Additional strength for block-- lifter valley girdle?

I just saw that on Horsepower TV. If you are running more than 100hp over stock I could see that it would be beneficial. Anything less than that and it just seems unnecessary.

Well if I don't have 100 hp over stock, I will be pissed

Just another thing for the wish list.


Dreamr, you might want this for your current project car

That ther would be a good idea for the current project..........I just wish I still had 230 dollars

I just can't imagine needing one unless your going to build full race. And HP out the A$$ and the RPMs maxed out between shifts.
On a pushrod motor one thing to consider is to make sure you have a good set of pushrod guide plates installed. You would not believe how much they twist under load. Seen a super slow video of how much they bend and twist. It's strange how much all that metal block and stuff really moves around under stress. I have even seen where the clyinders even start burning different the further you get back from the cam drive gear thats mounted on front of cam. Do the words torsional twist mean anything? Now this is on a cam with very high spring pressures also.

JT what block is your 347 based on?

410Fortune said:

JT what block is your 347 based on?

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fORD rACINGS sPORTSMAN BLOCK

Damn I hate the caps lock button getting in the way

Yup, I bought a sportsman block.
There were two things that suprised me.
It weighed 186 lbs, with the crate--yes 186 lbs shipping weight.

Also guys, I could see no difference between it and the explorer block, it even had the same casting numbers.
I still have the stock block,

Sadly the sportsman block is not a whole lot - if any - stronger than production block. I believe FRPP stopped listing HP rating on that block in the catalog. Many people split it at or below 500hp.

Best to get a Mexican block for cheap, Boss 302 block for $800-1000, or an SVO A4 or R302, or ultimately a Dart 8.2 block.

Good luck.

Currently Jeg's is selling them. www.jegs.com

I have a 302 Valley Girdle installed in my Mustang. I also have a main girdle. The 2 girdles combined basically eliminate the block from twisting and ruining your internals: head gaskets, pistons, cylinder walls, rods... Also, because your engine is now working more efficently... you will be increasing your engine's fuel economy.

Girdle up!
Jen

Hello,

I would say bracing across would benefit any engine in a V. V6 V8 V12 ect..

Here is some more info:

(34 YEARS AGO) Don Garlits had Donovan make him a block with this casted in place in 1972 for TOP FUEL! 1974 Keith Black copied this design for the 426 Hemi Top Fuel cars.. view the links below

Follow these links... to see Donovan and Garlits http://www.donovanengineering.com/Bl...0BigBlock.html
http://www.donovanengineering.com/Hi...lery/index.htm

You see this is not a new idea. Nobody has had the patent and made this public ! Until recently.

Do you know what Cylinder Bore Distortion is? When your block begins it's twist, the cylinder walls will start to warp from a circular shaped hole to an egg shaped hole (this is called cylinder wall distortion). When your pistons fire, they fire from opposing sides... grab a pop can (Pepsi/Coke it does'nt matter) and holding it top to bottom twist back and forth. Your pop can, just like an engine block, will begin to shear.The Main And Upper Support help prevent the twist of the engine block.

Piston bore distortion:
Your circular pistons get "pinched" due to the fact they are trying to get through this egg shaped cylinder wall. Look at your pistons!!!!

If the bores are square the rings can seal properly. This gives more compression. When the block twists, the bores twists causing your rings to have more friction because they are rolling over the edge (not flat against the cylinder wall).

When you eliminate block twist, your engine and it's components, will work more efficently.

DSS and Coast High Performance both sell main and lifter valley girdles. They are very helpful on latemodel 5.0L because of the thin casting block. I highly recommend one if racing is your thing. I have seen the factory blocks literally split in half with as little as a 70 shot. The car would still run but missed badly. When the main caps were unbolted the block fell in half(longway). I couldn't believe my eyes. Search dogpile and you will find this is a problem with late model blocks. That is why everyone is stepping up to the sportsman block (basically a marine block),or the "mexican" block which is substantially stronger as well as a crapload heavier.

I can t see why it need to strent the lifter valley . When you have 600hp on a stock bloc , it s not the lifter valley who split , it s the front main cap who crack between the first cam bearing .

My thought is to strengt the main to save the internal if you split your bloc and if you think that the lifter valley can twist , you need a stonger block as , Dart, A302 ...

Sorry for the english fault

yea, all those girdles will do is save your internals, if your blocks going to split it'll split, 4 bolt main caps on a weak webbed 5.0 is pointless. Only problem with mexican blocks is they need some monkeying around with the cam(come stock with flat tappet), maybe 20%? stronger. Best bet now is the BOSS block that Ford Motorsport has, by the time you finish maching your old block you might as well spend the few bucks and buy this, if you are under 4-450 fwhp I wouldnt bother

Reading over at turbomustangs.com and the general opinion is that even with a girdle the block will still break at the same HP level, it will just stay together better as you pull it down...

I doubt you'd be in danger with a 347 unless you were going to be running a lot of revs.

what is the goal when you install a girdle , to keep the bloc in one piece .

Doesn't the lower intake do that for the top of the bloc ??

Marketing ...

Double post

The goal is to eliminate the twisting of the engine by bracing across. In other words, stabilize. When the engine is stabilized your parts along with your engine are able to work more efficently. Thus, you would be able to see an increase in fuel economy and horsepower.

scruff said:

Reading over at turbomustangs.com and the general opinion is that even with a girdle the block will still break at the same HP level, it will just stay together better as you pull it down...

I doubt you'd be in danger with a 347 unless you were going to be running a lot of revs.

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I like turbomustangs.com, but there general opinion about the block still breaking at the same HP level is not true. I would have broke at least 3 times by now if I had not placed both upper and lower girdles on my motor. I speak from hands on experience.

Anything more than about 500hp in a small block Ford and you're pushing your luck. Any and all insurance you can provide is absolutly necessisary. I have witnessed stock blocks split right down the middle. OUCH! I didn't think twice about girdles on my 331. Next SBF I build will have DART block.