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91-94X Battery Cables

The on-line Ford parts dealers are a little less expensive - but that requires planning ahead!

I ordered the Napa negative cable - I should pick it up today. They do not have a listing for the positive cable - but Ford does. I guess I'll be ordering one from Ford...
 



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... it's worth noting the new cables are now like the ones for newer Explorers, with smaller battery connectors (but still not the thin import-style as on the Napa cables) and standard-duty hardware instead of the heavier stuff I have on my factory cables.
...

I am planning on cutting off the smaller/cheaper connectors, crimping on heavy lugs and using military-style battery post connectors.
 






Post any pictures that you guys have of cables and terminals etc. I always try hard to make the best connections all over a vehicle. The OEM stuff is adequate for stock vehicles, but not when you add new bigger loads. These Explorers are set up very well to be able to upgrade the electrical system, and I don't mean the alternator.
 






Additional Tips for Replacing Battery Cables on a First-Generation Explorer

Tbars4 did a wonderful write up at the beginning of this thread! I've added some additional information gathered from other posts and instructions from the parts to provide some additional tips for first-timers:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2741519&postcount=9

Good luck!

--Phil
 






Great write up, but I have a question about the positive cable replacement. It may be obvious, but I figured I'd check... do you have to pull the starter off to replace those connections?
 






The starter is only held in by two bolts, which are pretty easy to remove. In my opinion I'd rather ensure a better connection to the starter at the time you are doing this procedure in a conrollable environment then worry about it in a later no-start situation in less than ideal situations.

Basically, if you are intalling new wiring it is best practice to make sure that the end result (connections) is done well. And the starter is really the end.

Hope that helps. Removing the starter was actually the most pleasurable part of the job! :)
 






For me the starter connections were the worst part. Heh. I decided to just drop it, but when I tried to remove the lower bolt, the one that holds the hook that holds the positive cable as it crosses over from the passenger side, the first twist ended up bending that hook and wrapping it partially around my socket.

The bolt looks like it has two nuts on it, the hook slid on between them, so I thought the first nut would just come off, but it was only coming off with the whole bolt (at the expense of the hook). I ended up having to cut that hook off with some metal cutters. I currently have some wire preforming the function of that hook and holding the positive cable up.

The second bolt wouldn't budge at all. So I eventually had to look at things from topside more closely, felt around from underneath a bit better until I understood things better (I haven't worked on any starters that I can recall), then disconnected everything nicely, and put the new cable on. Pretty easy. Heh.

I got the NAPA cables, but the negative cable is shorter than I would have liked. I could have used another two inches in the section that goes from the frame to the motor, and another two inches in the section that goes from the frame to the battery. As it is things are very tight. Makes me nervous.

But overall the job was pretty easy.
 






Rockauto.com has much better prices for the OE cables;

MOTORCRAFT Part # WC9050 {#F3TZ14300E} $41.79
MOTORCRAFT Part # WC9049 {#F37U14301EB, F3TZ14301E} $42.79

There's also those 5% discount coupon codes, plus no tax, so this might be the way to go if you gotta have OE cables.

Is it safe to say that Rockauto has updated their site as far as the battery-ground cable? Or Motorcraft changed it perhaps?

This is what I find for the "Ground Strap" in their catalog,

MOTORCRAFT Part # WC8993 {#F17U14301BB, F1TZ14301C} Battery to Ground Cable.

Though the Positive side of things remains the same,

MOTORCRAFT Part # WC9050 {#F37U14300EB, F3TZ14300E}

Benjam :D
 






The WC8993 would be the ground cable for the 91-92 Explorers, the image it shows is very similar to the WC9049 cable I have, but you can see from the images on the Rockauto site that the WC8993 cable is shorter, and has shorter cables for the connectors as well:

Old WC9049 info page (obsolete):

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=381783

WC8993 page:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=381759


The WC8993 cable is what you want for a 91-92 anyway, as they had a different engine compartment arrangment and used a shorter cable. Plus it's $28.79 instead of $41.79.
 






Well someone better slap my hand and tell me BAD DOG!!!.... I used the new ends instead of new cables.

The first set of ends (military special) lasted 2 years, countless start cycles from pizza delivery, and in January I put 2 more new ends on.

I guess this is on my to do list for the truck.... I will do it when I pull the motor later this year.
 






That clears things up, thank you Anime.

MR Cribb, I've had those temporary cable ends on for many years with no issues up until recently, they dont tighten down enough anymore. Who knows what the inside of the cable actually looks like though, so it will be getting motorcraft cables in the near future.

Group buy on battery cables? anyone? haha

Benjam :D
 






If the cables themselves are fine and the terminals are just cracking or falling apart then of course you can just clip the terminals off and use marine, mil-spec, or bolt-down replacements. I'm not sure why replacement terminals would go bad in just a few years time, though maybe cheap ones just aren't good quality metal and don't come with good fasteners.

Usually the reason for cable replacement is the use of lead-acid batteries has caused the cables to develop corrosion internally, and the copper wire now has corrosion within the wire strands, that would be impossible to clean out short of stripping off the entire housing and re-twisting and re-sheathing the cable. Easier to just buy new cables.
 






My cables have some visible corrosion, but I had yet to experience a no start situation with the exception of dead battery and dead fenderwell solenoid (at same time).

Big help with the napa link as they look like the correct cables. The Advance auto, and Autozone cables didn't look correct (nor were they in stock) at the time, and I didn't have the extra cash to pony up for the full cable replacement.

Again this is something I will address later this year when the motor comes out.

Thanks again for the links and part numbers.
 






Just wanted to say thanks for the info in this thread. I just completed this on my 1991 which had factory battery cables. They were utterly horrible. I'm surprised a fire didn't start and even more so, I'm surprised the engine started, even in the winter.

Photo album:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/q7i2yxgovgzo8k4/AACP3hidB1tFP22836PfeuS8a?dl=0

The positive wasn't horrible, it needed replacing but I could have gone on using it. The negative was downright scary though. The black isn't residue from electrical tape, it got THAT hot from resistance. The end that bolts to the engine had a jacket so hard that I had to crack pieces off with a pair of pliers. Corrosion ran through the entire length of the cable.

If you haven't done this, I can't recommend it more. It will prolong your starter and make less work for your alternator (my battery voltage meter went up). I had no starting issues related to electrical systems. Totally reliable but I'm so glad I changed the cables.
 






...Happy to see these old threads and fixes still help others with their repairs. .:biggthump
 


















Here are the updated links. Just thought this would make it a tiny bit easier for someone wanting to do this!

Positive: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ttery-Cable-Positive/_/R-CBL717993_0213338557

Negative: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ttery-Cable-Positive/_/R-CBL717993_0213338557

..Even though both of your links are for the negative cable, with your assistance the first post has been updated to the correct new links for each cable..:biggthump

Wow! Makes me want to change out my negative cable. I replaced the positive side in January due to it not starting, but I've yet to mess with the negative side.

..I am amazed at how well Fords have performed on daily drivers with bad cables...Even though the vehicle still runs, you are not doing any of the electronic components a favor running with bad cables in general..

...Without a good ground, electrical current is reduced you are in a "short" condition..and depending on how bad the wires are voltage and readings become a bit erratic ..

..Good main electrical connections mean more power and a better running vehicle...;)
 









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