Just got done replacing fuel pump and filter, thanks to everyone who posted here. It was "easy" after getting all the info beforehand. I just want to share some of my experience here, sorry I did not take any pics.
(1996 Explorer XLT 4 door 4.0l v6)
1) Took advice here and bought air hammer with set of 8 chisels from Harbor Freight for $12.99 (they actually have a plastic one for $2.59 on their website but it wasn't at my store, and others for $9.99. I guess the one I got was their deluxe model!). The "V" shaped chisel worked best for cutting through the floor panel.
2) Bought 4 piece aluminum fuel line disconnect set 96834-2VGA from Harbor Freight for $12.99 to get fuel lines off of filter and pump. I needed the 5/16" and 3/8".
3) Rented air compressor for 4 hours from Home Depot for $20.00.
4) Bought fuel pump E2059MN and in line Motorcraft filter FG872 from Advance Auto Parts ($138.00+$12.99) {Same prices and products as Autozone}
5) Air chisel worked great on floor boards, but there is some underlying bracing underneath that it would not cut thru easily or at all that was in the way, especially towards the passenger side seat. But I was able to wiggle the pump assembly out without cutting it anyway. I also had to wait for the small compressor to refill after only a few seconds of work.
6) Couldn't figure out how to get the harness off the top of the fuel assembly where the 6 bolts are (mine was the long one with 4 wires coming out, not round), but finally realized there are 2 other harness plugs close by that you can find by following the wires, you can disconnect them to get the assembly out. They were not especially easy to get to though, especially the one attached to the top of the tank.
7) Make sure you have a crimp tool/wire stripper as the new pump has butt connectors and has to be spliced to the old wires. I couldn't find mine and had to go to the store again.
8) My neighbor had some leftover galvanized steel roll which I cut with snips to cover the hole. I had some "tar tape" that I used to use to seal satellite dishes to shingles. I lined the hole with that and used self tapping screws to attach the cover. It did the job but it didn't seal as good as I hoped as some of the screws wouldn't go through the double metal. I just put more sealer on the top afterwards and it should be fine.
9) Oh on my 4.0l v6 the fuel schrader valve is on the passenger side of the engine just in front of the distributor cap.
10) When I changed the filter some fuel spilled out but it wasn't too bad, just have a container to catch it, it is under the driver's side door frame rail.
11) Lastly the seal (o-ring) that seals the pump assembly to the tank was intact and did not match any of the new seals that came with the pump, so I just used the old one.
Well, that's it. Overall it worked out, I would not have done it if I had to drop the fuel tank. So for a little over $200 it was worth it. If anyone has any questions my email is
kevinmurphy4u@comcast.net
Thanks again all.