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Over the time I've owned my Explorer, I've come to depend on the expertise of the members here. The knowledge and willingness to assist other members in need of advise is truly a cut above. Alas, my Explorer had tipped the scale for repairs and is no longer with me. In exiting, I wish to extend...

Just to close this out. The frame rails were bent out at the bottom. Combination of sledge hammer and spreading the hitch's mount tabs I got it to sort of fit. Re drilled a frame hole and all is good and solid.

Well rats! I guess if this is going to be the standard, I've got a frame problem. How the heck can it be a full inch wider and still align with all the sundry mounts? Unless it's wider at the bottom than the top. Highly doubtful. Update: Frame rails are wider at the bottom than the top...

Tried mounting a CURT #13540 round tube class 3 to my 98 Eddie, 4.0SOHC, 4door, 2wd. No go. Hitch inside span is 41 and 1/8 inches whereas frame outer span is 42. Is the CURT actually wrong or is my frame whooper-jawed? Under vehicle looks good with no damage. Just wondering if this is unique...

Hitch Mount Too Narrow Tried mounting a CURT #13540 round tube class 3 to my 98 Eddie. No go. Hitch inside span is 41 and 1/8 inches whereas frame outer span is 42. Is the CURT actually wrong or is my frame whooper-jawed? Under vehicle looks good with no damage. Just wondering if this is...

RKE Fob Programming Issue Try disabling the autolamp feature prior to cycling the key. I had the same issue on a 98 Explorer. Wouldn't go into programming mode regardless of technique. I disabled autolamp and it went right into program mode. Configured three fobs and all work good.

You're absolutely right! Got to looking at it this morning and indeed it is the Key Presence switch. No that I know what it is, it goes on the list with ball joints, passenger door latch(s), rear wiper, and a bunch of other odds and ends. Thanks for the part number.

Door Open Chime Found this on a Ford Trucks forum after a bit of digging. Apologize in advance for failing to give the author proper credit. "First remove the screws on the bottom plastic cover on the steering wheel. When you remove the cover the lock cylinder housing is exposed. Turn the...

It's getting to be a bother. Lights off, ignition off, open door, DONG-DONG-DONG the lights on warning tone starts. Especially during the day. Stops when the door is closed or when I smack the steering column just right around the ignition switch. Heard once that there's something in the...

I've order three(3) rear wiper arms and they've all come up short (literally). Shaft to center of wiper ramp is 11.5" on my hatch and all the OEM replacements show up with the ramp arm at 10.5". Looks funky and allows the wiper to get stuck between the glass and metalwork. Can a few in the group...

Close out of Thread Long needle nose pliers did the trick. After moving the intake plenum and the throttle body, I had a clear shot to the clamps. Repositioned the lower clamp and shazam, stopped the leak. Sometimes its the simplest methods that work the best. Thanks for the tips.

SOHC? GL Sorry, I should've mentioned that it was a SOHC (important fact). I'll try that first. It was also mentioned in another post about removing the idler pulley to gain more space. Next stop is going to be Harbor frieght for some long needle nose pliers and a 17/16 inch wrench for the...

There's got to be an easier way. After a water pump replacement two months ago, developed a coolant leak from the top hose to the lower thermostat housing. I figure that there's two ways to get to this bugger. (1) Pull the water pump or (2) Yank out the thermostat housing. There's so much...