Is there a easy way to switch door lock actuator out?

Phili602 · 03-24-2012, 09:22 PM

I have a 1998 XLT and the front door and passanger rear door arent locking right when I press the lock button. It sounds like the gear inside of it is just spinning freely and not grabbing to lock/unlock these 2 doors. The drivers side isnt as bad as the rear, so Im planning on doing the rear first and then the drivers side 2nd. I do have some different actuators that do work, but I know their rivited in there and was wondering if I am gonna have to tear the whole latch and everything out just to replace the actuator? Also instead of re riviting it back in there, could I use a nut and bolt or a screw to hold the actuator on the door or am I gonna have to re rivet it back on to the door? And whats the easiest way to get my lock to work again?

Phili602 · 03-26-2012, 06:45 PM

Would It be easy to install a aftermarket lock actuator instead of changing out the factory 1?

*toypaseo* · 03-26-2012, 08:24 PM

I was going to replace my passenger rear, but I had my ex-Ford mechanic neighbor do it. The hardest part is pry getting the actuator rods unhooked from the failing unit, and then hooking them back up to the new unit.

My neighbor had a punch he specifically ground down to push out the rivet pin since he replaced numerous Ford actuator over the years. You might be able to spread the actuator brackets, and just change out the actuator, instead of having to deal with the rivet issues. I think my neighbor just replaced the whole deal so he would not risk tearing the rubber jacket over the actuator.

He made it look so easy. It pry took my longer to remove them from the junkyard.

I can't remember why he recommended against using a nut and bolt. I just bought a heavy duty rivet gun from Harbor Freight, although I can't remember if he used a rivet he had, or if it is one of them that came with it. Here is the rivet gun...

http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...tle-66422.html

RickOTR · 03-31-2012, 09:23 PM

Here's what happens over time to the actuator.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCcKW...eature=related
The rivets on these are called a peel rivet, ebay has a lot of them.

03-24-2012, 09:22 PM	#1
Phili602 Wannabe Elite Explorer Phoenix 96 Sport Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 47 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Is there a easy way to switch door lock actuator out? I have a 1998 XLT and the front door and passanger rear door arent locking right when I press the lock button. It sounds like the gear inside of it is just spinning freely and not grabbing to lock/unlock these 2 doors. The drivers side isnt as bad as the rear, so Im planning on doing the rear first and then the drivers side 2nd. I do have some different actuators that do work, but I know their rivited in there and was wondering if I am gonna have to tear the whole latch and everything out just to replace the actuator? Also instead of re riviting it back in there, could I use a nut and bolt or a screw to hold the actuator on the door or am I gonna have to re rivet it back on to the door? And whats the easiest way to get my lock to work again?

03-26-2012, 08:24 PM	#3
toypaseo Flunked daycare outside shovelling snow ................ 96 XLT ™ Join Date: Jan 2003 Posts: 5,306 Vehicle Specs	I was going to replace my passenger rear, but I had my ex-Ford mechanic neighbor do it. The hardest part is pry getting the actuator rods unhooked from the failing unit, and then hooking them back up to the new unit. My neighbor had a punch he specifically ground down to push out the rivet pin since he replaced numerous Ford actuator over the years. You might be able to spread the actuator brackets, and just change out the actuator, instead of having to deal with the rivet issues. I think my neighbor just replaced the whole deal so he would not risk tearing the rubber jacket over the actuator. He made it look so easy. It pry took my longer to remove them from the junkyard. I can't remember why he recommended against using a nut and bolt. I just bought a heavy duty rivet gun from Harbor Freight, although I can't remember if he used a rivet he had, or if it is one of them that came with it. Here is the rivet gun... http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...tle-66422.html __________________ Kent - 1996 XLT - Hypertech Programmer, Gibson Catback, K&N FIPK, Alpine V12 MRV-100M, 8" round 2ohm Kicker Solobaric 1992 Toyota Paseo - Tein Super Street coilovers, Whiteline swaybars 22MM(F) 20MM(R), Prothane endlinks & mounts, VVR poly control arm bushings, K&N drop-in, Dynomax Ultraflo, Gibson stainless tip, Pirelli Winter Carving Edge(F) Kumho HP4 716(R) on steelies

03-31-2012, 09:23 PM	#4
RickOTR Wannabe Elite Explorer CA 1997 Explorer Sport 4X4 Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 641 Vehicle Specs	Here's what happens over time to the actuator. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCcKW...eature=related The rivets on these are called a peel rivet, ebay has a lot of them. __________________ 1997 Ford Explorer Sport: Over 500,000 miles and still going See my CarDomian for details on my Explorer http://www.cardomain.com/ride/666173 2007 Ford GT40: 2007 Lincoln MKX

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03-26-2012, 06:45 PM	#2
Phili602 Wannabe Elite Explorer Phoenix 96 Sport Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 47 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Would It be easy to install a aftermarket lock actuator instead of changing out the factory 1?