96 Explorer Amp Bypass Question

I did a search for "amp bypass" and ended up more confused than when I started. I have a 96 Explorer with the mid-level sound system (not JBL, but with the amp in the rear quarter panel. The factory head unit had 2 jumpers, one for power and illumination, and the second for the sound output. In the passenger side kick panel there are 2 sets of jumpers. one which takes the signal from the head unit to the amp, and another which returns from the amp to be distributed to the factory speakers.

I bought a new Alpine head unit and an installation kit which included 2 jumpers which correspond to the 2 jumpers in the dash. I asked the guy at the A/V shop if this was the amp bypass and he said it was. However, I don't think this is an amp bypass. If I understand correctly, this setup is the exact same as the factory setup, since the signal must still pass through the amp. All the threads I read on the forum said that instalation of the amp bypass involved accessing the amp, which I did not have to do.

Now this is where I am confused. Since the new head unit will have the same set up as the factory head unit if I use this set of jumpers, do I still need to bypass the amp? Under what conditions would I actuallt have to bypass the amp?

Thanks

I bought a Metra kit...the bypass did not fit at all...My 98' exploder's amp has a small connecter and a big one...I called Metra customer service and they said they have NEVER heard of this. So I had to get a wiring diagram from an old friend(installer) and cut the factory amp plugs off and splice them together.

This is the amp bypass harness that Crutchfield recommends. I took a look at the wires in my Explorer to see where it would match up. There is a small black jumper that connects to the back of the factory head unit, which carries the signal to the passenger side kick panel (grey jumper) and then to the amp input (small black jumper). The amp output (large black jumper) then returns to the passenger side kick panel (black jumper), and amplified signal for LF, RF, and RR is distributed to the speakers. However, the Left Rear signal appears to go back to the gray jumper to be distributed.

This is what I found:

From factory head unit

lt blue/pink
green/red
purple/-
tan/-
green/black
orange/black
gray/-
white/orange (LF-)
green/- (LF+)
brown/- (RF-)
white/red (RF+)
yellow/- (LR-)
lt blue/black (LR+)
lt blue/- (RR-)
purple/white (RR+)

From kick panel (gray jumper) to amp input (small black jumper)

white/orange (LF-)
green/- (LF+)
brown/- (RF-)
white/red (RF+)
yellow/- (LR-)
lt blue/black (LR+)
lt blue/- (RR-)
purple/white (RR+)
black/shielding wire

From amp output (large black jumper) to kick panel

these wires go to BLACK jumper in kick panel
orange/lt green (?LF+)
lt blue/white (?LF-)
white/green (?RF+)
green/orange (?RF-)
orange/red (?RR+)
brown/pink (?RR-)
black/green (thick)

these wires go to GRAY jumper in kick panel
gray/blue (?LR+)
tan/yellow (?LR-)
green/gray (thick)
blue/-

Crutchfield's amp bypass harness connects head unit to amp output (large black jumper), which distributes to speakers

(bypass color) – (amp output color) – (function according to Crutchfield)

white – orange/lt green – LF+
white/black – lt blue/white – LF-
green – grey/blue – LR+
green/black – tan/yellow – LR-
gray – white/green – RF+
gray/black – green/orange – RF-
violet – orange/red – RR+
violet/black – brown/pink – RR-

Three wires on the amp output do not connect to another wire on the bypass harness. I assume these are the power wires for the amp.
black/green (thick)
green/gray (thick)
blue/-

I have a similiar problem! My factory amp in my 96 Explorer fizzed out. For now I just want to bypass it so that my rear sub will atleast have sound. The other 4 speakers still work. How do I go about doing this?

SSG437 said:

I have a similiar problem! My factory amp in my 96 Explorer fizzed out. For now I just want to bypass it so that my rear sub will atleast have sound. The other 4 speakers still work. How do I go about doing this?

Click to expand...

Uh you can't power a sub if you bypass the amp...

How do I know if I have an amp? I know that sounds crazy to some of the Explorer experts but my 2000 Explorer sport had a T100 type of radio sitting in the back seat when I bought it. The T100 has an amp built into the radio. I can connect it and it will play music but no display or CD. A local junk yard friend gave me a P100 type of radio for free. I connected it using wire harness mods using diagrams that I got from this site but cannot get a lot of sound out of it? Should I take apart the passenger rear panel and search for an amp? What should I do? Please help.

From other posts I have read the 98+ had the amp in the radio? Hopefully someone can confirm this as well.

Thanks grnmachine. After reading post after post I found out the hard way. I bought an older/new radio and had no amp. Then I had to purchase an amp... Oh well life goes on. Stereo sounds great. Now I'm searching for a sub amp.
Thanks for the help.

OR you can just use your brain and cut and splice the wires to bypass the amp according to the nice description above from BlameCandida Instead of paying $20 for a bypass thingy. Took me 10 minutes.


From kick panel (gray jumper) to amp input (smallblack jumper)

white/orange (LF-)
green/- (LF+)
brown/- (RF-)
white/red (RF+)
yellow/- (LR-)
lt blue/black (LR+)
lt blue/- (RR-)
purple/white (RR+)
black naked /shieldingwire


From the black connector (from amp)
orange/lt green – LF+
lt blue/white – LF-
grey/blue – LR+
tan/yellow – LR-
white/green – RF+
green/orange – RF-
orange/red – RR+
– brown/pink – RR-

Three wires on the amp output do not connect to another wire on the black harness. these are the power wires for the amp. black/green (thick) yellow(thick) blue

Anytime Kegler, and welcome to the site!

TheGaginator said:

OR you can just use your brain and cut and splice the wires to bypass the amp according to the nice description above from BlameCandida Instead of paying $20 for a bypass thingy. Took me 10 minutes.

Click to expand...

I agree with this, its actually what I need to do today. I installed a radio in my 96 without taking the factory amp out and it still sounds good, it's just is way louder at volume 1 than it needs to be lol. And it'll probably sound better with the factory amp out anyway