SAS Track bar & Steering geometry?

[Kinserin]

How parallel does the track bar and drag link need to be? I ran a few searches last night but came up with nothing, only found a small amount of pictures that had what I wanted.

Did any of you use the stock F150/Bronco track bar on your D44 hi-pinion SAS? Anyone running cross-over steering with the stock location on the knuckles?

I'd prefer to run cross-over instead of the TRE setup mainly because of how far forward my diff is.. Which apparently is becoming a slight issue lol. I'll try and get some pictures on the weekend or tonight to better describe my situation with my diff. Hopefully my 'oopsie' isnt as big as I thought it was originally yesterday, because it seems fixable now

-edit-

Just realized where I posted this, if it should be else where, could a mod move it please? Thanks.

[DB_1]

The closer the better to reduce bump steer. Mine is probably off by 3 or 4 degrees but I don't notice any bumpsteer on or off road. Ideally you want both the drag link and trac-bar the same length and at the same angle. Having them the same length isn't always possible, that's why you'd want to get the angle as best you can because each link will be moving on a different arc hence the bumpsteer issue.

[Stic-o]

Used Superlift 80's bronco trackbar (what ever they call it) cut down a bit, it was a bit too long.

1.5"x .25" DOM tubbing with Chevy 1 ton TRE's. reamed stock knuckle, to move steering to on top.

All on a 78-79 f150/Bronco HP44, Full width.

[Kinserin]

I would love to do the Chevy 1 ton TREs, but since I failed at planning my steering (I underestimated it and figured it wouldnt be to hard.. HA) I moved my diff to far forward and with the drag link attached to the tie rod, they'll bind because the drag link has to move towards the rear of the vehicle to get to my pitman arm... Hopefully I'll remember to bring my camera tomorrow and I'll take some pictures.

Basically I think I need to mount my track bar on the back side of the original mount (the hole on the V-block wedges) to clear my pitman arm, and then run cross-over steering with the original knuckles (drag link on the top of the pass. knuckle, then the tie rod on the bottom of the knuckles) since I want to stay 5 bolt (Or at least I've been told I cant get flat top knuckles and stay 5 bolt?).

Its funny, because my swap went so well for every other aspect of it, as well as the rear diff swap and even my engine/tranny swap that all happened at the same time and in under a year (probably only a 25 days of total work on the weekends only every now and then), I knew something would hold me up for getting it all done, and Im thinkin this might be it lol.

[ReDLiNeZL]

Originally Posted by Stic-o

Used Superlift 80's bronco trackbar (what ever they call it) cut down a bit, it was a bit too long.

1.5"x .25" DOM tubbing with Chevy 1 ton TRE's. reamed stock knuckle, to move steering to on top.

All on a 78-79 f150/Bronco HP44, Full width.

i see your caliper in your one photo, did you use your stock ex lines and everything? i just ran my lines today using all the stock lines and everything, just shaved a little bit off the blocks at end of the lines that mount to sas calipers, atleast that how im running it for now

[Stic-o]

you could just get a longer pitman arm The SD ones are pretty long, but don't have a drop.


I used T-bird brkes on mine, that fist pic, is just because I left the all the brake lines conected until I was ready to do them

[Kinserin]

Thats the alignment issue atm for the steering. I never thought about getting a longer arm, I'll admit that... I'll start looking. Thanks Stic-o

[Kyle0614]

guess you guys took a break from being chased by the raptors eh?? lol ...stic-o i'm going to drive my truck to cali and give you the money to paint mine like that whenever i get the dollars let me know what the labor would be ...we need a JP 95-97 anyways lol just curious

[Kinserin]

Oh and one other thing, what is an SD pitman arm, Stic-o? Would this be an item I could grab from the wreckers or an aftermarket arm I need to find?

Thanks again, its much appreciated.

-Ninja edit- unless you ment SD = SuperDuty.. /shrug

[RockRanger]

Do the high steer arm on the passanger side. then mount the track bar nice and flat.

[Kinserin]

I'd prefer to stay 5 bolt and as far as Im aware I cant use flat top knuckles for high steer?

[RockRanger]

5 bolt knuckles or 5 bolt lug pattern? If you want to stay with the ford bolt pattern knuckles you can get some aftermaret knuckles that let you bolt on a hi steer arm. Of if you just want to keep a 5 bolt lug pattern then you can mix some ford and chevy parts and get a 5 on 5.5 lug pattern running the chevy knuckles.

[DB_1]

High steer is the reason you buy flat top knuckles. The drag link is mounted on the high steer arm which is bolted to the top of the knuckle.

Crossover steering is usually the tie-rod on top of the knuckles with the drag link either mounted on top of the tie-rod or to the tie-rod itself.

[Kinserin]

What parts would I need to stay with the ford 5 lug and I guess the use the chevy 6 bolt knuckles? Flat tops are out of the question atm unless I can interchange bearings and what not because the diff is freshly rebuilt with all brand new parts. I'll probably look into that pitman arm solution and then think about going flat top later on in life. The major problem is the dead line that I hope I can meet, which is the second weekend of May lol.

[Kinserin]

Originally Posted by DB_1

High steer is the reason you buy flat top knuckles. The drag link is mounted on the high steer arm which is bolted to the top of the knuckle.

Crossover steering is usually the tie-rod on top of the knuckles with the drag link either mounted on top of the tie-rod or to the tie-rod itself.

I should have been more specific, what I ment was Im not aware of a means to getting flat top knuckles while retaining my 5 on 5.5 lug bolt pattern on the outers. I've got a 8 bolt dana 44 with flat tops but I don't wanna run 8 bolt quite yet, or ever /shrug lol

[DB_1]

You can do like RockRanger said above and mix & match parts to get 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern and have high-steer.
As best I know, Ford 5 lug rotors/bearings will fit on the jeep/chevy spindles.

[RockRanger]

I am running chevy knuckles, jeep wagoneer calipers and backing plates, a spindle form an early chevy truck, TTB f150 rotor and wheel bearings, a jeep wagoneer axle shaft and regular dana 44 hubs. I have cross over steering which is what you need and a 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern.

Or I belive you get get aftermarket knuckle from maybe crane or dengeber (sp?) or maybe a differnt company that has been made to allow the use of ford outers with a hi steer are on top.

[DB_1]

Originally Posted by RockRanger

Or I belive you get get aftermarket knuckle from maybe crane or dengeber (sp?) or maybe a differnt company that has been made to allow the use of ford outers with a hi steer are on top.

Yeah, Dedenbear (now Reid Racing) makes a Ford high steer knuckle with 5 studs.