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i used a ranger flywheel and pressure plate, make a pilot from a copper bushing, and resized a disc from a mustang (im frugal, ok). it all fit together, went around the block, and the clutch master cyl went squishy. bled it out like 3 times and it still doesnt get pressure. its not setup like...

its an interesting event thats for sure. when i swapped the tstat in the 99 sohc i had it was an impromptu rush job in someone elses driveway, never had an issue. heat was great after the swap, before, it was crap. id almost try another t-stat if i had this situation

i keep hearing the pressure thing, but its typically 50psi tops. the replacement fpr my brother got for his b2 came with clamps. for brakes or something with real hydraulic pressure id agree, go with flare fittings, but on fuel lines ive seen plenty of fixes with hose clamps hold on just fine...

awesome, thank you, much appreciated! back into my dungeon...

cut the bad spot out, put a little hose and a couple clamps on it

sounds like a bad t-stat out of the box to me, or maybe it had somehow gotten alot of aie in the system. temp sensors like to be in the coolant to read the correct temp. did you drain the block when you changed the tstat?

these are electrical Armageddon... check your grounds, the ignition module, plugs, wires, etc. they also have 2 fuel pumps, one in tank, and then a pressure pump under the drivers floor attatched to the frame. if the pressure pump is bad itll likely barely run if at all. other things to check...

normaly there is a dipstick by the firewall on the passenger side that allows you check the transmission fluid level and condition. you can simply pull it out to check color and for foreign matter, to check level you need it warmed up and running on a level surface. id pull the radio out and see...

id check the fluid for burnt coloring, metal, anything strange. there is a temp sensor in the trans along with other things, its possible one of those are fulty preventing full engagement or even normal operation if the pcm thinks there is a problem. what are the "electrical ticks"? and is the...

even just the flywheel measurement would help. all im finding is numbers over 2" thinckness, doesnt seem right but ive never seen one so i wouldnt know

hello! does anyone happen to have a single mass clutch/flywheel setup hanging out they could measure for me? i have a dual mass setup, measures 4" from the crank mounting to the top of the pressure plate case/housing. im just curious to see what the single mass setup measures from the crank...

i got various clutch parts for a ranger for xmas, ill be drilling and grinding apart this weekend to see what i can put together as far as a viable setup thats not $800

great, looking to fwd to this on my 02 with 185k...

4x4? you may find a trans from a bronco or f150 pretty easily. you will need a tune to keep it running right, and probably need to do some cutting and welding to the crossmember and driveshaft(s) for fitment. check out ecomodders.com for tips and trick on aeromods, but carefull you dont...

i thought as much. oh well, i guess ill content my self to cleaning it up, im pretty sure it was considered a beater by the previous owner. it dirty and it could use some febreeze, seat covers, a stereo that has a working display, etc.

its relatively simple, should still be a write-up about it on here if you search for it. basicaly its a remote oil filter mount, but you splice it into the transmission cooler lines. before the cooler would be best so it catches stuff that could eventually clog the coolers. you just to make sure...

maybe there is corrosion in the battery cables further from the terminals. may need to replace the whole cable

the power break booster requires vacuum to operate so it goes to floor because engine vacuum is helping it. id check the brake fluid level and if its low theres a chance a seal on the master cyl failed and the fluid is leaking into the vacuum system thru the booster, possibly clogging other...

5% would be barely anything on 13mpg. id check brakes and wheel bearings, tire pressure, maybe check the trans fluid to see if its burnt indicating possible slippage. check the accessories too, bad bearings up front can drag on the engine, and if you have a lot going on electricaly (amp(s)...

its probly just a "coupler" or "hose". you can probly use a bit of heater hose or any oil safe hose/tubing if it needs replaced

if it were me id just have the differential done, maybe the rear wheel bearings, i think they literally have to pull every last bit out of the rear to get the differential out so the bearings would be right there to be replaced. my old explorer had 250kmi on it and never had a cv or universal...

probly have to bolt the trans up to mount the starter dont i? what a drag

trans is in the back, im just putting the flywheel only back in place. turns out the starter bolts need the trans or a couple nuts told it in. i have to spend tomorrow doing a heater core on my k-5 so i might get started tomorrow

figured it out, it looks like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-UP-Ford-Explorer-M5R4-4X2-5-Speed-Manual-Transmission-4-0L-/191709796358?hash=item2ca2cb5806:g:obcAAOSwDFNWFDxm&vxp=mtr i guess its a m5r4 then

you can see a pic of it here: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1011537988887748&set=a.1011537015554512.1073741827.100000946693261&type=3&theater