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| Modified 1991-1994 Explorers Questions concerning modifications to the 1991-1994 Explorer, Mountaineer, Ranger and Navajo. Aftermarket accessories and modifications. Bullbar, running boards, floor mats, cargo mat, DVD headrest, wheels, tires, stereo upgrade, headlights, mud flaps, lift kits, engine swap, transmission swap. |
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#1 |
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Wannabe Elite Explorer
Mount Vernon Ohio
1993 Ford Explorer XLT
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Hey guys, I would like to install a set of Driving lights on my 93 EX. I would like to hook them right into the stock headlight harness so that they turn on when the headlights are on but only on low beam. I have been told that its illegal for driving lights to be on at the same time as your high beams. I would first like to know if that is possible, are the low beams and high beams on a separate circuit. I did this once on a 95 Chevy Beretta and it was simple because one light was low beam and one was high so i just wired it to the low beam, but the EX's bulbs are dual beam bulbs. If someone could point me in the direction of a wiring guide for the headlights that would be great or if anyone has any other ideas that would also be great, i would like to avoid hooking this up on a toggle switch too cause face it that's just dorky.
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#2 |
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GREEN SCREAM!!
Hattiesburg, MS
'93 Sport 4x4
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Driving lights are made to supplement high beams. They can be used off road or on two-lane roads in the same situations as when you can use high beams - only when there is no other traffic.
It is against the law in all 50 states and most countries to use driving lights when there is other traffic for the same reason as using high beams - they will blind other drivers. For this reason, driving lights are usually required to be wired with high beams. If you want to use lights for general driving with other traffic, you will need fog lights. There are seperate wires for the high and low beams coming out of each headlamp bulb socket, just use a connector to splice into the correct wire and run that to the relay and it will make it so the lights only come on with the high/low beams. You'll need a toggle switch, too. Making it so the lights, even fogs, are always on with no way to switch them off , will burn the bulbs out quickly, as they aren't meant to have a long life or be used constantly like headlights. __________________ "I think man has always gone where he has been able to go, and I think that when man stops going where he can go, he will have lost a lot. Man has always been an explorer. To me, there's a fascination in thrusting out and going to new places. It's like going through a door because you find the door in front of you." - Michael Collins |
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#3 |
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Wannabe Elite Explorer
Mount Vernon Ohio
1993 Ford Explorer XLT
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thanks man
sorry i didnt respond back earlier, we got hit by that shit storm that hit the midwest and atlantic states. lost power friday and just got it back tonight. Thanks for all the tips, i will make sure to buy the yellowish "fog" lights instead of the clear driving lights. I also would like to know how Dodge gets away with putting lights under the bumper of their new trucks that are on with low beams. they seem to do the exact opposite of what you say, they are one with low beams then shut off with high beams. Anyways thanks for the advice ill do a write up for this when i do the job for anyone that is interested, i should do this in about a week or so whenever i get all the supplies i.e lights.
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#4 |
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GREEN SCREAM!!
Hattiesburg, MS
'93 Sport 4x4
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Fog lights don't have to be yellow. Almost all factory fog lights are clear. You can get yellow fogs if you like them better, though. Some people swear they do better in rain and certain weather, some people think it's just because the yellow lens filter causes a drop in output. Both work fine, pick what you like best.
The lights Dodge and every other manufacturer puts on the bumper of the vehicles are fog lights. That's why they are wired to only come on with the low beams, because that's actually a law in a lot of states, that fog lamps can only be used in addition to low beams. (the funny part is, the whole purpose of fog lights was to take the place of headlights in fog, with them being mounted lower to go under the fog and illuminate the road with a lot less glare back in the eyes of the driver) So, if you get fog lights, and wire them to only go on with the low beams, it'll be the same thing as a factory fog light setup. __________________ "I think man has always gone where he has been able to go, and I think that when man stops going where he can go, he will have lost a lot. Man has always been an explorer. To me, there's a fascination in thrusting out and going to new places. It's like going through a door because you find the door in front of you." - Michael Collins |
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#5 |
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Elite Explorer
South FL
93 Sport 2WD 5 speed
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On my other car my fogs are always on with the headlights. I get decent bulb life. I use yellow bulbs as well. On the dark FL roads they definitely help me see.
Driving lights I think are fine on a X to supplement the headlights. The stock headlights suck in light output. I have used them on a past X & no one ever gave me any grief. Aim them right & you won't have a problem. |
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#6 |
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GREEN SCREAM!!
Hattiesburg, MS
'93 Sport 4x4
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There are some dinky driving lights that might be ok, but they are still annoying and could be dangerous. They could also get you a ticket with a hefty fine.
Using better bulbs like Sylvania XtraVision or Philips Hi-Visibility is the way to get better headlight output. You can also get a relay harness or make one and get even better output with the upgraded bulbs. Fogs make okay auxiliary headlights, but they also give false confidence like HIDs since they do light up the road, but at a very short distance ahead. It's better to only use auxiliary lamps when they are necessary, rather than as a fix to poor headlight output. __________________ "I think man has always gone where he has been able to go, and I think that when man stops going where he can go, he will have lost a lot. Man has always been an explorer. To me, there's a fascination in thrusting out and going to new places. It's like going through a door because you find the door in front of you." - Michael Collins |
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#7 |
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Wannabe Elite Explorer
Mount Vernon Ohio
1993 Ford Explorer XLT
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finally found some!!
Well guys thanks for all the advice. I finally found a set that I think will work and i like them. They are at my local AutoZone and are made by a company call "Pilot" They're cheap which is good, only $19.99 and they come with everything you need, wireing harness, toggle switch, directions and screws and stuff. They are adjustable up and down and they have a "simulated HID effect" (basically they give off a soft blue light) they are deemed a "fog" light so if I get pulled over I can argue my case. By the way, my area has a huge problem with bored cops, hence my constant worrying about cop attention. You can get pulled over for having sub woofers pounding at 1pm here. In case anyone wants to check these lights out for themselves the part number on AutoZones website is PL-2074B Here in a week or so I will do a write up of the installation with pictures if anyone is interested in seeing it. Thanks again for all of the advice guys.
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#8 |
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Exploring Solid Axles
Battle Creek, mi
'97 XLT
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make sure you wire them with a relay, even if the kit doesnt include one, most aftermarket fogs will burn up the switch that the come with
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#9 |
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GREEN SCREAM!!
Hattiesburg, MS
'93 Sport 4x4
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Only problem with the PL-2074B pilots is the blue lens filter. It might put out amber light, but at some angles it still could look blue. If it looks blue and a cop sees it you might have a problem.
Pilot makes their PL-2055C fog/driving lights which are very, very similar. They used to have a driving pattern but now they have a fog pattern. ![]() Just an idea if you want clear lights. Autozone should have these as well. The pilots are okay but come with sucky dinky wiring. Get a wiring kit or make up your own with some wires, a relay, and a fuse. You might also want to seal up the rubber bulb cover with some black silicone if they are in a location that might get wet. __________________ "I think man has always gone where he has been able to go, and I think that when man stops going where he can go, he will have lost a lot. Man has always been an explorer. To me, there's a fascination in thrusting out and going to new places. It's like going through a door because you find the door in front of you." - Michael Collins |
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#10 |
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Wannabe Elite Explorer
pearl city, hi
92 Eddie Bauer 4X$
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I am about thing about finally installing some myself and i was planning on some similar to the pilots. I have seen the rectangular fog/driving lights at wal-mart and oreily's. If i end up doing this i will install them in the front valance and wire them to a relay and 30 amp fuse to the battery terminal with a switch somewhere near my rear wiper switch or below my steering wheel. I have been wanting to do this for a while. It seems the simplest and cheapest. Just a thought.
__________________ 92 eddie bauer alpine deck reverse glow gauges custom vinyl flooring flowmaster 40 series wood dash interior custom air intake modded throttle body when you play play hard, when you work don't play as much...unless you love your job |
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#11 |
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Elite Explorer
Denver Colorado
'93 Explorer XLT
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I know it's been said before, but if you are having crappy headlight woes, the best thing is to fix it, not add a bandaid. I added PIAA driving and PIAA fogs, and they both have their uses, but the best thing that I did was rebuild my headlamps. That means aftermarket lenses, relay harness, fuses, and the 9007 bulb upgrade. All said and done it cost me less than what one of my light sets cost, but is infinitely more useful.
I also put my driving and fog switches on the dash, below the wiper control switches, to keep the lameness down but give me direct control over my lighting. And yes, in some ice storms, I've found it totally useful to run the fogs and driving lights, with my headlights off. |
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#12 | |
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Exploring Solid Axles
Battle Creek, mi
'97 XLT
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Quote:
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#13 |
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Wannabe Elite Explorer
Mount Vernon Ohio
1993 Ford Explorer XLT
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Thanks Naasau and Ricky for all of the advice but faded or low headlight output are not the problems with my X. When I got my X it had been sitting in a field for two years, the headlights were faded and yellowish and they sucked. After a loose and half fallen out bulb melted my passenger side I went to the local pick and pull and picked up two donor lights out of a rolled X and went to town on them with 3M's headlight restoration kit that I picked up at AutoZone for $29.95. After an hour on my apartment floor with a cordless drill I had a crystal clear pair of headlights, couple those with Silverstar Bulbs (not Ultras just the regular Silverstars) I now have lights probably better than when the X rolled off the assembly line. I want fog lights simply because I live in a hilly, remote area with lots of low lying valleys. This year has been far worse than any i can remember for fog. I get annoyed when i have to slow down and drive cautiously and a once 20 minute drive is turned into a 40 minute drive simply because I cant see. Hopefully for anyone reading this that is experiencing crappy headlight output, maybe my story can help.
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#14 |
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Exploring Solid Axles
Battle Creek, mi
'97 XLT
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If that is the case, i suggest factory fogs and having a body shop aim your headlights and fogs, replacement lenses never seem to be aimed quite the same and a body shop can usually aim them far better than you just because they have proper equipment for it
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#15 |
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Wannabe Elite Explorer
Mount Vernon Ohio
1993 Ford Explorer XLT
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I will probably do the same thing i did when i put my new headlights in, I drove to the nearest Highway Patrol post and had a trooper assist me in adjusting them, i did the adjustment and he sat in his cruiser and told me when they were where they need to be, I just wish my local PD was as cool as the state boys so i wont have to drive as far haha.
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#16 | |
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Exploring Solid Axles
Battle Creek, mi
'97 XLT
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Quote:
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#17 |
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Wannabe Elite Explorer
Mount Vernon Ohio
1993 Ford Explorer XLT
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Yeah after working at AutoZone in the commercial department for 2 years I was flat out disgusted with the nasty dirty tricks that most shops do to people to bilk them out of money for stuff. I try and do as many things as I can by myself. The only thing I am not going to attempt to do is the engine work that this X needs, it has a god awful valve or lifter tick that needs repaired, and it needs a valve cover gasket that is leaking like a sieve, and of course is it leaking on the drivers side, heck no, its leaking on the passenger side where you need to take the intake off. I have no idea what im doing when it comes to engine work so im stepping back and letting a professional take care of all that stuff.
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#18 |
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Elite Explorer
Denver Colorado
'93 Explorer XLT
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Honestly, if you can do electrical, then engine work will come easy. There are step by step instructions of damn near anything already on this site, it's just plug and chug.
It may seem intimidating at first, but if you do it yourself, at least you know it's done right. |
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#19 | |
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Elite Explorer
So.Calif.(San Fernando Valley)
'94 Ranger, '90 Bronco II
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Quote:
A true fog light has a shield covering the bulb to reduce glare from light emitted upward (which I don't see on those). __________________ '90 Bronco II XLT 5" lift (Skyjacker jeep coils), locked D35 & 8.8", 5.13s, double T-case, 35x12.50s & cut fenders '94 Ranger XLT 6" Skyjacker, ARB D44 front, Detroit 8.8" rear, Atlas 4.3, 33s |
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#20 |
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Elite Explorer
Denver Colorado
'93 Explorer XLT
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Not always. For instance, my fogs have no bulb shield, and work wonderfully in fog, with minimal scattering outside of their range.
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