Xeek's '91

my white 1991 explorer xlt 4wd. bought it 3/19/2010. first vehicle ive ever owned.


3.19.2010 - starting out

need to fix these

things ive done:

5.1.2010
new rearview

new cupholder

5.4.2010
new fogs

5.7.2010
new grill

5.8.2010
painted headlightdoors black

the starter also went out on me. truck is down for now



5.10.2010
out starter out. thanks jd

new starter

installed

5.13.2010
painted grille black

5.14.2010
brush guard/bull bar, also removed the valance. makes it look higher without it

5.17.2010
best addition ever, explorerforum plate frames and a sticker

5.18.2010

6.4.2010
clear turns/corners and amber bulbs

6.17.2010
replaced drivers door handle

6.22.2010
replaced engine coolant temperature sensor (cel)
replaced temperature sending unit so my guage works now (need it in this heat)



6.24.2010
new KKM intake

8.19.2010
train horns and flowmaster 50 suv kit(sounds a little to low but i still like it)

exhaust

train horns

^left compresser - right air valve

sound clip. does no justice, much better in person
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r44/xeeky/?action=view&current=DSCN1434.mp4



10.11.2010
cherrybomb glasspack 18"

11.07.2010
loud rattle i was hearing? heat sheild on top of the 2nd cat came off and wedged itself from falling.

also took the glasspack off, no muffler. pipe stops right before it would be at
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r44/xeeky/?action=view&current=nomuffler.mp4



11.14.2010
gave myself an oil change. mobil 1 synthetic, k&n filter



11.22.2010-11.23.2010
ive always had a bogging/no get up and go on a cold start. so i went ahead and tried this: http://ford40.com/sputtering.shtml

left it to soak all night, dried today. there was some dirt/dust on the filaments. put it back in today along with a new maf from a cobra.
not only was there no more bogging when cold, i didnt have the slow response/bog related to having my battery unplugged and it relearning itself either.

i reccomend doing this if you have probs and notice the maf filaments are dirty.

the new maf sensor:

and the painted area behine the grille:

i will be painting the grille, bull bar, front bumper, rear bumper all with bedliner.
and at some point paint along the sides of the truck following the top of the bumper line in bed liner



11.24.2010-11.28.2010
bed lined front bumper, rear bumper+rear sides, grill, and re-added wal-mart lights.
took off the hitch that was attached the the bumper also.

12.20.2010

01.22.11 - clearance lights. LED, 13 per light, 65 total. very bright.

3.27.2011
so after 3 months of the engine overhaul, its finally back in, finished, and fired up at 11.47pm! after fixing the inertia switch(oddly popped out), it fired right up, no problems!
link to build thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302553

video of its first start up




4.20.2011
2nd aux tranny cooler

pcv filter.

5.30.2011
'99 8.8, aussie, 3.73, soa

9.4.11
non ac box conversion

9.22.11
4" rough county lift and swap to 3.73 gears

10.1.11
f150 tow hook

10.9.11
15x8 creager soft 8s put on my 32x11.5 bfgs

10.16.11
class V tow hitch

12.31.11
drivers window motor damage. so nice to have a working window

1.7.12
f150 seats to bring it to 5.5" lift
project #1 completed.

4" + f150 seats + fa400 arm + unsettled suspension = this angle.

1.7.12

1.14.12

 

[mr cribb]

The 3000 crap is a myth.most oils can go way past that before any break down happens.Google it.with part or full synthetic can go way longer 10000+ .this is all after break in of course

This is prob true... My wife's truck get 5k intervals on mobil 1 full syn.

My xploder likes oil changes right at 3k though. I have checked mine at 2500 and the oil looks just as good as when it went in, anything closer to or above 3k I lose a qt, but mine has had no engine work that I'm aware of.

I change mine at 3k intervals because I destroy my truck delivering pizzas as a side job so I can afford the $20 oil changes that often. Not that I "destroy it" per-say but you know what I mean by city driving stop n go is harder on an engine.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[Xeek]

lol. stay away from $20 oil changes. its a giant vat of crap.

so.... besides reporting back on my oil level after normal driving. what tests can i do?
im getting CEL 41 a lot more recently also

 

[mr cribb]

lol. stay away from $20 oil changes. its a giant vat of crap.

I only run motorcraft semi-syn in mine.... last time I got the 5qt jug at wally world was $17 something, and add the $3 something motorcraft filter is where I got my $20 (give or take on the change) oil changes.

I guess I should've been more clear... I don't skimp on oil changes... I've seen what cheap oil does to a motor.... I'll pass.

 

[jd4242]

What's code 41?yea it all depends on the type of oil also.yea if you look at some reports that have no affiliation with oil company's you will see crazy stats.its a way the big oil company's make money.with an national average of 12000 miles a year that 4 oil changes a year times every vehicle.that adds up to big money.my uncle that was a truck driver would ***** you out real quick about oil changes.he put thousands of miles on his trucks before oil changes and had no problem with motors.but again it all depends on alot ,here we don't have extreme temp changes high or real low and not real bad stop and go so.if it ain't smoking and not buying crazy amounts for no reason then i wouldn't even worry about it

 

[Xeek]

HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean (right side).
System was lean for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching) - Fuel control

and the hanyes book has another wording for it

 

[jd4242]

HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean (right side).
System was lean for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching) - Fuel control

and the hanyes book has another wording for it

Well that sounds like a vac leak.you ever change that filter or ever check vac or fuel psi? Could be where your oil is going if you have a vac leak

 

[Xeek]

what filter? and no and no.

 

[jd4242]

Fuel

 

[Xeek]

yes ive changed that. i made a few posts on it also, it was a PITA lol
links for vac and fuel gauges to buy. something i can mount to the wipers and watch while driving would be cool also

 

[Xeek]

now that im driving it again while the f350 is waiting on repairs ill be able to report on the oil issue.
and wheres my links for fuel pressure and vac gauges i can mount jd??

and, a possible tranny to buy. still would need the c5 stuff. but im still considering rebuilding the a4ld i have for less.
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/classifieds/showentry.php?e=1875&catid=7

 

[jd4242]

That's way to much go to a jy and grab a c5 and have it rebuilt with c4 internals or here
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/classifieds/showentry.php?e=1515&catid=7
and i can get it rebuild with a tq converter around 750 & would last you a lifetime

 

[jd4242]

That's way to much go to a jy and grab a c5 and have it rebuilt with c4 internals or here
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/classifieds/showentry.php?e=1515&catid=7
and i can get it rebuild with a tq converter around 750 & would last you a lifetime

 

[Xeek]

i think im just gonna stick with the a4ld tho. that od will be nice since its not trailered everywhere.
how much did they want to rebuild mine? slightly stronger then stock and a new tc

 

[jd4242]

Buy me a complete 2.** wutev 5 speed swap and you can have mine around 750 for any rebuild with tq

 

[Xeek]

im broke atm. my other truck needs $525 into it.
im debating trying to sell parts here and there off the exploder. wanna buy my carpet? lol

 

[jd4242]

Hahahaah yea i am too.that one thing is going to have to go in the closet till i can get ms and afford a tune.i also have to put a tyranny in the accord before i can start anything on my truck!!

 

[Xeek]

im hoping i can just get mine done in time for a sept/oct run a fishfoods. hoping i have half-doors by then. being both window motors are retarded, and need assistance going up and down and my whole door lock system is dead but the fuse is good.
any beach trips we make next year will be with the diesel.

 

[mr cribb]

being both window motors are retarded, and need assistance going up and down

sounds like my front motors.... I know mine is the bushings... just been too lazy to follow the thread and do it, but now mine are getting to the point of being highly annoying.... by that I mean I actually have to put a decent amount of pressure to make the windows go up or down, guess I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and replace the bushings.

the rear windows I just shimmy up from time to time so my seats don't get rained on(they've been dead since I did the electric door swap)

 

[Xeek]

my rears work perfectly. just the two front ones have the borken gears. the passenger one went out last week. when it rains its annoying to roll them up. back when it was just the drivers side i had to use vise grips to grab the window when it was raining. its hard to grip when its all wet lol

 

[Ronin8002]

now that im driving it again while the f350 is waiting on repairs ill be able to report on the oil issue.
and wheres my links for fuel pressure and vac gauges i can mount jd??

and, a possible tranny to buy. still would need the c5 stuff. but im still considering rebuilding the a4ld i have for less.
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/classifieds/showentry.php?e=1875&catid=7

PMd you about the guages...well I've got a fuel pressure one anyway plus a few others.