Xeek's '91

my white 1991 explorer xlt 4wd. bought it 3/19/2010. first vehicle ive ever owned.


3.19.2010 - starting out

need to fix these

things ive done:

5.1.2010
new rearview

new cupholder

5.4.2010
new fogs

5.7.2010
new grill

5.8.2010
painted headlightdoors black

the starter also went out on me. truck is down for now



5.10.2010
out starter out. thanks jd

new starter

installed

5.13.2010
painted grille black

5.14.2010
brush guard/bull bar, also removed the valance. makes it look higher without it

5.17.2010
best addition ever, explorerforum plate frames and a sticker

5.18.2010

6.4.2010
clear turns/corners and amber bulbs

6.17.2010
replaced drivers door handle

6.22.2010
replaced engine coolant temperature sensor (cel)
replaced temperature sending unit so my guage works now (need it in this heat)



6.24.2010
new KKM intake

8.19.2010
train horns and flowmaster 50 suv kit(sounds a little to low but i still like it)

exhaust

train horns

^left compresser - right air valve

sound clip. does no justice, much better in person
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r44/xeeky/?action=view&current=DSCN1434.mp4



10.11.2010
cherrybomb glasspack 18"

11.07.2010
loud rattle i was hearing? heat sheild on top of the 2nd cat came off and wedged itself from falling.

also took the glasspack off, no muffler. pipe stops right before it would be at
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r44/xeeky/?action=view&current=nomuffler.mp4



11.14.2010
gave myself an oil change. mobil 1 synthetic, k&n filter



11.22.2010-11.23.2010
ive always had a bogging/no get up and go on a cold start. so i went ahead and tried this: http://ford40.com/sputtering.shtml

left it to soak all night, dried today. there was some dirt/dust on the filaments. put it back in today along with a new maf from a cobra.
not only was there no more bogging when cold, i didnt have the slow response/bog related to having my battery unplugged and it relearning itself either.

i reccomend doing this if you have probs and notice the maf filaments are dirty.

the new maf sensor:

and the painted area behine the grille:

i will be painting the grille, bull bar, front bumper, rear bumper all with bedliner.
and at some point paint along the sides of the truck following the top of the bumper line in bed liner



11.24.2010-11.28.2010
bed lined front bumper, rear bumper+rear sides, grill, and re-added wal-mart lights.
took off the hitch that was attached the the bumper also.

12.20.2010

01.22.11 - clearance lights. LED, 13 per light, 65 total. very bright.

3.27.2011
so after 3 months of the engine overhaul, its finally back in, finished, and fired up at 11.47pm! after fixing the inertia switch(oddly popped out), it fired right up, no problems!
link to build thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302553

video of its first start up




4.20.2011
2nd aux tranny cooler

pcv filter.

5.30.2011
'99 8.8, aussie, 3.73, soa

9.4.11
non ac box conversion

9.22.11
4" rough county lift and swap to 3.73 gears

10.1.11
f150 tow hook

10.9.11
15x8 creager soft 8s put on my 32x11.5 bfgs

10.16.11
class V tow hitch

12.31.11
drivers window motor damage. so nice to have a working window

1.7.12
f150 seats to bring it to 5.5" lift
project #1 completed.

4" + f150 seats + fa400 arm + unsettled suspension = this angle.

1.7.12

1.14.12

 

[unclemeat]

Yea, you need to reconnect the heater core. It is your back up radiator. And it will keep you warm when it is cold out.

 

[Xeek]

yea its back on. i forgot to change the blower motor tho from my old ac box, i found out this one makes a lot of noise lol
still gotta drive it and see if the thermostat leaks or not. cause part of the water neck is chipped right where the gasket sits. would suck to trash turdles nice paint if its the problem

 

[Xeek]

I've had this noise fr awhile and I'm pretty sure I've figured out what's doingit. It sounds like a sticky/squeaky shoe walking across a floor, every time the tire goes around. I'm pretty sure itscomingfrom the back. And its only when I hit the brakes at any speed

 

[Xeek]

smoke coming from vents is a sign of failing heater core right?

I just changed my coolant and reconnected the heat. Vents smell like antifreeze, I figured it was cause I just changed the coolant and spilled some.
Almost to work and a large blast of heat hits me and my vents start smoking.
Park at work and coolant is POURING from bottom of heater box. I could be from he hoses but I doubt it from the amout that came out. Close to a quart drained out

 

[Xeek]

ok so all of it is my heater core then.

whyd it fail so fast? it worked fine, didnt use it for 10 months, then boom as soon as i had it back on. could debris have gotten in the heat hose holes and clogged it causeing it to blow?i flushed it with water until it ran clear before i reconnected the hoses.
and why does it seem it poured out from inside the heater box and not from the hoses?

 

[Turdle]

The heater core is like a little radiator. When it leaks, it is usually at a seam from the tubes to the core, and it fills the heater box with water.

 

[Xeek]

ok, so it fills the box on the engine side? that makes sense why it gushed out. i was thinking to myself there was no way itd have come from the hoses, not that fast.

its almost fixed, had 20min during lunch to fix it, other 40 was spent in autozones stragely long line. just need to put the interior stuff back on and refill the radiator after work. im so glad my heater core is so easy to get to

 

[mr cribb]

I agree.... that is prob the easiest part to change on the 1st gen x's.

 

[Xeek]

all fixed. atleast my thermostat isnt leaking anymore, guess the old gasket was the problem. motorcraft > duracrap anyway


andddd. class 5 awesomeness. its got both receiver sizes

 

[Xeek]

yea!!

gonna get my hitch put on today hopefully also.

 

[explorinitup]

Damn that was quick. You just left the shop hahah

 

[Xeek]

If I had posted it from my phone it would have been up 2 hours ago lol

 

[Xeek]

Class 5! Hell yea

 

[Xeek]

cleaned and painted.

its welded up front(theres another weld on the other side of the frame), and bolted on the back

all done(added my EF plate frame after i took the pic)

 

[Xeek]

so if i wanted to put in a c4....
4x4 c4 from an 85+ 2.9L ranger/b ii, c5 bell, c5 torque converter.
stock starter and flexplate.
prob make it floor shift unless theres something i can buy now to use the column.

transfer case: keep the 1354(i saw someone 'said' it worked'), d20, d300??


all my info came from a thread 5 years old with dead pics. so i have no idea if anything has changed since then
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127088

 

[jd4242]

c4 does not come from the ranger just the c5 bell,flexplate and tq.any 74+ c4 will work
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/420202/1994-ford-explorer/page-6

 

[Xeek]

oh, i just saw 2.9 and figured ranger too.
best to find one mated to a d20 already?

 

[jd4242]

I would say just grab all of the c5 and rebuild with c4 parts

 

[Xeek]

looking online, pick-n-pull has 3 possible c4's in f100s. everything else would be 2wd for sure.
no c5 4x4s at all
its not like im gonna go buy one tomorrow tho anyway lol

 

[Xeek]

close call today. going 37mph down a road and a white beamer pulled out, not in front of me but under me and made my back tire climb up his bumper and rip his plate off.
i have 4 faded white stripes on my rear right tire now. and hes got a tiger striped bumper and no plate lol

thinking he was trying to leave before i even checked for damage(he just pulled into a parking lot around the corner), i sped up and made a u-turn and hopped the curb twice across 2 lanes. now i need an alignment lol