R&R 1995+ Ford Explorer Front Chassis Components: Step-by-Step Balljoints Brakes Etc

[95exploderboy]

Originally Posted by Diddy74

Anyone? Inner Tie Rod replacement/adjustment? The Chiltons manual makes it look easy. I know better, just wondered has anyone done it?

Shouldn't be too hard....

I know on some cars I have used what is basicall a really deep socket that is made to go over the while inner TR. If you don't have that option, then it should be easy to just remove the outer TRE making sure that you count how many turns it takes to remove it. Then turn the wheel to that side, and use a big open ended wrench to remove the TR. Put the new one on and the boot. Then put the outer TRE on the same number of turns it was when you removed it. Do this for both sides and then go get an alignment.

[Diddy74]

Thanx im gonna take a look this weekend, both outer tie rods are tight. The driver side has a little play like it will twist on the axis, no lateral movement but still slightly loose.

[aeaglenfitch]

subscribing

[ernaldmerican]

Great instructions. i will be following these this weekend. I noticed you did not replace or remove the lower control arm bolts (two horizontal to frame mounted). Is there a reason why? My question is realy do these bolts have bushings which should be replaced over time, and since your in there replace them or are they solid pieces which should or normally don't need replacing?

[MountaineerGreen]

In my experience, I have never seen the bushings or bolts on the LCA's go bad. I would simply replace the lower ball joint and go on with it.

If you do remove the LCA, be very careful, the tortion bar runs through it and it has alot of force. You must release the bar first, which can be a dangerous task.

[ncc]

Agreed. You probably won't need to worry about the lower control arm. Just replace the ball joint and be done with it.

[exploring_1978]

I would recommend that anyone trying this task rent the “BALL JOINT PRESS” from Autozone, it make inserting the new lower ball joint a lot easier.

Also check out this guy, http://stores.ebay.com/UnderCarSupply Search for the Explorer Stuff, he has some really good made in USA stuff, for a good price (w/ and w/o tie rod ends and links). This is what I used, lifetime warranty, and it is a lot stronger than OEM.

[g8r]

Just wondering;

I know a lot was covered here but about how long would it take for someone to do the front suspension for the first time.

and,

How do you know when its time to replace the components? Is there a good way to check?

At about 70mph the truck has a little wobble when trying to go straight.

[exploring_1978]

Originally Posted by g8r

Just wondering;

I know a lot was covered here but about how long would it take for someone to do the front suspension for the first time.

and,

How do you know when its time to replace the components? Is there a good way to check?

At about 70mph the truck has a little wobble when trying to go straight.

It took me 1/2 of friday and 1/2 of saturday, so about 1 full day and it was my first time. You will want to borrow an impact wrench if you don't already have one, and get the pickle forks from Autozone too. Plan to cuss plenty when you try get the driver side bolts for the control arm back in, not impossible, but the Ford Engineers did no favors.

If the front End is shot (ball joint) it should clunk when going over bumps. Chances are if you Exp has near 100k the front end is shot. Some last longer but most don't. As long as I was in there I replaced all 4 of the ball joints and the stabilizer links.

A wobble can be anything from bad front end components, alignment or a mis-balanced tire. This fix may not correct your wobble.

[jbl0072k2]

extremely helpful......hold it down.

[candksdad]

u didnt specify that the lower ball joint has to be pressd out

[95exploderboy]

Originally Posted by candksdad

u didnt specify that the lower ball joint has to be pressd out

That's because it doesn't need to be. You can use a BFH and socket.

[fenderbender2002]

Originally Posted by exploring_1978

Plan to cuss plenty when you try get the driver side bolts for the control arm back in, not impossible, but the Ford Engineers did no favors.

I have been able to remove the front bolt for the control arm but the one closest to the cab is giving me trouble. Any pointers on how you removed yours? Mine is hitting the cup for the shock on one side and a small black pipe on the other side. My ex is a 2wd 5.0 if it matters.

[fenderbender2002]

Well the good news is that as I contiued to read through every post on ball joint replacement I found this post http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...+joints&page=5 it said "take out the A/C line strap that was tapped into the front UCA mount. That gave me the 1/2 inch I need to get the cam bolt out." I never noticed the bolt due to all the hardened grease and dirt that coated the entire inside of the front mount. Once I cleaned the area it was plain as day. Hopefully it will stop raining tonight and I can finish it tomorrow morning and get my alignment done. Thanks everyone!

[Cheddarhead]

Subscribing....Great Write-up! Thanks...

[95ExpLim]

This is a great thread, after reading it I ordered the following:



The cost of the parts in the list from RockAuto was $356.72 including $20 shipping FedEx.

I ordered the single passenger side UCA.

In addition, locally, I bought 2 Timkin grease seals (#9150S) for the hubs, 1 lb of Lithium based grease for the bearings and to fill the ball joints, and 2 caliper bolts from the Ford dealer ( after I rounded the hex off) -at $10.50 each...ouch!

The Moog parts includes: the upper ball joint pinch bolts, all grease zerks, boots, nuts and cotter pins.

The Ford service manual lists the following specs for torquing the various fastners:

UPPER BALL JOINT NUT (PINCH BOLT).....30/40 FT LBS
LOWER BALL JOINT NUT..........................83/113 FT LBS
TIE ROD END NUT (21mm)......................50/77 FT LBS
CALIPER BOLTS (15mm)........................73/95 FT LBS AND USE THREAD LOCKER

I removed the wheel bearings and checked them and their races for any wear -after 160,000 miles still in great shape.



The Ford manual says to install the hub in the following manner:

Tighten the spindle nut to 25 ft/lbs while rotating the hub. Loosen the spindle nut 120 to 180 degrees and re-tighten to 18/20 lb-INCH

One thing I discovered that helped removing/installing the UCA on the driver's side is to remove the nuts on both ends of the arms (the knuckle already removed) and slide the UCA towards the engine. The bolts are in a slot to allow adjustment and by pushing them towards the engine you can gain a bit more clearance -believe me you'll be looking for any clearance you can get on the drivers side. Passenger side is a walk in the park.

In this picture notice the two small "steps", one on the bolt head, one on the square washer on the nut end. When installed they face each other as shown.



I hope this info helps someone, this thread sure helped me!

[sabasigh]

Hey folks,

Been reading these threads/how-to's and am tackling UCA, LBJ, Outer tie rods, and swaybar endlinks over the coming week, as well as front brakes on my 2000 Ex Sport 4x4.

Got my MOOG parts ordered and had a few questions:

Where should I use Anti-sieze and Loctite?

Can I get this all accomplished without removing the steering knuckle from the axle? Do the UCA, replace the do the lower bj/tie rod?

[95ExpLim]

Be sure to use Loctite on the four caliper bolts, in fact I had to buy two from Ford and they had some form of "Loctite" (red) already painted on the threads.

Except for the two caliper bolts my stuff un-threaded ok after 15 years so I didn't use any anti-seize putting them back. If you use it be aware it will throw torque readings off...

[sabasigh]

Thanks to everyone who put the hard work into the How-To threads. Got my Upper Control arms, cam bolts, lower ball joints, tie rod ends and sway bar end links all replaced.

Best $20 I have spent on the Interwebs!