instument clu8ster swap

yonu said:

question if i solder the jumper on the oil pressure gauge will it work til I can get the new sending unit?

The depressing thing is that alldata doesn't even list the cluster connector diagram until the 93 model

Click to expand...

At home I have the 93 Ranger service manual on CD... it has all the wiring diagrams and connector function listings. The listings in post #9 are transcribed from that manual. I also have my original notes, my lists of the prior pin function vs the new pin functions, in other words, which wires I had to switch from where to where.

It is probably not a good idea to apply the resistor jumper without the proper sending unit. If you do, the gauge will pin at full scale. This may or may not damage the gauge but why take the chance. You can put the jumper in but then disconnect the wire from the sender unit until you can replace it. This will leave you without an oil pressure gauge but it should only be temporary and there's no chance of damaging the gauge.

The following link might not work, but if it does, this is the page from NAPA with the sender I used. It is a NAPA MPEOP6091SB, price $9.69.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=MPE&PartNumber=OP6091SB&Description=Oil+Pressure+Gauge+Switch

ok I will just wait to mod the gauge til I get the sending unit

and whenever you get a chance toi send the changes if fine I am not in any big rush as my dash will be disassembled for like the next 2 weeks even it I get this done tomorrow LOL

yonu said:

ok I will just wait to mod the gauge til I get the sending unit

and whenever you get a chance toi send the changes if fine I am not in any big rush as my dash will be disassembled for like the next 2 weeks even it I get this done tomorrow LOL

Click to expand...

I have resurrected that mod document and posted it here:

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER SWAP

This document reflects what I did, your truck may be a little different. Test and verify your work before powering it up.

Thank you very much

it worked great thanks

I have 1 question you say remove pin 9 for a 4 cyl is this a must as I left it in place and the tach seems to work is there a reason for it being removed?

Thanks,
yonu

yonu said:

it worked great thanks

I have 1 question you say remove pin 9 for a 4 cyl is this a must as I left it in place and the tach seems to work is there a reason for it being removed?

Thanks,
yonu

Click to expand...

I am not absolutely certain on this point. The way I understand it, that wire is a "cylinder select". For a four cylinder and an eight cylinder that line is left disconnected to tell the tach to count the pulses differently. Fours and eights have a similar count, just double for an eight. See page 9 of the document.

I guess the rule of thumb here is, if it's working, don't mess with it. Maybe you can find another way to check your RPMs to verify what the tach is telling you. When I installed mine I did the math with my gear ratios, rear end ratio, and tire diameter to come up with a list of RPMs at various speeds. Everything checked out.

Here is an online calculator to do just that:

http://www.car-videos.net/tools/speedrpm.asp

And there are others, Google "rpm speed calculator"

I have an old fashion volt and tach meter I will just throw on the motor and see if they agree

Thanks again,
yonu