What battery for 98 5.0 with Sound System

[tkoCF821]

I did some searching and it seems Optima is the battery with the longest life, but you certainly pay for it.

I do not intend to keep the car for more than a couple more years because it's taken a beating but I do need a new battery. I am wondering what everyone is using in their cars that have after market audio, and what battery is the best for the money because I am on a tight budget.

In my 98 EB I have a JL W7 fed by a 500/1 JL amp and a JL 300/4 amp to the speakers. The car came with the system so I'm not entirely familiar with it, but recently the speakers (but not the sub) started cutting in and out with the amp losing power (the power indicator light would turn off on the amp). Yesterday I went to start the car and I all I here is click click. I get a jump and drive for the next four hours and not once does the audio cut out. I don't know how long the battery has been in the car, I've had it since 2006 but it looks to be original/old so it's definitely time to replace.

Thanks,

Tom

[b3hr3ns]

Optima is the way to go! I have the red top, I use it for running my car PC and audio, works great for that. The yellow top is MAINLY for electronics 'n such.
You can always take the battery out and put it into a new one later on down the road if you choose to replace the vehicle.

[tkoCF821]

Originally Posted by b3hr3ns

Optima is the way to go! I have the red top, I use it for running my car PC and audio, works great for that. The yellow top is MAINLY for electronics 'n such.
You can always take the battery out and put it into a new one later on down the road if you choose to replace the vehicle.

Any opinions on Duralast? $100 cheaper and longer warranty.

[BrianDye]

I have the Duralast Gold in my 92, and can stand behind it and say its a kick ass battery, when it was -13 degrees out here last winter, my explorer didnt even hesitate at all starting, but I have a Hifonics 3200 watt amp pushing 2 Kicker 15" L7's, I have sony 3 ways in the doors, 4 tweeters all around, 12" flipdown monitor, and I HEAVILY use my AC; 10000k headlights, with some pretty bright APC foglights, the batteries great, and has tons of power over the previous one, but without my Kinetik battery my needle (Always at the tip of the L in normal, with just the AC and radio on low (ac on high) its already down to M, then if I blast the radio, it sometimes goes down to the front of the O, but I have a Kinetik power cell in the back, says its equal to 100-1 farad caps, and that helps alot, but my gauge still bounces down to like r lol

[tkoCF821]

Originally Posted by BrianDye

I have the Duralast Gold in my 92, and can stand behind it and say its a kick ass battery, when it was -13 degrees out here last winter, my explorer didnt even hesitate at all starting, but I have a Hifonics 3200 watt amp pushing 2 Kicker 15" L7's, I have sony 3 ways in the doors, 4 tweeters all around, 12" flipdown monitor, and I HEAVILY use my AC; 10000k headlights, with some pretty bright APC foglights, the batteries great, and has tons of power over the previous one, but without my Kinetik battery my needle (Always at the tip of the L in normal, with just the AC and radio on low (ac on high) its already down to M, then if I blast the radio, it sometimes goes down to the front of the O, but I have a Kinetik power cell in the back, says its equal to 100-1 farad caps, and that helps alot, but my gauge still bounces down to like r lol

Congrats on that system, sounds incredible. I had a friend with two 15 L7s in a Suburban and it made my car sound stock.

I have to admit your post is a bit over my head, I'm guessing you have two batteries?

[b3hr3ns]

Heres a site I just found on reviews of some common batteries.
http://www.funskins.com/cars/best-car-battery.html
I guess what it comes down to now is, do you live in a regularly cold climate? (cold cranking amps+)
http://www.optimabatteries.com/optim...dtop/specs.php
I haven't had much encounters with duralast, Ive heard good things about them though.
Its a fine balance between price and warranty. I know people who've had the red top for 5 years, still works well.

[Beastb15]

I always buy the Wal-Mart Everstart batteries (the highest grade they have). I generally end up getting a bigger battery than spec'd out for Explorers. Also, for audio reasons I always get the battery with top and side mount posts.

[tkoCF821]

I'm going to settle on the Duralast.

Can't say I have ever changed a car battery, so what exactly am I going to need as far as tools? Also, is there a guide on here on how to do it because I'm not all that technically inclined.

[BrianDye]

Yea, its really easy, you just need to have the right size socket to loosen the connectors, then lift them off, then just lift the battery off and put the new one in

(Well thats on my 92, i dont know if they use any like holsters on the 2nd gens)

[Nutzon20s]

Wish I would have got this sooner, I have 5 optimas. They will no longer be used, Im getting out of audio. Group 34 red and yellows, and 3 Group 31 blue tops...

[BrianDye]

What are you asking for them?
Im looking to upgrade my amp and im gonna be runnin a lotta shit in my 95....

[Wagonized]

the only battery worth using is a group 31...get a deep cycle group 31 from your preferred company and ur good to go.

Ive listed the top 6 batteries that Id consider using in a serious car audio system below and ranked them 6 worst to 1st best based on a few different criteria. This is assuming you're going 12 volts and not 16 volts which is quite uncommon anyway

SPL use
6 kinetik power cells hc2400
5 Optima g31- yellow or bluetop (same battery)
4 XS power d3100
3 odyssey pc2150 (same as stinger2150, tsunami X152150 etc)
2 northstar nsb90 or g3100
1 hawker datasafe hx400

daily use (general reserve)
6 Optima g31- yellow or bluetop (same battery)
5 odyssey pc2150 (same as stinger2150, tsunami X152150 etc)
4 northstar nsb90 or g3100
3 hawker datasafe hx400
2 kinetik power cells hc2400
1 XS power d3100

company tech support and supporting 12 volt industry
6 northstar nsb90 or g3100
5 hawker datasafe hx400
4 odyssey pc2150 (same as stinger2150, tsunami X152150 etc)
3 Optima g31- yellow or bluetop (same battery)
2 kinetik power cells hc2400
1 XS power d3100 By far the best customer service and industry support

Availability
6 hawker datasafe hx400
5 northstar nsb90 or g3100
4 odyssey pc2150 (same as stinger2150, tsunami X152150 etc)
3 kinetik power cells hc2400
2 XS power d3100
1 Optima g31- yellow or bluetop (same battery)

Price
6 hawker datasafe hx400
5 northstar nsb90 or g3100
4 kinetik power cells hc2400
3 XS power d3100
2 odyssey pc2150 (same as stinger2150, tsunami X152150 etc)
1 Optima g31- yellow or bluetop (same battery)

Overall..if you're going for a loud daily driver setup, ability to mount batteries anywhere in any position and last forever without wasting money
6 hawker datasafe hx400
5 northstar nsb90 or g3100
4 kinetik power cells hc2400
3 Optima g31- yellow or bluetop (same battery)
2 odyssey pc2150 (same as stinger2150, tsunami X152150 etc)
1 XS power d3100

[Nutzon20s]

Brian, I have a CS 5k f.s as well. I think You might like it. I dont want to take this thread over I'll pm you this weekend.

[BigBoom]

i have a few XS batts myself as well and love them. i plan on getting another 3100 and stuff it under my hood and stick the others in the back somewhere somehow. i will probably always buy XS.

[Anime]

Something like a Duralast/Diehard/Everstart that is the right size for the vehicle will usually do just fine. Get the best warranty you can. Regardless of the brand names on them, the vast majority of lead-acid batteries are made by Exide, anyway.

The alternator is where most audio power availability problems lie, and while a better battery helps, it won't do much if the alternator can't deliver the power the amplifiers need, or keep up with both the radio, amps, A/C, wipers, etc. all being operated at once.

The big benefits of dry-cel batteries like the Optima are a lighter weight for the CA/CCA it puts out, no corrosion, no leaks, and the wide variety of mounting options without a needing a battery box. I only use Optimas since I like saving 10 lbs of battery weight and having higher amps, and I'm done with dealing with dripping acid or corroded terminals ever again.

For most people, a battery that is cost effective, which can be replaced quickly and easily at local and nationwide stores is what they really need. While I haven't had too much trouble getting warranty exchanges on Optimas, it's still more hassle than people who don't do alot of their own auto maintenance would want to deal with.

You don't have to have any tools to get a Duralast/Diehard/Everstart installed, almost all auto parts stores offer free professional installation with the purchase of a battery.
You also save the hassle of lugging your old battery back to the store for the core exchange.

Find the best price/power/warranty ratio for your needs, buy it, have them install it while you watch, and enjoy.