speaker mounting in hatch...

moose1 · 10-03-2006, 05:37 PM

I wanted to mount 2 10's in the hatch area, one in the little storage area were the jack and such goes, and the other were the little storage opening is on the oppisite side. Whats the best option, a fiberglass box made to fit right into these area's or make templates and cut the shapes and form a mdf box?

davesexplorer · 10-03-2006, 06:49 PM

I'd do a MDF frame with fiberglass hugging the odd shapes and front to preserve strength, and so you dont have to do mad layers of f/g.

**FROADER** · 10-03-2006, 06:56 PM

moose, check out this thread. For the driver side, it will be tricky with the gas filler hose metal bulge in the way though.

Stealth Box Build

moose1 · 10-03-2006, 07:51 PM

Froader thanks for that link, thats similar to what I am doing, for the drivers side I cane up with this idea of making a all fiberglass insernt that will roll over the hump and go all the way to the end of the open panel, so it will fit that whole area, but petrude a little bit.

**MountaineerGreen** · 10-03-2006, 07:55 PM

I built one of those boxes, mounted the amp in the opposite panel area. It works well, after looking behind the drivers side, Id be surprised if you can get enough room to put a sub in.

moose1 · 10-03-2006, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mountaineergree

I built one of those boxes, mounted the amp in the opposite panel area. It works well, after looking behind the drivers side, Id be surprised if you can get enough room to put a sub in.

Itll purtrude out a few inches to allow for the speaker to fit in that area.

**Turdle** · 10-04-2006, 09:58 AM

OK moose check this out
I am old, and somewhat cheap lately

I used my stock sub box-cut the hole and re enforced it with fiberglass to hold a single 10" polk sub.
After I mounted it, I completely surrounded it with minimal expanding spray foam. It is very rigid, you cannot move the box at all without the whole car moving. The whole thing looks ugly, however it is completely covered by the rear panel--looks like I have done nothing. It is enough sound for me, in fact actually too loud. My wife is always telling me to turn it down.

oh
I am not using stock power or HU
My amps are under the seats--looks completely like a stock truck-except for components and HU

moose1 · 10-04-2006, 10:19 AM

jt.

I didnt have a sub in the rear all i had was the cubby hole, were I guess it would have gone. So I took the cubby hole out and place tin foil arround it , them layed fiberglass over it when it dried I was left with a exact mold of the stock shaped cubby hole. as far as the front goes, I used the frame that clips into the acualy panel to get the size and formation, today I will lay some more glass and start to sand etc etc etc.....but the fiberglass mold is the exact match to the hole piece that fit into the exsisting hole.

**MountaineerGreen** · 10-04-2006, 01:17 PM

Im with JT, one 10" sub seems plenty loud to me, I have to turn my amp way down to make it so that I can stand it. And I am running a cheap sub from walley world that was given to me.

10-03-2006, 05:37 PM	#1
moose1 B coupville, wa 99 xlt Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 1,106 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	speaker mounting in hatch... I wanted to mount 2 10's in the hatch area, one in the little storage area were the jack and such goes, and the other were the little storage opening is on the oppisite side. Whats the best option, a fiberglass box made to fit right into these area's or make templates and cut the shapes and form a mdf box?

10-03-2006, 06:49 PM	#2
davesexplorer Wannabe Elite Explorer Central PA 2001 F350 7.3 Join Date: Mar 2001 Posts: 2,808 Vehicle Specs	I'd do a MDF frame with fiberglass hugging the odd shapes and front to preserve strength, and so you dont have to do mad layers of f/g. __________________ 2001 F350 Extended Cab Long Bed Lariat 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 1999 Mustang GT 5spd vert

10-03-2006, 06:56 PM	#3
FROADER Moderator Huntington Beach, CA Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 20,045 Vehicle Specs	moose, check out this thread. For the driver side, it will be tricky with the gas filler hose metal bulge in the way though. Stealth Box Build __________________ COLIN IGNACIO FORUM RULES My 2010 Explorer - Explorer #1 (sold) - Explorer #2 (sold) - My F-150 (sold) - My Ranger (sold) - My Videos

10-03-2006, 07:55 PM	#5
MountaineerGreen Towing Moderator North East Arkansas 2012 F150 4x4 Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 7,589 Vehicle Specs	I built one of those boxes, mounted the amp in the opposite panel area. It works well, after looking behind the drivers side, Id be surprised if you can get enough room to put a sub in. __________________ -Evan Febuary 09 Feature Truck - Elite Registry - Photo Gallery - Feedback - Go Elite! - My Write Ups - EF Vendors

10-04-2006, 09:58 AM	#7
Turdle Old and in the way Humboldt, Kansas 2000 Mounty Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 23,738 Vehicle Specs	OK moose check this out I am old, and somewhat cheap lately I used my stock sub box-cut the hole and re enforced it with fiberglass to hold a single 10" polk sub. After I mounted it, I completely surrounded it with minimal expanding spray foam. It is very rigid, you cannot move the box at all without the whole car moving. The whole thing looks ugly, however it is completely covered by the rear panel--looks like I have done nothing. It is enough sound for me, in fact actually too loud. My wife is always telling me to turn it down. oh I am not using stock power or HU My amps are under the seats--looks completely like a stock truck-except for components and HU __________________ Jon 2000 Mountaineer Turdle-gone Vitamin D Wagon Sold also

10-03-2006, 07:51 PM	#4
moose1 B coupville, wa 99 xlt Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 1,106 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Froader thanks for that link, thats similar to what I am doing, for the drivers side I cane up with this idea of making a all fiberglass insernt that will roll over the hump and go all the way to the end of the open panel, so it will fit that whole area, but petrude a little bit.

10-04-2006, 10:19 AM	#8
moose1 B coupville, wa 99 xlt Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 1,106 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	jt. I didnt have a sub in the rear all i had was the cubby hole, were I guess it would have gone. So I took the cubby hole out and place tin foil arround it , them layed fiberglass over it when it dried I was left with a exact mold of the stock shaped cubby hole. as far as the front goes, I used the frame that clips into the acualy panel to get the size and formation, today I will lay some more glass and start to sand etc etc etc.....but the fiberglass mold is the exact match to the hole piece that fit into the exsisting hole.

10-04-2006, 01:17 PM	#9
MountaineerGreen Towing Moderator North East Arkansas 2012 F150 4x4 Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 7,589 Vehicle Specs	Im with JT, one 10" sub seems plenty loud to me, I have to turn my amp way down to make it so that I can stand it. And I am running a cheap sub from walley world that was given to me. __________________ -Evan Febuary 09 Feature Truck - Elite Registry - Photo Gallery - Feedback - Go Elite! - My Write Ups - EF Vendors