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Well... It turns out it was low too.... I put about 2 quarts of Mercon ATF. So far so good, but need to drive a bit more to see if it really fix it. Thanks!!

Thanks... I will look for the dipstick and check the level.... If low what kind of ATF to use? I'm guessing I need one of those funnels with a hose...

I'm gonna piggyback on this thread since I have similar symptoms (posted originally in: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=248944 ): The truck seems to shift without problems once it gets moving. However, sometimes it doesn't want to start moving. What I mean is that: from a...

Hi there, I think I have a very specific problem... The truck seems to shift without problems once it gets moving. However, sometimes it doesn't want to start moving. What I mean is that: from a stopped situation I put the lever on "D", step on the gas, and the truck behaves like in Neutral -...

Yes... I did. I mentioned earlier too. Funny thing both remotes stop working the same day. I changed the batteries (CR2032 $4 @ Target), and it worked again for a few days. Then it stop working again, so this time I slightly bent the battery prongs to really press the battery against the little...

Good! That was the whole point. To help ppl, not just to follow exactly the detailed steps, but to also empower them to use it in their own application (different year/alarm system) Glad it worked out for you too!! Yes... that's a relay included in the kit to be used as a "Starter Killer"...

Cool.... I'm glad it went well! Yes cutting the first wire takes some determination, but if carefully place the connectors it's easily reversable. I'll be happy if it makes it to useful threads.... Btw.... Any improvement suggestion for the writeup?

BTW are you still confused about the e-brake thing? Hopefully this clarifies it... e-brake (AKA "parking brake") should have a sensor with a factory wire connected to it. Normally, this sensor-wire will light up the BRAKE light on you panel if you start driving with the parking brake set...

Similar thing happened to me... I left the dome lights on... curiously, if you leave the dome light on and arm the alarm... in a few secs the thing will beep warning you of the light on.... I didn't know and ignore it.... however it doesn't do it for the headlights (on my list)... Thanks for...

Well it took me about 9hrs too... a whole weekend... and I didn't clean it up until the next weekend.... so you didn't do so bad. Of course if you had to do it again, I'm sure you could finish in a couple hrs...

I know! Isn't keyless entry the greatest!!! Not as "cool" as rs since everybody else has it, but by far the most practical and useful feature!

Ohh and remember to hook the Neutral wire to the e-brake.... it was ok to ground it for now as a test, but it should have some kinda of safety thing hook up to it... in this case (stick shift) hook it to the e-brake sensor.

Good! Glad to hear that. The siren is apiece of cake (Ill try to post a pic) The hood pin can wait a bit... Just focus on the clutch... And let us know how you do it. I'd try to just bypass it for the rs only, and keep in place for regular key starting.

ok... so it's one of the safety things not working: Check your netural wire (just ground it for now) Check your tach wire Let us know

well the RS is going to be challenging in your case.... but the doors should be straight forward. Try disconnecting the harness with the RS.... and concentrate on the doors harness and the triggers harness ( verify every connection)

Look carefully at the diagrams... I used the Yellow one for the Remote Start wires, So YES you can use it for that... but for the door wires (again look at the diagram/instructions on the writeup for details) I used a wire directly from the battery

well.... yes a manual trans will need to treated carefully. I don't think there is a "Neutral" wire. It's possible though. I read in another forum (the12volt?... other car) about people hooking this wire to the e-brake wire.... others installing some sort of pin switch to the shift stick...

Yes... the info about the window wires is from the 12volt.com ... but honestly, I couldn't find them.... so if you get the windows to work, please re-post the wire colors and their locations.... just to be on the safe side... ;) 40 switches!! :eek: .... I already order mine.... Thanks for...

My guess is that the window wire for the driver door is going to be inside the door only... why would it go outside, and then back in... but that's just my 2c.. :p: Please do post wire color codes need when you know... Keep up the good work guys!

Yup... you should be good to go. I think I used only 4 pairs of the snap connectors (for the doors lock/unlock only) But having extra is always good. EDIT: I think I used about 5 of the 10ga "squeeze-connectors"... I see only 4 on your pic... you might need more. Thanks for the pic.... I'll...

Yes... when pin up => ground. That's just what's needed. If you look a the diagram in the writeup... you can see on harness 8P: "Grey (-) Hood pin switch input" what's so funny?... doesn't it sound like that... :D lol

Yes, look at the pictures on the writeup.... there is one with a "firewall passage" location pointed out.

Hopefully, this clarifies it.... There is one called "hood wire" and another one "siren wire"... both wires should go into the engine bay. Siren-wire connects to the + wire on the siren, which should be placed in the engine bay. And this wire makes the siren go WoooooohhhWoooohhh! :D with any...

First of all... the hood wire is not necessary, just a preventive feature. Second, even if you find the hood light wires on you hood, they will not be really useful, since they are hot all the time. You might use a manual switch... but at that point you can just switch it from any ground...

Hmm.. I got an iPhone 3G too, and I see the full site on my phone browser... so from my end, is there anything I can do to get the mobile version? Easier said than done, but some sites have one url for regular version and another for mobile... depending on what you visit you get the version...