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- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '98 EB, '93 Limited
I looked for a decent spark plug change how-to on here, but was unable to find one. Well, I just recently replaced mine and took some pics. Hopefully this guide will give everybody a heads-up on doing this.
By replacing your plugs and wires you can potentially increase your gas mileage and extend the life of your engine. You should also gain some power if yours haven't been replaced in a while.
(If I erred and somebody has already done this, then just take it as my spark plug project )
Step 1.
The tools and parts you will need are:
- A 3/8 socket wrench
- A long 5/8 socket
- Several lengths of extenders for the socket wrench
- 6 spark plugs (I used Bosch Plus Copper Cores)
- A set of spark plug wires (Again Bosch)
- Your Exploder jack and accompanying accessories(Located in the compartment in the rear on the driver's side) OPTIONAL
- A jack stand (for safety) OPTIONAL
- Several pieces of wood (I used 4 pieces of plywood) OPTIONAL
- Liquid Wrench or other anti-seize chemical
- Dielectric grease
- Gap Setter
- Flat-head screw driver
- Light
2. Ok it's time to put your Ex on a level surface and pop the hood. Familiarize yourself with where the spark plugs are. Remove the intake hose from the air filter and the intake manifold. Then remove the vacuum tube to the oil fill from the intake hose. Disregard removing the radiator hose. This diagram should help:
3a. Remove the spark plugs on the driver's side: DO NOT DO ALL THE SPARK PLUGS AT ONCE!! Take one spark plug at a time. Remove it, remove the wire (twist left and right if it is hard to get off. Make sure you grab the boot at the base not at the top!) and measure it up to the new wire in the Spark Plug wire set. Apply the dielectric grease to the inside of the rubber boot ONLY!! Do not get it on the metal connector in the boot.
(1) Spark Plug nearest firewall: Should be able to get this out with a short extension.
(2) Middle Spark Plug: Short Extension.
(3) Spark Plug nearest Rad: Long extension.
3b. Replace the Spark Plugs on driver's side: Replace each spark plug as you take the old one out. Make sure to set the gap for your Spark Plug at 0.54. Use a gap setter like this one: (Sorry phone cam is not really good) Coat each Spark Plug threads with 3-in-1 oil or anti-sieze. (I used liquid wrench) Torque to 15#
Don't over torque the Spark Plugs or cross thread them. If you do either it could mess up the head. Make sure you that you have the correct Spark Plug wire
replacement. The connector in the boot will click when full contact is made with the sp.
4. Spark Plug's removal and replacement on passenger's side: These will be a heck of a lot harder but still doable. Do the middle one and the one nearest the rad first. I recommend you don't use extensions on either of these. With these two you are going to have to feel your way to get them out. My dad and I used a crate to get high enough up to reach in to get 'em and both of us are at least 6'.
Replacing the Spark Plug next to the firewall.
OPTION 1
Now for the hard part. You are going to have to jack the car up to get under it and reach up through the hole in the wheel well to undo the boot and replace the frickin' thing. Usually one person on top with a flashlight and another underneath should be able to do this. Make sure you let the engine cool for a while because you and your buddy will be getting your hands right next to the exhaust manifold.
Squirm under the front passenger wheel and place your boards under the shock absorber and set the Ex jack on those boards. Make sure you have the connector piece for the jack to raise it up. It is located right on top of the radiator housing. Raise the jack up till it hits the shock absorber and adjust to make sure it doesn't slip. Now continue to raise it all the way.
When it is up all the way take your jack stand and put it under the frame. This is to protect you in case the Ex jack fails. Now crawl under the passenger side of the engine compartment. There should be a gap in the wheel well between the well and and the frame. You should be able to reach in there and get the boot off the Spark Plug. Your friend up top should be able to guide you.
You will have to use an extension on this Spark Plug and you will have to take it off from the bottom. Smaller hands are better for this job. Make sure your buddy guides you all the way. Once the stupid thing is out put the new one and tighten it. Your buddy may have to tighten it once you get the socket on the Spark Plug.
OPTION 2 (gsmaclean)
Pull the RF wheel well liner out (a few screws, then pull the plastic liner out) it gives you a lot better access to the plug.
OPTION 3 (TedJ)
Remove the passenger side tire
OPTION 4: The Diehard Way (Four0Sport)
Magnetic socket and wobble extension from the top.
6. Take your Ex for a test drive. If it starts to sputter and die under higher speeds then you may have not set the gaps right on the Spark Plugs. If this occurs...redo it all tomorrow.
Hope this helps. My plugs and wires had not been replaced in some time (I purchased it this way) so my plugs and wires looked and were really, really bad.
By replacing your plugs and wires you can potentially increase your gas mileage and extend the life of your engine. You should also gain some power if yours haven't been replaced in a while.
(If I erred and somebody has already done this, then just take it as my spark plug project )
Step 1.
The tools and parts you will need are:
- A 3/8 socket wrench
- A long 5/8 socket
- Several lengths of extenders for the socket wrench
- 6 spark plugs (I used Bosch Plus Copper Cores)
- A set of spark plug wires (Again Bosch)
- Your Exploder jack and accompanying accessories(Located in the compartment in the rear on the driver's side) OPTIONAL
- A jack stand (for safety) OPTIONAL
- Several pieces of wood (I used 4 pieces of plywood) OPTIONAL
- Liquid Wrench or other anti-seize chemical
- Dielectric grease
- Gap Setter
- Flat-head screw driver
- Light
2. Ok it's time to put your Ex on a level surface and pop the hood. Familiarize yourself with where the spark plugs are. Remove the intake hose from the air filter and the intake manifold. Then remove the vacuum tube to the oil fill from the intake hose. Disregard removing the radiator hose. This diagram should help:
3a. Remove the spark plugs on the driver's side: DO NOT DO ALL THE SPARK PLUGS AT ONCE!! Take one spark plug at a time. Remove it, remove the wire (twist left and right if it is hard to get off. Make sure you grab the boot at the base not at the top!) and measure it up to the new wire in the Spark Plug wire set. Apply the dielectric grease to the inside of the rubber boot ONLY!! Do not get it on the metal connector in the boot.
(1) Spark Plug nearest firewall: Should be able to get this out with a short extension.
(2) Middle Spark Plug: Short Extension.
(3) Spark Plug nearest Rad: Long extension.
3b. Replace the Spark Plugs on driver's side: Replace each spark plug as you take the old one out. Make sure to set the gap for your Spark Plug at 0.54. Use a gap setter like this one: (Sorry phone cam is not really good) Coat each Spark Plug threads with 3-in-1 oil or anti-sieze. (I used liquid wrench) Torque to 15#
Don't over torque the Spark Plugs or cross thread them. If you do either it could mess up the head. Make sure you that you have the correct Spark Plug wire
replacement. The connector in the boot will click when full contact is made with the sp.
4. Spark Plug's removal and replacement on passenger's side: These will be a heck of a lot harder but still doable. Do the middle one and the one nearest the rad first. I recommend you don't use extensions on either of these. With these two you are going to have to feel your way to get them out. My dad and I used a crate to get high enough up to reach in to get 'em and both of us are at least 6'.
Replacing the Spark Plug next to the firewall.
OPTION 1
Now for the hard part. You are going to have to jack the car up to get under it and reach up through the hole in the wheel well to undo the boot and replace the frickin' thing. Usually one person on top with a flashlight and another underneath should be able to do this. Make sure you let the engine cool for a while because you and your buddy will be getting your hands right next to the exhaust manifold.
Squirm under the front passenger wheel and place your boards under the shock absorber and set the Ex jack on those boards. Make sure you have the connector piece for the jack to raise it up. It is located right on top of the radiator housing. Raise the jack up till it hits the shock absorber and adjust to make sure it doesn't slip. Now continue to raise it all the way.
When it is up all the way take your jack stand and put it under the frame. This is to protect you in case the Ex jack fails. Now crawl under the passenger side of the engine compartment. There should be a gap in the wheel well between the well and and the frame. You should be able to reach in there and get the boot off the Spark Plug. Your friend up top should be able to guide you.
You will have to use an extension on this Spark Plug and you will have to take it off from the bottom. Smaller hands are better for this job. Make sure your buddy guides you all the way. Once the stupid thing is out put the new one and tighten it. Your buddy may have to tighten it once you get the socket on the Spark Plug.
OPTION 2 (gsmaclean)
Pull the RF wheel well liner out (a few screws, then pull the plastic liner out) it gives you a lot better access to the plug.
OPTION 3 (TedJ)
Remove the passenger side tire
OPTION 4: The Diehard Way (Four0Sport)
Magnetic socket and wobble extension from the top.
6. Take your Ex for a test drive. If it starts to sputter and die under higher speeds then you may have not set the gaps right on the Spark Plugs. If this occurs...redo it all tomorrow.
Hope this helps. My plugs and wires had not been replaced in some time (I purchased it this way) so my plugs and wires looked and were really, really bad.