Planning a 5.0 Overhaul

[ssp.interceptor]

.

[ssp.interceptor]

.

[TekMan05]

So you're saying even for the price and paired with a custom cam it wouldn't necessarily justify the cost of the X heads. What are the pro and cons of those heads being they're supposed to be factory replacements? I also seen that they're aluminum vs steel. Would that offer benefits at all? And interceptor I wanna thank you for your input thus fair because I can see that you know what direction I'm aiming for with this project. The re ring, bearings, oil/water pump, timing chain, etc are all the obvious things that'll be addressed. Any good specific kits you'd recommend?

[ssp.interceptor]

.

[TekMan05]

Originally Posted by ssp.interceptor

I can't say for sure how much more you can squeeze out of them with a custom cam. I would definitely run it by FTI and see what they say. Ask them about how much power you could squeeze out by going from 64cc camber to a 58cc while your at it. In any case you'd be losing 50lbs. off the front end with the aluminum vs cast irons. I just haven't seen impressive results on mustangs with them vs iron gt40's, but none that I can remember had a custom cam or tune either.
Have you thought about a 347 kit? You could get one for what your going to pay for the heads and rebuild kit. I'd think a 347+P Heads+Custom Cam would make more overall torque and power across the range than a 302+GT40x+Custom Cam combo, and would be about the same price either way. Would be better suited for a 4,500lbs truck and I'm willing to bet that a custom cammed 347 with gt40p's tuned will make better power than a 347 with gt40x's heads and an X cam.
BTW, I'm not in anyway trying to tell you what or how to do your build, just trying to help you figure out what you want and what would be the best power per dollar package.

I know you're just being helpful. It's good that you're throwing out all these ideas. It's helping expand my mind on the possibilities.So you also suggest pretty much a 347 lower end with the stock 302 upper end plus custom cam and valve parts? Is that mechanically possible, because even if it is would I gain much for the price without upgrading to the higher end heads. Isn't the block alone close to $3000? On one hand, having a bare 347 block to work on over time and without a rush or down time would be very conveniant in a way as well. I could simply build the bottom end until ready and continue to drive my truck in the mean time and not have to worry about dropping a whole ton of money in at once. I like that idea as well.In the end yes, it's going to come down to price vs worth/labor. I'm looking to upgrade while overhauling but at the same time I'm not concerned with turning it into an all out Hot Rod truck neither. I don't want to go overboard with a 347 mainly because I figured it would end up sucking more money than I would originally plan. Although, I loved Jon's (Turdle's) truck. His truck was quick but he was also able to use that same engine for off-roading because it was a Torquey son of a gun. I'll talk to FTI and see what they have to say first.Just taking it one step at a time

[ssp.interceptor]

.

[TekMan05]

Well after alot of consideration and a visit to the local pull yard. I snagged a pair of GT40p heads. I'm just gonna go with machining these heads and having the cam built around them. I know I already have the same heads but they only costed 100 bucks alont with another tranny cooler. What can I do with these heads? Can I shave and port them enough to retain stock pistons or not? I still have to go back and find another one with a 5.0 so I can get the lower intake. The truck I worked on already was down to the valve covers. So at this point now, I'm looking at what I can do with a custom cam and gt40p heads.

[TekMan05]

I got an email back from Ed over at FlowTech Induction Systems and this is what he suggested I do with the heads and cam combo

Cut the spring pockets for a set of beehive springs -

Do a really good multi-angle competition valve job -

Mill the heads for a little more static compression -

Obtain a quality set of aluminum aftermarket roller rockers -

We can add one of my StreetBeast camshafts and you'll be done.

With that being said, how much should I get the heads milled and should I still port them? And is there any specific place you all would recommend me getting the valve parts? I'm finally set on what my goals are now and getting closer and closer to bringing this project to life.

[TekMan05]

Well guys , I'm gonna start tearing down the truck tomorrow. Wish me luckl. Im still waiting for the heads and lower intake to get down and I also have a beehive Spring kit coming from Flowtech Inductions. Still waiting for Ed to build my camshaft and select my rocker arms. Do you guys think with this beehive spring kit, new rockers, cam, and ported and milled 0.018'' GT40p heads I'm going to need new pushrods, lifters for this or will I be able to retain my factory ones? I'm not planning on changing the bottom end of the motor outside of new seals, gaskets, pumps, rings, and bearings.

[TekMan05]

Engine teardown is officially underway. Boy I tell ya, as clean as my engine bay was at the surface it sure is dirty the lower you get. I also discovered I was leaking a little bit of oil from the valve cover somewhere it seems. Also, it's amazing even with the fenders off how hard the TMH bolts are to get off. It's been an experience thus far. Should have it pulled tomorrow hopefully. I'm still waiting for my heads, lower intake, and spring kit. I still have to get the general overhaul parts, rockers, and cam, and a few other things. That's gonna take about 2 pay periods atleast. I'll keep people posted and welcome any info that could be useful.

[Turdle]

Looks like you are getting there-Is Geoff helping you? Dang, did I even spell his name right?

[TekMan05]

Originally Posted by Turdle

Looks like you are getting there-Is Geoff helping you? Dang, did I even spell his name right?

Lol yeah we're both crackin down on it. And yup you sure did lol. We got quite a bit done tonight. Loosened the header bolts, removed the plugs, the PS Pump, A/C Compressor, fuel rails, and alot of the stuff up top. Hoping to get the exhaust completely off the motor tomorrow, remove the starter, Bell housing bolts, radiator, fan, and a few other things and she should be lifted out by tomorrow night. I'd say going at a normal pace the engine should be disasembled by the end of the week.

[TekMan05]

Got a little more work done today. Got the water pump, radiator, one of the headers off, drivers head, lower intake, and the harmonic balance. While trying to take that off there was so much dirt/oil buildup on it from the front main seal leaking we couldn't see the holes for the puller bolts. We tried a different method and ended up chipping the end of the pulley So next week it's off to the pull yard for a new harmonic pulley. So Jon now you don't have to feel bad for that cracked manifold tab But I will say that most of the valve cover bolts were barely any tighter than finger tight! Whoops, that may explain the oil stay in the ridges of the covers and that hot oil smell I'd get after getting out of the truck sometimes. I'm gonna price a new Harmonic balancer first before trying the pull yard. What size balance is our 302? Autozone wanted a couple hundred. E-bay is showing brand new ones for under $100. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=....c0.m270.l1313
Overall that's the first main set back so far. Still waiting to hear from my cam builder on that and still need rocker arms to have all the after market parts that I'll need for this.
Oh yeah, also got my PAC Racing Valve spring kit today.
Beehive Valve Spring Kit #1XL: $495
PAC Racing 1518 Beehive Nitrided Valve Springs
.650” Lift Capable
130# at 1.800”
318# at 1.200”
Weight: 75 gr.
Chromemoly Steel Retainers
Hardened & Machined Valve Locks
Hardened & Machined Locators
Steel Shell Viton Valve Seals

[TekMan05]

Speaking of which, Anyone know of anything that might restore the polish of the headers?

Ouchies~!

[Turdle]

Real Fine steel wool and a cleaning compound which is not aggressive. Clean all the residue off real good with a clean towel. This should brighten them up a bit.

[TekMan05]

Quick update motor is finally out. It's on the stand with the pan still on it. I'm gonna go out and drain it here in a bit then start cleaning the engine bay, the block&Pan and lower suspension. THere's oily grease and dirty everywhere. I had an oil leak from both main seals apparantly. Oh and Jon, I seen there's a little bit of rust on the collecter flange of the headers. Is there any paint that can be used to withstand the heat from the headers. I was thinking of painting them black now since I seen that.

[Turdle]

Originally Posted by TekMan05

Quick update motor is finally out. It's on the stand with the pan still on it. I'm gonna go out and drain it here in a bit then start cleaning the engine bay, the block&Pan and lower suspension. THere's oily grease and dirty everywhere. I had an oil leak from both main seals apparantly. Oh and Jon, I seen there's a little bit of rust on the collecter flange of the headers. Is there any paint that can be used to withstand the heat from the headers. I was thinking of painting them black now since I seen that.

Try some aluminum foil, dip it in coca cola and scrub the rusty spot--

Other than another ceramic coat, nothing will hold up

[TekMan05]

Originally Posted by Turdle

Try some aluminum foil, dip it in coca cola and scrub the rusty spot--

Other than another ceramic coat, nothing will hold up

Ok, On Monday I'm going to try to get all the parts bought to rebuild the lower end of the motor since I still don't have my heads back yet and still haven't heard back from flowtech about my custom cam. Oh yeah, were ya able to get Eric's Harmonic balancer off yet?

[TekMan05]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-1632-8/
Weren't these the Rockers you were suggesting? It's 7/16'' stud with my same ratio but sold as a set of 8. It also said I must use screw in studs and guide plates. I take it I'll have to get those separately?

I'm also looking at these to replace my header bolts.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-400-1110/

[TekMan05]

Got some work done...























Yess there's some runs in it. I'm not worried about ABSOLUTE perfection on something hardly anyone will see. But this does make it look better than before