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96 V8 Explorer, broken spark plug *pics inside of what I used*

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Old 08-07-2010, 01:13 PM   #41
2k five-oh
Maine, USA
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**Update**
Went back to the store and got the next size down. X5 I believe it was. Pulled the threads out no problem, and I got all new plugs wires and coils in it and man is it running nice now. Thanks to the people that posted in this thread that got me through this. I was stressin!
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Old 11-28-2010, 04:01 PM   #42
oxBullseye
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Another happy dude here after reading this thread, I was able to heat, spray, heat and spray and used an impact (low torque) gun with my compressor set at 100psi and was able to back it out.

I don't usually bump old threads, but seeing as spark plugs are one of those things that keep on coming back for more I figured it was worth the props and the bump

Thanks to everyone for this forum and it's members
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:31 PM   #43
redfury
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yet another victim

Funny, I started my plug replacements on the "hard side" first to get it out of the way. All of those plugs were just slightly tightened against the seal and I had no problems at all. ( drivers side )

Passenger side, every single plug was in tight enough that it required "force" to loosen them. As it was, the 2nd and 4th plug were the most stubborn. I got the 4th plug ( closest to the firewall) out, but it required close to maximum effort with a 3/8ths ratchet on 3 extensions and a swivel and it came loose. So, I went back to that 2nd plug. Figured it would take the same force to get it to break free. Well, it snapped free

So, now I have a pretty built in whistle. I heated it up with my propane torch and threw some PB blaster at it, let it sit a few minutes, then hit it with the torch. Shortly after starting I had a "WHOOSH!" and it blew out the flame. Apparently I found the ignition point for the PB blaster that had gotten into the cylinder

Still working on getting it out. I picked up an easy out set and gave it a shot with a 7/16 wrench figuring I didn't want to over torque and break it. I don't have a good socket to fit it either ( have a set of square drives but they are too big or too small..grrrr ). So, it sits overnight and I'll take a crack at it in the morning.

Wish me luck!
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:15 AM   #44
chicguy
Arkansas
2001
 
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thanks guys just what i needed, by the way i've got a 93 explorer xlt and have'nt drove it yet, hope to get it ready for july.
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Old 03-24-2012, 07:29 AM   #45
redfury
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Didn't want to risk breaking the easy out in the head, so I drove it up to the local mechanic. $100 later I'm good to go. Took them an hour and a half to get it out. Honestly, I'm not complaining.
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:25 AM   #46
Torqueranger
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I broke a spark plug in front of my girlfriend's house.. My plugs had 150k miles on them and all came except one which broke in the head..The spark plug broke right after the nut ,so I had the rest of the plug stuck in there and half of the insulator ..I just told my girl friend to keep bumping the engine till it shoots the insulator out which it did and then I rode my bike down to napa and pick up a spiral fluted extraction set for $13 .. It took it right out with the help of a big breaker bar...
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:01 PM   #47
bluestream1
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Is it better to try and change the plugs with the engine warm or Cold??




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Old 10-13-2012, 09:50 PM   #48
koda2000
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i think cold, that way the metal's contrated (and you don't burn your fingers)




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Old 10-13-2012, 10:40 PM   #49
swshawaii
Kailua-Oahu, Hawaii
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Definitely cold, especially with aluminum heads. Don't forget anti seize.
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:43 AM   #50
SoNic67
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Here are my pictures. Almost a copy of what happend above. Three plugs broke, managed to extract two, at the third, the first extractor wasn't 'gripping' anymore, bought another one from AZ, extractor broke. Drove it with extractor in place to the shop, head removed to pull the extractor. I blame the piss-poor design of OE plugs - half threaded (for automatic machine insertion) and not-plated with corrosion-proof alloy. Now I use only Autolite Iridium (XP) or, even better, NGK Laser Iridium plugs.

My mechanic told me that the extractors like that ones that I use are bad for thin-walled left-overs, they tend to swell the metal in hole, he had a different type of extractor. Because he knew that, now he gets all the work that I can't do (like replacing oil pump, exhaust gaskets replacement)...
See below.






http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bol...-536526-series

Last edited by SoNic67; 10-14-2012 at 06:54 AM.
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:21 AM   #51
Cobraguy
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Guys...over the years, as engines heat and cool, moisture, etc can be drawn in and around the threads of spark plugs. Where you live, humidity, etc can be a factor. Here in AZ, we don't see much of this...but I've worked on cars out of Wisconsin that should have been thrown away rather than repaired. So regardless of where you live, use anti-seize on your plugs. You will thank yourself later.




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Old 10-15-2012, 10:49 AM   #52
SoNic67
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Factory plugs don't have antiseize or plating. Plus they have a gap, associated with threadless part, that favorize water accumulation.
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:54 AM   #53
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Factory doesn't have a lot of things we use as commonplace.

But hey...if you would rather pull heads instead of plugs...by all means...skip the antiseize.




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Old 10-15-2012, 01:52 PM   #54
SoNic67
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I wasn't advocating that. Just sharing some info about 'beloved' Motorcraft plugs and Ford practice.
BTW, some plugs manufacturers say that shell plated plugs don't need antiseize:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf
Others don't require either any antiseize in their instructions:
http://www.autolite.com/enmx/learn_more/spark_plugs
http://www.densoiridium.com/installationguide.php

Last edited by SoNic67; 10-15-2012 at 02:34 PM.
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