Who has dumped their ARC for regular shocks? Recommendations please...

[cloud2or3]

Here's what Bilstein said... Not extremely helpful. I really dont want the rear sagging because of the weight in the vehicle...

"Nathan, here is a link to the shocks that Bilstein makes for your truck

http://www.bilsteincanada.com/index....4478_4513_4717

Bilstein does not make a load rated shock for that truck.

Shocks do not " carry " the load, the springs in the truck are designed to carry the load ( the shocks helps control it ) No shocks ill hold the height constant when you put extra weight in your truck.

I would recommend either a helper spring ( tends to make the truck ride very stiff/rough ) or an air bag setup to help with the weight when it is in the truck ( but will not make the truck ride rough/stiff when empty )

Give me a call or email with any other questions."

[CDW6212R]

If you do change from the ARC shocks, you stop listening to people who think of the truck as an ARC truck.

It is correct that the shocks don't support loads, but some pressurized shocks do help, adding 1/4" of ride height for example.

How does you truck work with the load now? The shocks have a minimal affect on load handling if you don't have tins of weight back there. The leaf springs need to be stiffer if you do remove the air shocks.

BTW, lowering the back hurts load carrying, because it takes less to bottom it out. With the EE 1.375" blocks, I have very little distance left until the rear hits the bump stops. I easily bottom out now with nothing in the back, when hitting any notable dips in the road. I do plan to select stiffer leafs when I replace them. The hard part there is having any control over the ride height when changing spring rates. I would like the back lower than it is, but as mentioned it's already an issue.

If you do like the ride you have now at all(in the back, not the front), you could change your system into a rear only ARC system. I bought my whole set of parts from a 98 Limited(4 wheel ARC), and later found a 99-01 ARC module. Leaving the front lines out and no connectors plugged in up front, it's a rear only 99-01 system in my 99 now.

[SoNic67]

Originally Posted by CDW6212R

The leaf springs need to be stiffer if you do remove the air shocks.

Exactly! Shocks internal pressure "carry" less the 30-70lbs of weight (more for monotubes than low-pressure ones, but I still can compress my monotubes with my upper body weight).
So, if the goal is to eliminate the ARC system, then something needs to be provided to carry the removed ARC capacity.
Either new leafs from a non-ARC or helper springs/leafs. Both methods will stiffen the ride of the empty vehice, since they will have to be sized to carry the full loaded weight.

[cloud2or3]

Originally Posted by CDW6212R

How does you truck work with the load now? The shocks have a minimal affect on load handling if you don't have tins of weight back there. The leaf springs need to be stiffer if you do remove the air shocks.

BTW, lowering the back hurts load carrying, because it takes less to bottom it out. With the EE 1.375" blocks, I have very little distance left until the rear hits the bump stops. I easily bottom out now with nothing in the back, when hitting any notable dips in the road. I do plan to select stiffer leafs when I replace them. The hard part there is having any control over the ride height when changing spring rates. I would like the back lower than it is, but as mentioned it's already an issue.

If you do like the ride you have now at all(in the back, not the front), you could change your system into a rear only ARC system. I bought my whole set of parts from a 98 Limited(4 wheel ARC), and later found a 99-01 ARC module. Leaving the front lines out and no connectors plugged in up front, it's a rear only 99-01 system in my 99 now.

Ok. So it looks like lowering is out. Doesnt sound like that will work for my set up at all.

I think the best place for me to start is replacing the rear sway bar and rear end links. Is there a 'best' option or hd option for the end links? I usually buy moog only.

As for the ride... It ok only. Its a truck i suppose. I was really hoping for a more car like ride at any expense at this point.

So by the sounds of it, the game plan now is...
Rear sway bar upgrade (addco or EE????)
New rear endlinks

Next if needed...
Add helper leafs

I'll hold onto the ARC for now. Especially if i could potentially be sagging with the rear.

Seems logical? Comments?

After all that though. I do know that my truck def sits uneven front to back, and left to right. No corner sits the same. Steps to level it all out? Links to other discussions on this?

[CDW6212R]

Rebuild it as you plan to, after the sway bar then you can decide what ride height is best for you and what you carry in it.

Before your next alignment, play with the front ride height some. Change it, drive it around for a short bit, look at it, and change it again. Do that knowing that it's not good for the tire wear until the alignment again, so don't push it hard in turns like that.

Then at the alignment, ask them to level the front, left to right. Do not go by the fender height, the bodies on all of these are mounted unlevel. They all are higher on one side than the other. Fix the frame level, that will provide the best handling, an even handling left to right. After that then it's possible to work with the back and get it closer to level.

I'm not sure how far off the bodies are at the back, those are harder to measure from the suspension to the ground(level ground).

In the front, measure from the lower control arm front bolt heads, down to the ground. My Mountaineer is around 8.5" there, which is fairly low. My 99 is at least 10 or 11", much closer to stock heights.

Forgive this picture, I was in a hurry measuring, taking the picture, and I accidentally showed the height at the torsion bar. The truck is level though, the alignment shop set it while it was on their level surface.

[SoNic67]

Mine is 11" to the center of that bolt (not to the torsion bar).

[cloud2or3]

Here's what Explorer Express has to say about their Swaybars >>>


"The X-SPEC sway bars are cold CNC bent steel with forged ends. Power coated black. The front is only recommended on 95-97 because they are tubular, our replacement is solid 1 3/8 dia.

The rear bar is 1 1/8 diameter, similar construction to the front but with custom poly bushing that fit the factory pivot brackets.

These bars are manufactured for us to our specs."


Sooooooo...

Given that info, and the size difference on the Addco's... which do I get?

[swshawaii]

Originally Posted by CDW6212R

Oh, BTW, I have the Addco front bar on my Mountaineer. I like it, I'm an old customer of theirs. But don't use the hardware they provide, I knew that before I bought the bar. They make great bars, but the hardware is poor quality. Don't use the front frame brackets at all, they do not attach properly to the frame(bolt heads contact the bracket way before being tight). The result will be either bent bolts, and/or broken bolts due to the bolts not seating flush with the bracket/frame. I have custom made frame brackets.

The rear bar bushings are rubber, as nobody uses anything but the stock parts. The Addco rear bar is smaller than the EE bar, so it may be possible to put together rear bars with urethane bushings. If not I'd prefer the EE bar.

Real tough decision, a toss up IMO. I have the Addco 633 and love it.
Benefits of the EE X-Spec are better hardware, larger diameter
shock clearance, and if included, split collars that prevents lateral shifting.
These benefits probably outweigh the difference in price between the two.
I didn't buy the EE because their cheapest freight to Hawaii was $117.
I was also quoted $42 ground freight for a pair of $50 bump stops.

[CDW6212R]

I'd get the EE bar if you can, try to find it used, they have been almost regular here for sale. They raised the prices a few years ago, so it may be harder to get used.

The Addco bar is a decent alternative, better than stock.

I bought a front bar from Addco in about 1987, they custom made one larger than the stocked size for a 72-79 Gran Torino. They charged me a fair price for a 1.25" bar then, the other size was 1.125".

Give them a call and see if they will make the Explorer rear bar in the same size as the EE bar. Remember though that you will likely need to use some other hardware besides what they use.

[swshawaii]

Explorer Express X-Spec vs. Stock

[cloud2or3]

Originally Posted by swshawaii

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopo...medium/126.jpg

great! Its a picture! lol... is someone selling these?

EDIT > ahhh now i see the pic and the caption... thanks!

[cloud2or3]

According to Explorer Express page on their rear only listing ....

"Ford revised the front sway bar for 98 models. They are now solid like our 95-97 part. These vehicles require only a rear sway bar to upgrade to X spec. "

Would I be able to seek out a front 98+ Sway Bar and simply install it? Use the same bushings i just bought and existing frame brackets?

[cloud2or3]

Originally Posted by CDW6212R

I'd get the EE bar if you can, try to find it used, they have been almost regular here for sale.

RE: Addco > Give them a call and see if they will make the Explorer rear bar in the same size as the EE bar. Remember though that you will likely need to use some other hardware besides what they use.

I'd buy used if anyone has one for sale... they want 235 for the rear... youch.

If I gave Addco a call and they did this, what substitute hardware would I need? From my understanding what they supplis is subpar...? or are you suggesting because the bar would be bigger/thicker that that existing hardware would not work? Either way, what would I need?

[swshawaii]

IIRC, the solid '98 front bar will bolt right on your '97, I'm sure someone knows.
Did you get a freight quote to Canada on the EE bar? Go to their site, register,
and you can get the charges. I've had no issues with my Addco sway brackets.
I believe the fitment problem may be for their front bar. Don't forget Zabteck for
Addco sway bar pricing. Not sure about their shipping to Canada. Link below.

http://www.zabteck.com/swaybar.htm

[cloud2or3]

Anyone know what the diameter of the 98+ front solid sway bar is? If that's the same front as what Explorer Express is selling, it might be a worthy alternative.

Hard to swallow the 235 for the rear even, but it sounds like the EE rear is the way to go... bigger better, wont have to say...'should have...' if I'm not happy with the adddco. I will send addco a message though to see if they can make the same width and see what they will charge.

So any info on the 98+ front swaybar?

[swshawaii]

Check this thread from 2008, and who has the answers.
I believe the 4WD is larger than the RWD, with same mounting points.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=226132

Relocating the brackets for the newer solid bar sounds like a PITA.
If you plan on upgrading to the "bolt on" Addco later, I would wait.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...front+sway+bar
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...front+sway+bar

[CDW6212R]

The front bars are the same diameter from 95-01, and the frame mount is on the vertical part of the frame, unlike the 98-01 which attached under the horizontal frame. They may be in the exact same place, ,and you can swap them.

The frame bushings you bought should work in either case.

The Addco hardware is a combination of end link bolts, nuts, bushings, spacers, plus the frame bushings and brackets. The frame bushings they use will be good enough, but often their end link bushings are smaller than other options.

I already had spare end link hardware from an Energy Suspension front bar kit I used but kept the stock links. I used the larger end link bushings from the ES kit, and the bolts/nuts/spacers which were the best of the bunch. I think the Addco front bolts and spacers were the best choice for my 98 truck.

Do some searching for the rear EE sway bar for a while. Those used to turn up every few months or so, for under $150. They used to be $150 new plus shipping.

[VinnieBoombots]

Okay... The shock conversion kits from Strutmasters are installed.

The photos show the new shocks, old shocks - front right was leaking, and the heights of the rear wheel well and rear bumper, before and after. The height of the front only went up one inch so no photos.

The ride is now FANTASTIC. This conversion was worth every penny. I also had to get new tires, since I was running four slicks. The combination of the two makes the ride just like it was new again.

The install went very smooth in under two hours. I did not do the work. My buddy was the mechanic and I only heard him cuss once - banged his head. Everything else was smooth. These were the original air ride shocks - 141,000 miles.

I don't take this truck off road so I don't anticipate any problems with the original soft springs that Ford has in this vehicle. This is a Limited and was supposed to ride soft.

I have not tackled disconnecting (cutting) the wire for the alert on the console. I've had the system off for about three years so it really doesn't bother me. Strutmasters provided the wiring diagram; I just don't want to mess with the wiring behind the radio and console. Maybe another day.

I'm not sure how to post a photo so here is a link to the gallery.

http://www.belphotos.com/Other/Shock...2898452_W7PT5k

[CDW6212R]

That's great, I'm glad you like it. Your friend is fortunate or very good, or both. The front shocks are often very tough to get the top nut off. Drive it for a while and see how it goes.

[SoNic67]

They looked awesome ! See my rears (front was better):



I didn't think I need them, till I did replace them and I saw/felt the difference.