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You can take the starter out of the equation because you say it is turning over. My guess would be to look at the fuel supply. Be careful just letting the starter crank or you will be needing one. If you crank it over 6 times and it doesnt start turn the key off and try it again.

I went and got another switch today and tried both side latches in the rear and that didnt help any. They do twist out but there is one phillips screw to remove first. So far I have only wasted 20 dollars. I am going to have to go buy a door switch and start pulling them. I only hope there is...

Well I called a shop and I found out there is a part that fastens to the latch itself that depresses when the latch closes. I believe it called a door jar switch. In order to get to it you have to remove the door insides or the inside to the back hatch. Has anyone changed one before? The shop...

About a week ago I opened the back hatch and it wouldnt latch on the drivers side. I lubed the latch and got it to close but every now and again the warning lights would say "door ajar". If I got out and slammed it, it went off. Now all of a sudden it doesnt go off and the lights all stay on...

If the problem is not fixed, the check engine light will kick back on again....

I wanted to post this on here because a Ford technician was nice enough to give me this information. Here is what needs to be done to load all the parameters in your computer so your vehicle will pass inspection after your check engine light problem has been fixed. This will work for all...

Thx for the reply. I have an appt for an inspection tomorrow and was hoping that someone from Ford had leaked a shortcut, lol. All I can get for info is you have to drive a certain amt of miles at 55, so many under 40 and that stuff. I guess I will just keep driving....Sorry for the double post...

Does anyone know what the drive cycle is to clear the computer to get the vehicle inspected? I fixed the problem that kicked on the check engine light, and need to cycle it to get the light off to pass. Is there a shortcut?

Are you saying that you paid this guy $2600.00 or he wanted you to pay $2600.00? Where I live you can buy a used t-case for $300.00 with a 60 day warranty.

The intermediate band was the one that was in to far. It was 3/4 of a turn to far....Not very smart huh? I wont get a chance to do the epc for a couple days because of work. Hopefully I get this figured out before it craps. I have a 94 Lincoln and I was going to put it on the road today and...

Yes it is a lesson learned. I backed them off and it is fine now. Its amazing how sensitive the adjustments are. I would not have guessed a half turn would bind it up like that. I thought the emergency brake was on. What I dont understand is if reverse is on a seperate band. Why was reverse...

I went back out to adjust the bands again because I wanted to be sure I had them at the right specs. I thought for the heck of it why not try them at 1 1/2 instead of 2 turns out. To make a long story short, it feels like the brakes are on. It was worse in reverse. I only drove about ten feet...

Am I better off trying the EPC or the VB gasket next?

It drops down and breaks when I put it into low 2. I also think that it is shifting quicker after tightening the band a bit.

I have to run to the store. I will check it and let you know in about 10 minutes....Thx

There was resistance on both of them, but more so on the back one. What would that mean? Im still getting slip going into second gear. Would it hurt to tighten it a little more?

I adjusted the bands to one and three quarters turns out and I cant feel a difference. I also replaced the shift solonoid and no difference, lol. Am I right in assuming that the EPC would be next?

I am trying to get a grasp on this, lol. You guys are saying the front adjustment is for the overdrive, and the back nut is for the first and second shift in drive. Does that mean the back adjustment also controls reverse and drive? Also the nut towards the rear has the linkage half covering it...

I am wondering about something. I have the same tranny only mine was slipping badly. A mechanic told me to unhook the neg terminal on the battery, wait a few minutes and put it back on. I did and the slipping was gone. When certain codes flash I was told it puts the tranny into whats called "...

The lock nut was tight and it has been like that. I would assume that someone allready has tightened it before. Tommorrow I am going to take the nut off and clean the threads. Then I can use the torque wrench and see how far it has been screwed in. Are you saying the front adjustment is for...

Tonight I tried to adjust the band tighteners on the outside of the tranny. Both threads were rusted up a little so I didnt feel that I would get an accurate reading with the torque wrench. What would happen if I were to take the 3/4 nut right off the bolt and then thread the 5/16 bolt right out...

Glacier, I changed the shift solenoid and there is no difference. The mechanic at the ford garage has told me to tighten the adjusters for the bands a little bit and see if that makes a difference but I am leary to do that. Does that sound like something that you would try? I have noticed that...

I have to back off the gas to shift into second. You said yours was a band problem? I am hoping it is only a solonoid or gasket, lol....

I will tell him you said so, lol. He said they send him to school 2 times a year. Maybe I can ask him if ford has any other little tricks that people need to know about. As for AAMCO they can ###@##%$^%^%$$%$ themselves. When it came time to pay them the guy said " just put it towards what it...

Sorry I been away. Yes, I was getting very hard shifts. It was so bad that I almost left the damn thing to get rebuilt because it didnt act like it would get me 20 miles and home. Instead, after I got home I went to the Ford dealership and this guy told me to do this and it straightened out. He...