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september is tapping me out, my explorer pulled double duty and while my brothers car was down and its used up my gas budget already. before it gets cold out i'm going to hit it with a tune up, i know the thermostat is bad, and in the 90+degrees of summer i didnt feel it necesary to replace it...

its between the interior fuse block and the relay. the wire that energizes it to put power through

solved! we isolated this down to the signal wire for the EEC relay. turns out that thing also feeds power to the 2 coil packs. As it were, when the ball joint snapped off, the car dropped, and the drivers wheel came up farther than normal into the fender well. i suspect it came up and the rubber...

no alarm, we've had this sucker for 7 years and its was all stock.

maybe, its a 96 and there is no chip in the key. maybe something to do with the radio? its had an aftermarket unit for like 5 years so that doesnt make sense. i've got to keep up with my explorer so i'm turning this one over to dad tomorrow. at least you can smell gas when its cranking now, if...

the eec fires up and runs the fuel pump. truned the key and it still didnt fire. when my brother and i are home tonite weel check for spark when its darker. the check engine light came on in the run position this time, so that looks hopefull

what i was going to do is feed 12v to the signal side of the relay to trip it, that way the relay, fuse, and diode still do their thing. i'll go jumper the power lines in the relay socket and listen for the eec to prime the pump

there is 12v at the fuse, fuse is good. i'm going to run a wire from a 12v source to trip the relay and see if the eec will start the car. if so then something isnt telling the relay to trip, probably a wire since we replaced the ignition switch yesterday. we've swapped a few relays through so...

actually the relay sockey for power was 12 i think, but the command to activate the relay was 0. the 2 "hot in run or start" pins on the eec connector reaad .25v probly just finger volts tho

no check engine light when you turn the key to on. we just checked things with a voltmeter, there is 12v at the fuse on one side of the car, but the relay and diode on the other side arent getting anything, and the pins at the eec connector show a whopping .25v. all the grounds check out good...

i't looks like everything is normal when you first turn the key, but i'll double check that. i know the code reader comes up with "error", which makes me think the eec isnt powering up to show a code.

My brothers car: 1996 mercury gran marquis, it snapped a balljoint, still ran. came home on a flat bed, we did the balljoints... now it no starty. What can keep the EEC from getting power? we swapped fuses, relays, cleaned connections, even pulled a couple EECs this morning and tried those...

walk-throughs are always great but i agree the book is a requirement on any major job

got the atsg, i did the 2-3 flare fix a while back, once i saw the pan magnet i added the remote filter. i'll scrounge the yard for a 5r55e, there was like 12 explorers there last time i was looking for spindles. i'll look at the book again to see what specific tools i need to do the job. looks...

i've looked around for info on rebuilding the 5r55e and all i can find is the common shift issue with the 5r55e transmission, thanx to the fine people here i was able to complete that task (124Kmi) and save hundreds of dollars. my X is rolling over 207Kmi now and i know the transmission is...

what motor? not sure if the OHV and the SOHC had the same tranny. it may be a stuck torque converter clutch, if you can feel the shifts count them, if its a 4rXXX transmissiopn its shoulnd shift 3 times then it should feel like a 4th time when the clutch locks the torque converter up, and...

mines kinda grumbly sounding as well, i can feel a little knock in the steering wheel but other than that there is no deicsernable difference in handling. unless the decay was so gradual i didnt really notice. i'm going to replace the lower ball joints and front shock absorbers and if i still...

wow, nothing?

Browsing for a new exhaust kit since half of my CarX job fell off right after the muffler. I found a dual outlet kit for a 2001, i figure it'd work on my '99 since it all seems to be the same, but i wanted to get everyones input before i spend the $$$ on a kit that didnt actually fit...

is there an update on this after 6 years of use? i'm looking at ordering one on clearance but if its not going to do any good long term then i'm just going to replace my gasket and call it a day. its currently on clearance at...

knocked this out thursday, most of it anyways. turns out the wheel bearing nuts on the only 2wd explorer there was 27mm, good thing i had a big ole cresent wrench. most of the noise is gone, but some is still there, if its still there after the shocks are replaced then i'm going to chock it up...

thanks bob, off to to grab the right tools then down to the job.

maybe a little more info... anyone happen to know off hand what size socket is needed to remove the rotors from the front spindles? going to the local pull&pay to round up some spindles, and if the rotors are crap then i'm not going to pay for them. so i'll need to get them off to leave them behind.

cool thanks, that exactly the info i wanted.

I've got a bigger badder 4x4 truck for the winter so i'm thinking of dropping the 4x4 parts from my X to save gas since it wouldn't be pulling snow duty. also there's a clunk up front i cant find, so maybe if the parts are out the noise will go with them. as the title states, i want to know...