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Xeek's '91

my white 1991 explorer xlt 4wd. bought it 3/19/2010. first vehicle ive ever owned.


3.19.2010 - starting out
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need to fix these
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things ive done:

5.1.2010
new rearview
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new cupholder
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5.4.2010
new fogs
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5.7.2010
new grill
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5.8.2010
painted headlightdoors black
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the starter also went out on me. truck is down for now



5.10.2010
out starter out. thanks jd
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new starter
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installed
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5.13.2010
painted grille black
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5.14.2010
brush guard/bull bar, also removed the valance. makes it look higher without it
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5.17.2010
best addition ever, explorerforum plate frames and a sticker
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5.18.2010
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6.4.2010
clear turns/corners and amber bulbs
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6.17.2010
replaced drivers door handle
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6.22.2010
replaced engine coolant temperature sensor (cel)
replaced temperature sending unit so my guage works now (need it in this heat)



6.24.2010
new KKM intake
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8.19.2010
train horns and flowmaster 50 suv kit(sounds a little to low but i still like it)

exhaust
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train horns
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^left compresser - right air valve
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sound clip. does no justice, much better in person
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r44/xeeky/?action=view&current=DSCN1434.mp4



10.11.2010
cherrybomb glasspack 18"
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11.07.2010
loud rattle i was hearing? heat sheild on top of the 2nd cat came off and wedged itself from falling.

also took the glasspack off, no muffler. pipe stops right before it would be at
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r44/xeeky/?action=view&current=nomuffler.mp4



11.14.2010
gave myself an oil change. mobil 1 synthetic, k&n filter



11.22.2010-11.23.2010
ive always had a bogging/no get up and go on a cold start. so i went ahead and tried this: http://ford40.com/sputtering.shtml

left it to soak all night, dried today. there was some dirt/dust on the filaments. put it back in today along with a new maf from a cobra.
not only was there no more bogging when cold, i didnt have the slow response/bog related to having my battery unplugged and it relearning itself either.

i reccomend doing this if you have probs and notice the maf filaments are dirty.

the new maf sensor:
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and the painted area behine the grille:
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i will be painting the grille, bull bar, front bumper, rear bumper all with bedliner.
and at some point paint along the sides of the truck following the top of the bumper line in bed liner



11.24.2010-11.28.2010
bed lined front bumper, rear bumper+rear sides, grill, and re-added wal-mart lights.
took off the hitch that was attached the the bumper also.
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12.20.2010
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01.22.11 - clearance lights. LED, 13 per light, 65 total. very bright.
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3.27.2011
so after 3 months of the engine overhaul, its finally back in, finished, and fired up at 11.47pm! after fixing the inertia switch(oddly popped out), it fired right up, no problems!
link to build thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302553

video of its first start up




4.20.2011
2nd aux tranny cooler
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pcv filter.
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5.30.2011
'99 8.8, aussie, 3.73, soa
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9.4.11
non ac box conversion
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9.22.11
4" rough county lift and swap to 3.73 gears
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10.1.11
f150 tow hook
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10.9.11
15x8 creager soft 8s put on my 32x11.5 bfgs
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10.16.11
class V tow hitch
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12.31.11
drivers window motor damage. so nice to have a working window
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1.7.12
f150 seats to bring it to 5.5" lift
project #1 completed.
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4" + f150 seats + fa400 arm + unsettled suspension = this angle.
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1.7.12
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1.14.12
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what could be causing me to burn 1qt of oil so fast? i did an oil change on 10/3 and today i had to add another quart already. no leaks, coolant is fine.
i had to add a quart back on the gwnf trip also.

its never done it before, so i dont think its the engine work
 



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what could be causing me to burn 1qt of oil so fast? i did an oil change on 10/3 and today i had to add another quart already. no leaks, coolant is fine.
i had to add a quart back on the gwnf trip also.

its never done it before, so i dont think its the engine work

Improper break in....also you have put alot of miles on it sense then and you running high rpms and half was 4x4ing at high rpms..sure you don't have any leaks?also are you filling your filter up when you do an oil change or just filling the motor up checking it ,driving and not checking it again for a month?
 






True. And yes I fill the filter first. I add almost all of it from an 'oil change' jug.
I'm not 100% sure but I think I added oil on the nc trip also, cause I swear I had 2 extra qts, only had one now.
And yes I check it all the time. Wether I filled it or not in NC, I checked it atleast, and lost a quart since then.
I hope this damn tranny isn't screwing up my engine....
 






Without going back and reading through your engine build, did you re-ring your pistons?

Benjam
 






nice ex u got there!
 






Without going back and reading through your engine build, did you re-ring your pistons?

Benjam

He's prob asleep so ill answer,yes it was reringed on stock used pistons and the cylinders were not honed or bored
 






Did you guys put the rings on the right way? I'm not sure if it goes for the compression or wiper ring but I've been told if the oil ring goes on upside down you'll be burning a pretty good amount of oil.

Benjam
 






Did you guys put the rings on the right way? I'm not sure if it goes for the compression or wiper ring but I've been told if the oil ring goes on upside down you'll be burning a pretty good amount of oil.

Benjam

Yea. I just think it was improper break in and running high rpms all the time.we should have cleaned up the pistons a little better and honed the cylinders but don't understand why it would just now beginning to start burning oil.i know after a trip and hard 4x4 i lose or burn some oil but not a qt but again i don't run 3000+ rpms just on the trip there hahah
 






Yea new everything excep pistons and rods(new rings tho). Block had hatching in it still so I chose not to have any work done to it.

That makes sense. I take short 55-65mph trips on 264 in the mornings, city otherwise.
So burning oil on 100-200 mile trips at 65mph/3100rpm, just to 4x4 after...


Any tests I can perform to make sure I'm ok? Good directions on howto do the tests also please.

I may just throw a stock v8 in there. There's one on Craigslist... what auto tranny works best with it and a 1354?
 






How quick does it burn oil just around here when your not going on trips?i wouldn't really worry about it unless its start smoking and burning alot with normal driving.
 






Well I'm gonna check the level after lunch. And see how fast it goes down half a quart.

It is weird it didn't happen on our july trip, just tese lazt two.
I wasn't expectingit o go so low, glad the 'check oil' light works...

Oh its not al goibg into the pcv filter either. There's deff not a whole quart in there. Only 1/15th of aquart is in that
 






Well you figure it might catch half of what really is being sucked up.also at higher rpms you get more vaporization,if that's even a word and blow by.what type of oil are you using?
 












Motorcraft semi-syn. I think 5w-40. This is the third batch. Before I ran peak 10w-40 dino turds. 4 changes of it up to 700 miles. Then The semi-syn after, changed at 1200 and 2200. Engine is at 2600 now.
Using new fl1a filters each time.

Maybe try a different oil?
 






If the cylinders were not honed the rings probably did not break in and seal.:(

I would say that they wouldn't as the cylinders still looked very good but a good break in would be required.like i said from the start,spinning tires and high rpms and no exhaust is about the worst thing you can be doing for break in.but again it should have been burning oil like this from the start.how many miles do you have on it now?
 






I said 2600. Its actually more towards 2700 now.
For the first 1300 I took it easy, city drving on the blvd at 45-55.
After that was 264 at 55-70, and our trips with 4x4ing.

And yea, the block looked pretty good, hatching left in all cylinders. I'm pretty sure jd installed the rings right.

Ill keep on eye on it now for normal driving. Pcv filter was emptied when I added another quart. So ill see
 












Why are you changing your oil so often?that might be why also.if you don't use pure synthetic some impurities will burn out and some blow bye and vaporization will happen before it sustained a steady level.i would change about every 5000 at the minimum. The 3000 crap is a myth.most oils can go way past that before any break down happens.Google it.with part or full synthetic can go way longer 10000+ .this is all after break in of course
 









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Yea gotca.yea i wouldn't freak out yet see how it goes with this batch and reg driving.i lose about a qt maybe less every oil change,but i go about a year or so before change,8000+.Hell i have only done i think one or two oil changes on this build.but i use edge,full synthetic and I've used a qt but that's with all three trips but again those three trips are the only three times i really have driven it this year hahah:(
 






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