Yet another no start/fuel pump question | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Yet another no start/fuel pump question

I've been experiencing some fuel issues with my 01 (160k miles) recently. At first I thought it was pump related, but I think it may be a cracked line in the tank because it runs perfectly most days and only seems to not start unless it's under 1/4 of a tank. Still testing that theory, and it's been too cold to drop the tank.

As for the Schraeder valve, it's located at the very back of the passenger fuel rail right at the firewall. Not the most fun to try to get a fuel pressure gauge onto.

With 160K, if you're going to drop the tank to check hoses, replace the pump too. In my experience they crap out between 175-200K. Some go sooner, some last longer, but with the amount of effort required to drop the tank, I'd put a new pump on it too. The Bosch 69128 pump kit comes with enough submersible hose to do both pieces, FI clamps, the pump, a jumper wire and a new pump insulator for under $45 w/free shipping on eBay. The only other things you need is a new fuel filter and strainer sock.

NEW Bosch Electric Fuel Pump 69128 Ford F-150 E-150 Contour Explorer 1988-2004 | eBay

s-l1600.jpg
 



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Thanks Koda! Sound advice for sure especially since I added a skid plate to guard the tank as well adding another obstacle. Where'd you get a new strainer sock? Just a generic one from the parts store?
 






I ordered a strainer kit on Amazon this evening. The kit has a variety of strainer socks in it. It's like $12.00
 






Thanks Koda! Sound advice for sure especially since I added a skid plate to guard the tank as well adding another obstacle. Where'd you get a new strainer sock? Just a generic one from the parts store?

I've installed 6 of the Bosch fuel pumps and they've all worked perfectly. I wouldn't buy any other brand. The strainer sock isn't that expensive, so you could buy it at any auto parts store. I usually order it off eBay at the same time I'm buying the pump. An Airtex FS199 works well and is the same size/shape as the OE strainer. I also buy Motorcraft filters off eBay. You can save a few bucks on the strainer and filter if you buy it on-line w/free shipping. Just search for the lowest price + shipping. Visually check your fuel filter. Most have one port in and one out. Mine had one of the 3 port filters, which are more expensive and harder to find. The only place that had it in stock was O'Reilly's (at around $18).

Example Airtex strainer (under $7.00):
s-l500.jpg

Example 3-port fuel filter (around $20):
s-l500.jpg


Example 2-port fuel filter (Motorcraft around $12)
s-l500.jpg
 






I've installed 6 of the Bosch fuel pumps and they've all worked perfectly. I wouldn't buy any other brand. The strainer sock isn't that expensive, so you could buy it at any auto parts store. I usually order it off eBay at the same time I'm buying the pump. An Airtex FS199 works well and is the same size/shape as the OE strainer. I also buy Motorcraft filters off eBay. You can save a few bucks on the strainer and filter if you buy it on-line w/free shipping. Just search for the lowest price + shipping. Visually check your fuel filter. Most have one port in and one out. Mine had one of the 3 port filters, which are more expensive and harder to find. The only place that had it in stock was O'Reilly's (at around $18).

Thanks again! I've got the 3 port filter and just replaced it last week thinking it might have been causing my issue. That was my 2nd time replacing the fuel filter on this truck and it makes me wonder what the heck they were thinking using that style of clips. It's never as simple as setting them with the tool and popping the line off.
 






Thanks again! I've got the 3 port filter and just replaced it last week thinking it might have been causing my issue. That was my 2nd time replacing the fuel filter on this truck and it makes me wonder what the heck they were thinking using that style of clips. It's never as simple as setting them with the tool and popping the line off.

If you've just replaced the fuel filter you can probably get away without having to replace it again as long as your fuel pump isn't disintegrating. Changing the fuel filter is never an easy job. There's always some wondering whether you'll be successful this time. Plus the 3-port filter is 33% harder to replace due to the extra port.
 






Did you figure out the problem? My truck suddenly stopped too and it took forever for me to figure out the problem (2 fuel pumps and filters).... finally figured out my inertia switch shorted out and everything has been working perfect since then
 






Still waiting for the new fuel pump which won't get installed until Saturday. Until late last week it's been far too cold to even think about working on it. I'm confident the pump is the problem. When I changed the filter Saturday there was zero pressure in the line even though I tried to start it to move it. Inertia switch looks fine, but I realize that doesn't mean much.
 






Did you figure out the problem? My truck suddenly stopped too and it took forever for me to figure out the problem (2 fuel pumps and filters).... finally figured out my inertia switch shorted out and everything has been working perfect since then

That is unusual, but it's good you figured it out. The inertia switches are very reliable, you'd have to hunt for ages to find 2-3 failures of those.
 






be mindful that a bunch of the cheaper ful pumps on ebay lack check valves so they bleed pressure as soon as the pump stops priming, its no problem really just causes an extended crank time until pressure ramps back up
 






Good point, there are far more parts sources than there used to be. There are always brands I've never heard of when I search for parts. I avoid those.
 






With the Bosch fuel pumps I've installed, starting is pretty much instantaneous. I hadn't used my 5.0 EB in 6-7 days. I got in it today and hit the key and it started instantly. I don't think the engine made more than 1/2 a revolution, so no problem there. Also, I could be wrong, but doesn't the FPR act as a check valve?
 






Koda. The fuel filters I have on my 2002 S/T and 2002 Ranger have 3 ports. Never understood the reason for 3. In addition I've found that instead of using the Motorcraft FG1002 fuel Filter on my Ranger, I use the FG 1039 filter. The Port tubes/pipes/ connections are longer which makes the needed tools easier to "get behind" the weird Ford hose connection and insert said tool in order to disconnect the hoses.
 






Koda. The fuel filters I have on my 2002 S/T and 2002 Ranger have 3 ports. Never understood the reason for 3. In addition I've found that instead of using the Motorcraft FG1002 fuel Filter on my Ranger, I use the FG 1039 filter. The Port tubes/pipes/ connections are longer which makes the needed tools easier to "get behind" the weird Ford hose connection and insert said tool in order to disconnect the hoses.

When I first went to change the fuel filter on my ST and saw the extra port I thought the pump was going to be different somehow. Turned out there was nothing unique about the pump and I couldn't figure out what the extra port did either. Weird. I even asked the forum about it an got no replies. It seems like it would return fuel to the tank, but as the pressure regulator is in the tank, why would this be needed and how could you maintain adaquate fuel pressure if it did?
 






Believe it or not, I'm still waiting for the fuel pump to arrive. I ordered it on the 18th, it was shipped USPS Priority on the 20th, left Houston at midnight 1/20, and finally arrived in Des Moines at 9:30 last night (1/25). Big fail on USPS on this one! According to the tracking info, it's now at the Post Office, not the postal facility, so maybe it will get here today. I hope so. It's supposed to be 53 degrees today. Perfect day to get this finished.

I really hadn't planned to install it until tomorrow because I "started" a new job this week with the same company I've been with the last 9 years and I didn't think I'd have time to work on my truck through the week. As it works out, it takes a long time to get cleared to work on site at a hospital, even though I won't be working for the hospital, just at it. I say "started" in quotes because what I'm really doing is getting paid to do some training at home. But since there's minimal training to do on my computer on my own, I'm really getting paid for doing nothing. It's not exactly like being on vacation because I am somewhat tied to my computer to clock in at 8:00, out for an hour lunch, and out at 5:00, and keep an eye on my company email, but otherwise I'm free to do as I please.
 






Back in the late 90's I worked for a company that was being sold. I was offered the "golden parachute" and took it. The I ended up working for the company as an independent contractor for almost a year. I told them I wanted $100 an hour and they said okay (I would have done it for 1/2 that). Frankly, my expertise would have been worth it to them if they'd kept me busy, but anytime I had questions on the project they'd take at least a week to get me with the answers I needed to continue. I eventually told them that if they wanted to keep me working on their project as a priority I'd need to have a minimum of billable hours per week. Otherwise I'd take on other work. They agreed to this, so many days they paid me working on my classic cars, or for cutting my lawn. Eventually the project was cancelled and all the work I'd done was never even used. Nice for me while it lasted.
 






The pump did arrive yesterday. I got the gas out of the tank, and everything loose except the evap line and the electrical connection at the tank before I had to come in and babysit my grandkids. The tank is loose and fuel pump is unbolted, but I did jack the tank back up enough to relieve pressure and kinks on the fuel line overnight.

One additional problem came up - the nipple for the smaller hose from the tank to the fill opening broke off at the top by the fill door due to rust. I haven't looked at it too closely, but it appears there's enough nipple left, and maybe enough slack in the hose to put it back together IF I can get the broken nipple out of the hose. I assume this hose is just to let air out of the tank as gas goes in, and that it needs to be reconnected so the fuel cap seals it so fumes aren't constantly escaping the tank. I also assume HOW it's reconnected isn't terribly important as long as it is reconnected - i.e. I can splice and piece it together anyway I can. Am I correct in my assumptions?
 






The pump did arrive yesterday. I got the gas out of the tank, and everything loose except the evap line and the electrical connection at the tank before I had to come in and babysit my grandkids. The tank is loose and fuel pump is unbolted, but I did jack the tank back up enough to relieve pressure and kinks on the fuel line overnight.

One additional problem came up - the nipple for the smaller hose from the tank to the fill opening broke off at the top by the fill door due to rust. I haven't looked at it too closely, but it appears there's enough nipple left, and maybe enough slack in the hose to put it back together IF I can get the broken nipple out of the hose. I assume this hose is just to let air out of the tank as gas goes in, and that it needs to be reconnected so the fuel cap seals it so fumes aren't constantly escaping the tank. I also assume HOW it's reconnected isn't terribly important as long as it is reconnected - i.e. I can splice and piece it together anyway I can. Am I correct in my assumptions?

I believe you are correct in your assumption regarding the fuel vent hose. The metal part of the fill/vent pipe is available new, but is rather expensive. (Rock Auto $101.79). The most important thing is the hoses must seal to the nipples or you'll throw a CEL for an evap system vacuum leak.

http://www.rockauto.com/info/22/FN1064_FRO_P04__ra_p.jpg

Cheaper option on eBay:
FUEL TANK FILLER NECK FNF-048 FITS 01 02 FORD EXPLORER SPORT TRAC 4.0L-V6 | eBay

A thought... If you need more hose length, maybe you can cut the vent hose in a straight section and add a short length of copper pipe (3/4" IIRC) to make re-connection easier.
 






Thanks, that's what I thought. Is the part pictured in the Rock Auto link for an ST or an Explorer? There's not nearly that much metal on my '01 ST. Both hoses connect to the metal just a few inches behind the filler door.
 



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Never mind. They connect just inside the frame, not at the filler door. That part is correct.
 






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