Can I remove my front driveshaft for 2wd?

[Phili602]

Or would I have to do a whole conversion? I have a 1998 4.0 with 4x4. The knob where I switch from 4 low to 4 high doesnt have a option for 2wd it just says AUTO. How would I be able to conserve gas and not use the 4wd if possible? Is it as easy as removing the front driveshaft and pulling the 4x4 fuse?

[99SportX]

'Brown wire mod' Search it.

I did the mod because when I was wheeling I was able to disconnect front axle when in 4 low for tight turns on the trail without blowing anything up.

I don't think you will see much in mpg though as the front axle still will be spinning. The driveshaft could be removed, but it isn't worth it imo.

[2000StreetRod]

If you remove the front driveshaft make sure you have a good emergency brake and apply it whenever you leave the vehicle. Otherwise, it may not be where you left it when you return.

[1996BLKBauer]

Originally Posted by 2000StreetRod

If you remove the front driveshaft make sure you have a good emergency brake and apply it whenever you leave the vehicle. Otherwise, it may not be where you left it when you return.

Do this! he is not kidding. Alos the amount of MPG differnece will be small if any. just keep tire pressure up, and switch to synthetic fluids for everything, you should have the same or better MPG, even if you did take out the drive shaft.

[SoNic67]

Originally Posted by Phili602

How would I be able to conserve gas and not use the 4wd if possible?

You are moving a 2.8 ton (5600lb) vehicle. The removal of the front shaft won't do squat for that, get a mini car that weights half of that (Fiat 500 has 2363 lbs) if you want good gas mileage.
Of course be prepared to be squished by some guy in a heavyer car that doesn't care about mileage as much as you.

If you don't belive me, drive the Explorer to 40mph and shift in N. See how long it takes to stop? There is not a real "drag" because of spinning axles (if your brakes are not stuck).
98% of the gas energy consumed in city is to accelerate the 2.8 ton hunk of steel. And you loose that at every stop sign/light.
On highway is the wind drag. At 80mph you have 8 times more wind drag than at 40mph. We are driving a brick. Get behind a tractor trailer and coast in his draft.

On engine side, personally, I use only syntethic fluids, and have added Lubro Moly in my oil.

[IZwack]

Originally Posted by SoNic67

98% of the gas energy consumed in city is to accelerate the 2.8 ton hunk of steel.

+1 -- which is why in my opinion, the first step in increasing MPGs from the vehicle's perspective is not drivetrain modifications (engine, trans, etc..), but rather to loose the unnecessary weight.

[snoranger]

In AUTO, you are in 2wd until the rear wheels slip, then it engages the front driveshaft. Removing the front driveshaft will gain you NO increase in MPG.

[buckwill]

Originally Posted by SoNic67

. Get behind a tractor trailer and coast in his draft.

.

if you start drafting a big truck, you are subject to getting an expensive traffic court and 2 point or more for following too close,, every state now

[SoNic67]

It was a joke per MithBusters... I am not the one obsessed about mileage.
I just like cruising safely in my hunk of steel on highway, surrounded by SmartForTwo, Fiat500, Chevy Aveo and such...

[derek_redneck91]

Originally Posted by snoranger

In AUTO, you are in 2wd until the rear wheels slip, then it engages the front driveshaft. Removing the front driveshaft will gain you NO increase in MPG.

I experienced otherwise. Not only does it come in when the rear wheels slip, but whenever acceleration is detected it kicks in as well. This was proved by the lighted switch I have for my BWM. And as other people are saying, you won't get anything from removing the front driveshaft because you still have a "live" front axle.

[MNgopher]

The front driveshaft receives some power at speeds all the way up to 45 mph, regardless of whether the system detects any wheel slippage or not. It applies more power to the front when slippage is detected. Explorers equipped this way do not have true 2wd capability from the factory. Brown wire mod is where you need to search for true 2wd capability.

[1996BLKBauer]

Originally Posted by SoNic67

You are moving a 2.8 ton (5600lb) vehicle. The removal of the front shaft won't do squat for that, get a mini car that weights half of that (Fiat 500 has 2363 lbs) if you want good gas mileage.
Of course be prepared to be squished by some guy in a heavyer car that doesn't care about mileage as much as you.

If you don't belive me, drive the Explorer to 40mph and shift in N. See how long it takes to stop? There is not a real "drag" because of spinning axles (if your brakes are not stuck).
98% of the gas energy consumed in city is to accelerate the 2.8 ton hunk of steel. And you loose that at every stop sign/light.
On highway is the wind drag. At 80mph you have 8 times more wind drag than at 40mph. We are driving a brick. Get behind a tractor trailer and coast in his draft.

On engine side, personally, I use only syntethic fluids, and have added Lubro Moly in my oil.

I haven't laughed that hard in a long time. It true, I just accept the gas mileage, for all the extra room, and the AWD, plus I will never own another car without a V8.

[SoNic67]

I have a blue tooth OBDII scanner and with my Andorid phone + Torque I can see instantaneous mileage and gasoline flow. It really hurts when you go over 70mph.
What I discovered is that at stoplight, if I put the gear selector in "N" it does take less gasoline... I guess that torque converter stall mode is pretty "strong" for a high-torque V8 vehicle.