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Yet another no start/fuel pump question

Discussion in '2001-2005 Explorer Sport Trac' started by 429CJ-3X2, December 30, 2017.

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    1. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      If you've just replaced the fuel filter you can probably get away without having to replace it again as long as your fuel pump isn't disintegrating. Changing the fuel filter is never an easy job. There's always some wondering whether you'll be successful this time. Plus the 3-port filter is 33% harder to replace due to the extra port.
       
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    3. aj213121

      aj213121 Member

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      Did you figure out the problem? My truck suddenly stopped too and it took forever for me to figure out the problem (2 fuel pumps and filters).... finally figured out my inertia switch shorted out and everything has been working perfect since then
       
    4. 429CJ-3X2

      429CJ-3X2 Elite Explorer

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      Still waiting for the new fuel pump which won't get installed until Saturday. Until late last week it's been far too cold to even think about working on it. I'm confident the pump is the problem. When I changed the filter Saturday there was zero pressure in the line even though I tried to start it to move it. Inertia switch looks fine, but I realize that doesn't mean much.
       
    5. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      That is unusual, but it's good you figured it out. The inertia switches are very reliable, you'd have to hunt for ages to find 2-3 failures of those.
       
    6. decipha

      decipha Member

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      be mindful that a bunch of the cheaper ful pumps on ebay lack check valves so they bleed pressure as soon as the pump stops priming, its no problem really just causes an extended crank time until pressure ramps back up
       
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    7. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Good point, there are far more parts sources than there used to be. There are always brands I've never heard of when I search for parts. I avoid those.
       
    8. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      With the Bosch fuel pumps I've installed, starting is pretty much instantaneous. I hadn't used my 5.0 EB in 6-7 days. I got in it today and hit the key and it started instantly. I don't think the engine made more than 1/2 a revolution, so no problem there. Also, I could be wrong, but doesn't the FPR act as a check valve?
       
    9. ptf18

      ptf18 Active Member

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      Koda. The fuel filters I have on my 2002 S/T and 2002 Ranger have 3 ports. Never understood the reason for 3. In addition I've found that instead of using the Motorcraft FG1002 fuel Filter on my Ranger, I use the FG 1039 filter. The Port tubes/pipes/ connections are longer which makes the needed tools easier to "get behind" the weird Ford hose connection and insert said tool in order to disconnect the hoses.
       
    10. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      When I first went to change the fuel filter on my ST and saw the extra port I thought the pump was going to be different somehow. Turned out there was nothing unique about the pump and I couldn't figure out what the extra port did either. Weird. I even asked the forum about it an got no replies. It seems like it would return fuel to the tank, but as the pressure regulator is in the tank, why would this be needed and how could you maintain adaquate fuel pressure if it did?
       
    11. 429CJ-3X2

      429CJ-3X2 Elite Explorer

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      Believe it or not, I'm still waiting for the fuel pump to arrive. I ordered it on the 18th, it was shipped USPS Priority on the 20th, left Houston at midnight 1/20, and finally arrived in Des Moines at 9:30 last night (1/25). Big fail on USPS on this one! According to the tracking info, it's now at the Post Office, not the postal facility, so maybe it will get here today. I hope so. It's supposed to be 53 degrees today. Perfect day to get this finished.

      I really hadn't planned to install it until tomorrow because I "started" a new job this week with the same company I've been with the last 9 years and I didn't think I'd have time to work on my truck through the week. As it works out, it takes a long time to get cleared to work on site at a hospital, even though I won't be working for the hospital, just at it. I say "started" in quotes because what I'm really doing is getting paid to do some training at home. But since there's minimal training to do on my computer on my own, I'm really getting paid for doing nothing. It's not exactly like being on vacation because I am somewhat tied to my computer to clock in at 8:00, out for an hour lunch, and out at 5:00, and keep an eye on my company email, but otherwise I'm free to do as I please.
       
    12. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      Back in the late 90's I worked for a company that was being sold. I was offered the "golden parachute" and took it. The I ended up working for the company as an independent contractor for almost a year. I told them I wanted $100 an hour and they said okay (I would have done it for 1/2 that). Frankly, my expertise would have been worth it to them if they'd kept me busy, but anytime I had questions on the project they'd take at least a week to get me with the answers I needed to continue. I eventually told them that if they wanted to keep me working on their project as a priority I'd need to have a minimum of billable hours per week. Otherwise I'd take on other work. They agreed to this, so many days they paid me working on my classic cars, or for cutting my lawn. Eventually the project was cancelled and all the work I'd done was never even used. Nice for me while it lasted.
       
    13. 429CJ-3X2

      429CJ-3X2 Elite Explorer

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      The pump did arrive yesterday. I got the gas out of the tank, and everything loose except the evap line and the electrical connection at the tank before I had to come in and babysit my grandkids. The tank is loose and fuel pump is unbolted, but I did jack the tank back up enough to relieve pressure and kinks on the fuel line overnight.

      One additional problem came up - the nipple for the smaller hose from the tank to the fill opening broke off at the top by the fill door due to rust. I haven't looked at it too closely, but it appears there's enough nipple left, and maybe enough slack in the hose to put it back together IF I can get the broken nipple out of the hose. I assume this hose is just to let air out of the tank as gas goes in, and that it needs to be reconnected so the fuel cap seals it so fumes aren't constantly escaping the tank. I also assume HOW it's reconnected isn't terribly important as long as it is reconnected - i.e. I can splice and piece it together anyway I can. Am I correct in my assumptions?
       
    14. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      I believe you are correct in your assumption regarding the fuel vent hose. The metal part of the fill/vent pipe is available new, but is rather expensive. (Rock Auto $101.79). The most important thing is the hoses must seal to the nipples or you'll throw a CEL for an evap system vacuum leak.

      http://www.rockauto.com/info/22/FN1064_FRO_P04__ra_p.jpg

      Cheaper option on eBay:
      FUEL TANK FILLER NECK FNF-048 FITS 01 02 FORD EXPLORER SPORT TRAC 4.0L-V6 | eBay

      A thought... If you need more hose length, maybe you can cut the vent hose in a straight section and add a short length of copper pipe (3/4" IIRC) to make re-connection easier.
       
      Last edited: January 27, 2018
    15. 429CJ-3X2

      429CJ-3X2 Elite Explorer

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      Thanks, that's what I thought. Is the part pictured in the Rock Auto link for an ST or an Explorer? There's not nearly that much metal on my '01 ST. Both hoses connect to the metal just a few inches behind the filler door.
       
    16. 429CJ-3X2

      429CJ-3X2 Elite Explorer

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      Never mind. They connect just inside the frame, not at the filler door. That part is correct.
       
    17. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      I've edited my original response (please re-read). The metal part says it's for an '01 ST. It looks the same as mine looked, but I don't have a plastic fuel tank. I removed mine filler pipe when I dropped my tank (I don't remember why, I think it was because I had my inner fender off anyway) and my hoses didn't connect very close to the filler neck. Is it possible someone cut the pipes?
       
    18. 429CJ-3X2

      429CJ-3X2 Elite Explorer

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      I was correcting myself as you were responding. Adding a bit of copper pipe seems like a good idea.
       
    19. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      BTW - As far as disconnecting the evap line and pressure sensor plug from the tank...

      As I told you earlier, the evap line connector must be squeezed and pushed in before pulling on it to get the locking rings to release. It has these semi circular rings on each side that have to be warped to get them to release from the plastic port on the tank. I've managed to do this with my fingers or a pair of pliers, but I've also broken the plastic rings on occasion. This does not seem to be a big deal as the hose stays on the port pretty well w/out the locking rings, because it has a internal O-ring. I just clean the port and coat it with some dielectric grease.

      The electrical plug on the pressure sensor is your typical weather-tight electrical connector that requires a small screw driver to release a clip.

      Both of these things are a little hard to release because it's hard to see what you're doing and are working blind for the most part. Taking the electrical harness loose from the frame helps.
       
      Last edited: January 27, 2018
    20. 429CJ-3X2

      429CJ-3X2 Elite Explorer

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      You're a little late. Everything is back together except the fill and vent hoses. The evap line came off easily, but the electrical connector didn't, even after I figured out how it released. The tank strap was a royal pain to get bent back to the correct shape so I could get the bolt in. Should go ok now.

      Regarding the fill and vent tubes - I was digging around to find something in case I need to splice the vent tube, and discovered the metal piece you linked to above that came with the bed I swapped last summer. It's for an '02 and it's slightly different. The vent tube looks to be slightly smaller, at least on the end. It's a larger diameter on the end on the '01, but not the '02. The larger diameter section is what rusted off on my truck. The hose is entirely different too as it has a couple of tees with other hoses branching off it. Still could probably make the metal tubes work on the '01, but in my case the hose is the bigger problem if it's not long enough.
       
    21. 429CJ-3X2

      429CJ-3X2 Elite Explorer

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      IT RUNS! I will have to go back and cut the vent hose where it's a smaller diameter behind the rusted metal that's in it and splice a couple of inches in, but it works as is for now. It's just long enough now, but the diameter of the end of the hose is larger than the metal tube that's left. It's clamped on, but it's not a good fit.
       
    22. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      IDK if/how well it might work, but auto parts stores stock plastic adapters, which are usually used to heater hoses. There are sizes that may be 5/8" on one side and 3/4" in the other. The thing is, how would they stand up to gas fuels? There's probably something similar available at the hardware store in copper. I'd probably just buy a new filler neck and be done with it.
       
    23. 429CJ-3X2

      429CJ-3X2 Elite Explorer

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      I'm thinking to use a barbed brass fitting that's used to splice hoses. Might need 2.
       
    24. CDW6212R

      CDW6212R Hauls the mail. Elite Explorer

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      Good work. Now you'll think a fuel pump is no problem, for a few years, and then you'll forget some of the tricks you just learned.

      I'd replace the fuel fill part also, if it rusted some already, it might all need to go.
       
    25. 429CJ-3X2

      429CJ-3X2 Elite Explorer

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      After taking the truck on a test drive today, I can say with certainty this job should have been done long ago. It hasn't run or accelerated this strong in the nearly 4 years I've owned it. It felt slow and lazy before, but now feels impressive for an engine this size in a truck this heavy.

      Not sure I really learned many tricks on this job. All the things I expected to be a big problem, like rusted bolts, fuel lines at the filter, etc, went pretty well, and most of the little things that could possibly be a problem were huge, time consuming pains. I'm not going to replace the metal fill and vent tubes. If you look at the parts in the links koda provided you can see how the vent tube is a larger diameter at the very end. That is where it's rusted off. The rest looks ok. If I replaced everything that's rusty on this truck, I'd just swap the body and drivetrain to a rust-free chassis. Top side, the truck doesn't look rusty at all, aside from the lower seam on the driver's door, now that I've replaced the tailgate, but underneath is a different story. The body and mounts look good, but the frame and much of what's attached to it have a lot of rust.

      Thanks to everyone for the advice and encouragement!
       
    26. koda2000

      koda2000 Explorer Addict

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      Congrats!
       

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