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How much weight have you safely towed?

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Old 05-28-2012, 09:49 AM   #1
EastoutWest
Elite Explorer
Middle of Carolina
91 4x4 5spd XLT
 
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How much weight have you safely towed?

I am working with a start up company in the agricultural industry - a fruit tree nursery. We are looking at buying a compact tractor and right now, my explorer is the only option for towing.

I wanted to get your opinions on what is safe to tow and what is not. My explorer is a 91 with 5 speed and load-leveling shocks in the rear. It has a factory towing package with frame mounted class III hitch. I don't know what my differential gearing is but I would say it's probably 3.73. I get 20-22 mpg on the highway with 265/70/16 tires.

I'm looking at getting a compact tractor in the 2000-3000 lb range with a 6x16 tandem axle trailer with brakes. I'm figuring the total towing weight will be around 5000 lbs. From what I've read, my model explorer is rated to tow 5600 lbs.

I won't be going up or down any mountains and the longest haul will be from the auction to one of our sites. Then it will just be towed 5-10 miles between our sites every once in a while.

Do I need to install a brake controller? Is this even possible? I don't want to kill my truck but the company owner will assume some liability for possible damage if it were to happen. We just can't presently afford a tractor, a trailer, and a truck.

Thoughts...?




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Old 05-28-2012, 10:20 AM   #2
delexploder
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I have a 97 sport 4.0 sohc with 5 speed auto and 4.10 gears load levelers class 3 hitch and have towed over 8500 ibs with no trailer brakes. It requires a little nerve and alot of faith in your rig. Not something I recommend for everyone to try but that being said if you have working trailer brakes and yes you need a brake controller and good brakes on your truck and you are very careful its doable. Now keep in mind your load is gonna try to push the ass of your explorer around even with brakes and if the tung weight makes your ass sag alot then your also gonna loose some steering force. Can it be done? Yes is it safe? Well if you have brakes on the trailer and good brakes on the truck and be super careful and try to keep the weight on the axels of the trailer you should be OK but if something fails its gonna hurt!
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:22 AM   #3
EastoutWest
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Update: I confirmed that my axle is code D4, meaning it is the 3.73 limited slip. The owners manual says that my trailer weight can be 2,000-4,000 lbs. With the added support of load-leveling shocks, 5,000 lbs should be doable for short trips right?




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Old 05-28-2012, 10:23 AM   #4
EastoutWest
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thanks delexploder




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Old 05-28-2012, 11:19 AM   #5
colintrax
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You should be fine, just know that stopping will take longer and so will accelerating.
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Old 05-28-2012, 01:51 PM   #6
delexploder
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No prob. Hope my rant was helpful what kind of tires are you running?
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:48 PM   #7
EastoutWest
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I had bald tires when I finished the truck and little money... I got 4 decent used Uniroyal Laredos for $125 installed. I'm thinking my next new set will be 245 75 16 all terrains, haven't decided on the brand/model yet.




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Old 05-28-2012, 06:04 PM   #8
runningred92
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I would absolutely get the brake controller installed in your truck. It will make life so much easier on you. Other than that I see no issues pulling that kind of weight. You say you are going short distances so it might also be a good idea to go 4 hi. It will help with the starting part for sure and with the trailer you will already be making wide turns so what steering you give up in 4 hi won't be an issue. Good luck! And what types of fruit are you going to be growing? Figs? Apples peaches pears? --Andrew
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:34 PM   #9
EastoutWest
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Hi Andrew,

Thanks for the response. Yeah I've already started looking into brake controllers... I'm proficient in 12v electronics so I'm sure I can install it but am only familiar with 4-prong trailer wiring. Does the brake controller use such a plug or, do I also need to switch over to a round plug? How much weight requires the use of a weight distributing hitch?

We grow Mediterranean fruit trees... A lot of figs, pomegranates, some peaches and apricots. Before I started with the company, I had no idea pomegranate trees would grow this far north. They're beautiful, a bit like a crepe myrtle and a wax myrtle mixed, with bright crimson flowers.

Have you driven yours in 4 hi on dry pavement? Mine doesn't like it at all, maybe due to the limited slip. Anyway, I don't think traction is going to be the issue, rather a lack of power. But hey, I'm adventurous and confident in my truck... Now to just get the boss to assume some liability for my truck to tow his tractor (in case my truck breaks).




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Old 05-28-2012, 09:13 PM   #10
runningred92
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Hey EastoutWest the wiring will require a round wiring harness due to the extra crontrols needed including the brake controller box in the cab. The 4 prong is basically power ground lights turn/brake and on/off. I was saying use 4x4 for the extra power not the traction. You would have all 4 wheels pulling instead of 2 trying to move 6 wheels pushing the 2 on the truck and pulling 4 on the trailer. I am not sure of the weight needed for a distributing hitch but I would say you won't get close. Good luck getting the boss to pony up. Maybe he will sign something saying he will pay for what breaks and pay to fix it.

I love me some figs. My Granny lived in North Georgia and had a large farm with a few dozen fig and peach trees. Nothing better than either straight from the tree. Of course when I was a child they were still in olden times even for the late 70s early 80s and grew/killed all their food so everything was absolutely freaking delicious when she cooked. Hows about sending me a couple boxes of fruit when it is fresh,lol would be nice though.---Andrew
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:25 PM   #11
acschilling
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West, I towed my fiances dad's Ram in my 92. Those come off the line between 4400 and 6000lbs. I also have a 5 speed and 3.73s (I believe) I saw a chart on this site that said with these specs 2600lbs was what the Ex could handle. Sounds low for what's being talked about. I have to say the tow was a slight struggle. It was about 5 miles and didn't go over 20mph or higher than 2nd. I am running 31s, didn't think to put it in 4hi. That may have made it easier. Slow accel for sure, the Ram breaked for me at stops though so can't say about that.
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:44 PM   #12
EastoutWest
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Yeah, I saw that chart too. Bah humbug, 2600. That's ridiculous. I've towed that in scrap, plus the trailer. You could feel the weight and the trailer was overloaded but the truck had the power and control to handle it.

Did you use a tow bar with a rider in the ram? I can see how it would have been hairy. My tires are only 1/2" shorter than 31s so I don't think I'll have an advantage there.

I guess the lesson here is to get a brake controller, drive sensibly, inflate my tires...




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Old 05-28-2012, 09:51 PM   #13
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Can someone explain to me the logic behind using 4hi to increase power? That seems counter-intuitive to me. Doesn't 4 hi have the same final drive ratio as 2 hi? If traction is not a concern, I would think driving the front wheels would actually reduce hp to the ground due to mechanical losses. Ford didn't even offer 4wd on its duallies for a while. In tractor pulling, the front wheels are off the ground most of the time.

I'm not trying to be a jerk or a know-it-all, just seeking clarification.




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Old 05-28-2012, 09:53 PM   #14
Chris_94
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I pulled a 21 foot dovetail trailer that was loaded with my 1984 T-Bird turbo coupe from my house to a friends house................ ONCE. It was about 15 miles. It was probably beyond the safety limits of the truck and certainly well past my personal limits. I drove pretty slow and looked well ahead to try and time the stop lights. Only hit a couple red lights. Stopping was alright due to a tongue actuated hydraulic braking system on the trailer. But it was still nerve racking because it has to push on the truck before there's enough pressure to activate the hydraulic brake system. It was kind of an emergency situation and we had to get it done that day or it wasn't gonna happen.

I don't have a trailer package (not to my knowledge) or load levers. We parked the T-Bird on the trailer so there was only about 250-300lbs of tongue weight. Trailer weighed 2850lbs. I dunno what a T-Bird weighs. 2900lbs?

I would NOT do that again.
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:58 PM   #15
Chasethexplorer
Austin, Texas
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I have a 99 sohc 5speed manual with 3.73's and 33's, I towed a 2001 chevy 2500 HD with an 8.1 liter in it which probably weighs 6000 lb at least. Only problem I had was I burned my clutch pretty good trying to get moving fairly quickly, but I would blame that on being undergeared with 33's, I had good power still though. Oh I just saw that about driving in 4 hi, do not ever do that on pavement, it will grenade your transfer case, you will not have a problem with traction on pavent, plus as someone else said 4 hi would not increase power anyway, as it has the same final drive, now if they meant to say low range, if you have manual hubs as I do you can unlock them and put it in low range so you have 2 low, but your top speed will only be like 20, in 5th at 2500 rpm or so, I used 2 low tow that 2500 when we were off road, because there were hills and bad roads.
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:58 PM   #16
rickybobby
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I have pulled just over 5k with my 97 with 3.73 gears and 32" tires. it stopped ok but trailer brakes would have been nice. taking off from a dead stop took some work to not burn up the trans but once it got moving it did fine




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Old 05-29-2012, 12:26 AM   #17
Maniak
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Unless your trying to start out in a low traction area like a boat ramp using 4 hi wont help. In fact, using 4hi on pavement will at best break the hubs with all the driveline wind up you will get.

It doesnt take much of a turn to get the driveline to bind and if the tires dont slip to relieve the bind then some other part is going to give.

~Mark




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Old 05-29-2012, 02:05 PM   #18
acschilling
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Chris_94 I'm with you, it was kinda an emergency and would probably never pull that weight again...poor clutch and brakes. Yikes!
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:31 PM   #19
kevinjj79
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The ratings noted in the owners manuel for max trailer weight are talking about max trailer to be towed on a daily basis, not to overload the transmission, engine, and brakes and to keep your truck safe on the whole. Ford is going to error on the side of caution for liability and warranty reasons. If you wreck your truck with a trailer that is way too heavy your insurance company might deny your claim due to neglect, or you may be sued by another party for damages. Its not a good idea to ever tow a trailer that weighs more that the truck anyhow just for plain safety. There are videos on you tube of f150 and chevy 1500 getting pulled off the side of the highway by thier travel trailers that should be hooked to a one ton truck not a half ton. Of course a truck will tow more tan those specs but you jeoperdize your rig to premature wear and the safety of yourself and everyone on the road. BE SMART AND BE SAFE #1
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