Freeze plugs-JBWeld?

GSPKurt · 03-17-2011, 06:33 PM

I have to replace the 2 freeze plugs at the rear of the engine, and I'm not liking the idea. Would JBWeld hold? Yeah, it's mickeymouse, but it's going to be a beater anyway.

lounge lizard · 03-17-2011, 06:55 PM

no!

if the plugs are leaking now they will continue to leak and rust away until the JB weld fails in front of them and then you will loose the whole nine yards.

now!
if you can get the old ones out. you can get rubber ones that you push in and tighten with a wrench

*Roadrunner777* · 03-17-2011, 07:07 PM

If I recall, JB weld dries rigid, and you would have leaking and failure due to heat expansion. I agree on the rubber ones, make sure they are absolutely flush to the block and tighten them as much as you dare.

98 sport · 03-17-2011, 07:15 PM

If you can get the old ones out, try tapping on one side with a screwdriver to get it cocked in the bore and pull out with visegrips. Then clean bore with fine sandpaper, and get some new ones from napa, then tap new ones into bore until flush with block. You can apply some rtv silicone on the plug before installing, it will help it slide in easier and help it seal. OR... if its a beater just hammer it into the block and put in a rubber marine plug from the hardware store.

huntman58 · 03-17-2011, 07:57 PM

I would try to replace them first with real ones only I would use gasket cement on them instead of RTV. Paint the sides and the back of them as it helps seal them better and protect them down the line beater or not its better then having a problem down the road were you can not fix them right then. Second chose would be the rubber ones you put in then tighten the screw on to seal things up but remember there only a fast patch and not a good fix. sure some get away with it for a long tie but do you really want to be in the middle of a trail run and have them go out then because you did not take the time to fix it right in the first place now? I know I would not want that so I would do it right now beater or not.

*FIND* · 03-17-2011, 08:16 PM

Don't bother with the rubber plugs unless it is going to be a VERY temporary fix, they never last long, and they don't actually work as freeze plugs. Plus, they may also leak when it gets cold. Use real plugs, they aren't that much tougher to install than the rubber ones are going to be anyways.

GSPKurt · 03-17-2011, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by huntman58

I would try to replace them first with real ones only I would use gasket cement on them instead of RTV. Paint the sides and the back of them as it helps seal them better and protect them down the line beater or not its better then having a problem down the road were you can not fix them right then. Second chose would be the rubber ones you put in then tighten the screw on to seal things up but remember there only a fast patch and not a good fix. sure some get away with it for a long tie but do you really want to be in the middle of a trail run and have them go out then because you did not take the time to fix it right in the first place now? I know I would not want that so I would do it right now beater or not.

I'm not a "band-aid" repair type of guy, I like to do it right, but I tried to get the ones in the block replaced with the brass plugs, and no way can I do it. It is very frustrating. I'm tempted to dump the thing.

huntman58 · 03-18-2011, 02:11 AM

Are the plugs back were the bell housing is or on the sides but in the back of the motor?
If it’s the later I have found removing the inner fender wells helps but I have even gone to removing the whole fender to give me room when needed. I am disabled so flexibility and dexterity are not my strong suit any more so at times I have to remove extra stuff to do a job others would not have to remove the things for.

now a strange idea if there in the back of the block by the bell housing is drilling some holes in the fire wall have someone hold the socket in the plug and then hit the extension from in side to set them . Then close up the holes with rubber plugs or a metal plate with some screws and some RTV. just a thought but I am not wear I can go out and look at my 93 to see how or even if it will work but just some creative thinking and what I would be looking at in your shoes.

03-17-2011, 06:33 PM	#1
GSPKurt Wannabe Elite Explorer Florida 92 2-Dr. Sport 4x2 5spd Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 4 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Freeze plugs-JBWeld? I have to replace the 2 freeze plugs at the rear of the engine, and I'm not liking the idea. Would JBWeld hold? Yeah, it's mickeymouse, but it's going to be a beater anyway.

03-17-2011, 06:55 PM	#2
lounge lizard Wannabe Elite Explorer Eastern PA 1997 xlt awd Join Date: Dec 2010 Posts: 798 Vehicle Specs	no! if the plugs are leaking now they will continue to leak and rust away until the JB weld fails in front of them and then you will loose the whole nine yards. now! if you can get the old ones out. you can get rubber ones that you push in and tighten with a wrench __________________ lifting the world one truck at a time!

03-17-2011, 07:07 PM	#3
Roadrunner777 Bemidji, MN 94 4x4 Sport 88k Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 1,261 Vehicle Specs	If I recall, JB weld dries rigid, and you would have leaking and failure due to heat expansion. I agree on the rubber ones, make sure they are absolutely flush to the block and tighten them as much as you dare. __________________ 1st Gen Fuel Pressure Not ready for prime time link list KD0SCJ

03-17-2011, 07:15 PM	#4
98 sport Wannabe Elite Explorer Lancaster, New York 98 Sport Join Date: Jul 2004 Posts: 51 Vehicle Specs	If you can get the old ones out, try tapping on one side with a screwdriver to get it cocked in the bore and pull out with visegrips. Then clean bore with fine sandpaper, and get some new ones from napa, then tap new ones into bore until flush with block. You can apply some rtv silicone on the plug before installing, it will help it slide in easier and help it seal. OR... if its a beater just hammer it into the block and put in a rubber marine plug from the hardware store.

03-17-2011, 07:57 PM	#5
huntman58 Wannabe Elite Explorer Raisin city calif. 1993 xlt 4x4 Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 723 Vehicle Specs	I would try to replace them first with real ones only I would use gasket cement on them instead of RTV. Paint the sides and the back of them as it helps seal them better and protect them down the line beater or not its better then having a problem down the road were you can not fix them right then. Second chose would be the rubber ones you put in then tighten the screw on to seal things up but remember there only a fast patch and not a good fix. sure some get away with it for a long tie but do you really want to be in the middle of a trail run and have them go out then because you did not take the time to fix it right in the first place now? I know I would not want that so I would do it right now beater or not.

03-18-2011, 02:11 AM	#8
huntman58 Wannabe Elite Explorer Raisin city calif. 1993 xlt 4x4 Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 723 Vehicle Specs	Are the plugs back were the bell housing is or on the sides but in the back of the motor? If it’s the later I have found removing the inner fender wells helps but I have even gone to removing the whole fender to give me room when needed. I am disabled so flexibility and dexterity are not my strong suit any more so at times I have to remove extra stuff to do a job others would not have to remove the things for. now a strange idea if there in the back of the block by the bell housing is drilling some holes in the fire wall have someone hold the socket in the plug and then hit the extension from in side to set them . Then close up the holes with rubber plugs or a metal plate with some screws and some RTV. just a thought but I am not wear I can go out and look at my 93 to see how or even if it will work but just some creative thinking and what I would be looking at in your shoes.