warm and I should be going to work next week. Ran into some issues.

I used a small pry bar to knock the spindle bearing out, then used a larger one to finish the job. The large one was not contacting the old bearing very well and was slipping off when I tapped it with the hammer. The smaller one I guess was contacting it better, but only had about 1/2 to 1/4 because I was tapping the old bearing out from the outside of the spindle in.

That little ABS cover type deal, is there on mine, but broken. Spindle came off of my explorer pretty easily. Faster than the junkyard replacement came off.

But..... When I was pulling the old seal of the axle to replace it, the one that rides up against the back of the spindle. The axle just continued sliding out. So I said WTH? and just pulled it out to make that process easier. I then shined my light in the TTB and seen some nasty crud. Reached in and pulled the old axle seal out because it was late and I had no replacement for it.

I'm guessing this is why the gear oil level in the front D35 is lower than my little finger can reach in to check the level? I seen no fluid when I had the axle out. I don't think this is suppose to happen? You can just pull the axles out in the front?

 

[Roadrunner777]

The driver's side I was able to pull out, I too discovered a broken seal at the differential, and leak from there if I try to fill it all the way up. I have checked through the fill hole and the gears are still coated nicely. I'm going to pull the diff in the spring time, new seals, and do the c-clip eliminator.

The passenger side you can get out if you undo the boot at the slip joint. The inner part will stay due to a c clip. If you do this, the outer axle needs to go back in the same position/rotation. You can match the U-joints up to do this.