Warn Hubs and Torquing Wheel Bearings

[mechjames]

I just did my front wheel bearings again tonight. I did them about a year ago as well. Is it possible i'm not torquing the bearings correctly? They we're really burnt, and the inner one was stuck to the spindle again.

I'm following the instructions as per the Warn Spindle Nut Conversion kit. Torque to 35 ft-lbs and then back off 90 degrees.

The bearings seem really tight, but i'm not too happy about the backing of the 90 degrees part. Is this normal while torquing wheel bearings?

[rileyrs]

several bearing procedures call for this. how are you packing them with grease?

[Brian1]

Yes that is the proper procedure for the inner nut. The torque is to seat the bearing then you back it off to give it the proper preload. If it is too tight maybe the inner nut rotated while you were torquing the outer nut? That sometimes happens to me.

[mechjames]

Originally Posted by rileyrs

several bearing procedures call for this. how are you packing them with grease?

As much as humanly possible

[mechjames]

Originally Posted by Brian1

Yes that is the proper procedure for the inner nut. The torque is to seat the bearing then you back it off to give it the proper preload. If it is too tight maybe the inner nut rotated while you were torquing the outer nut? That sometimes happens to me.

I don't see how that is possible with the warn it. The little pin on the inner nut lines up with the washer and locks with the keyway on the axle.

I don't remember changing the wheel dust seal on the back when I did it last time. I changed them both this time.

It also looked really dirty in the hub side. I'm wondering if it is possible that while switching a tire at one time, the hub o-ring sort of fell off and wasn't installed correctly.

Good to know that the preload is set properly.

[Maniak]

The little washer with the holes can move in the keyway some which allows it to tighten up some. Also, its easy to break or knock in the pins on the bigger nuts which allows them to turn independant of the holed washer.

~Mark

[4x4junkie]

Agreed, I've had the tab try to ride up out of the spindle groove once also (damaging the threads in the process, allowing it to ride up that much easier on subsequent tightenings).
Fortunately it's pretty easy to see if this has happened by the inner nut turning with the outer nut.

The way I do mine:
Tighten inner nut to 35ft-lbs
Back off ½ turn,
Retighten to 15 INCH-lbs (or about hand tight with the socket)
Install locking ring (flip it over if the pin doesn't line up, do not turn the nut)
Tighten outer nut to 225-250ft-lbs, making sure the inner nut doesn't turn with it.

[mechjames]

Originally Posted by 4x4junkie

Agreed, I've had the tab try to ride up out of the spindle groove once also (damaging the threads in the process, allowing it to ride up that much easier on subsequent tightenings).
Fortunately it's pretty easy to see if this has happened by the inner nut turning with the outer nut.

The way I do mine:
Tighten inner nut to 35ft-lbs
Back off ½ turn,
Retighten to 15 INCH-lbs (or about hand tight with the socket)
Install locking ring (flip it over if the pin doesn't line up, do not turn the nut)
Tighten outer nut to 225-250ft-lbs, making sure the inner nut doesn't turn with it.

I pretty much do the same, except I only back off 90 degrees (1/4 turn) so that would just about account for your 1/2 turn and tightning hand tight.

Except tighting the outer nut to 225-250 ft lbs. I followed the instructions and tightened it to 85 ft lbs.

[nitro71]

I take it you replaced the race also? I use a differenty method myself. I tighten them up till I don't get any wheel wobble and it still spins smoothly. If it feels to tight I back it off till it smooths out again. I know, unscientific.

[Maniak]

Thats more how I do it now..

I tighten the inner nut a bunch then back it off then hand tighten it (no socket). Then I put on the washer then the outer nut and crank down on the outer nut. I don't have the pins in my nuts anymore and I watch the inner nut. It can move a "little" but if it moves too much I use a punch and hammer to knock it back a hair.

Its more by "feel" now than any torque method. If I use the proper technique they come loose too quickly with 33's.

~Mark

[Riceburner247]

Originally Posted by Maniak

Thats more how I do it now..

I tighten the inner nut a bunch then back it off then hand tighten it (no socket). Then I put on the washer then the outer nut and crank down on the outer nut. I don't have the pins in my nuts anymore and I watch the inner nut. It can move a "little" but if it moves too much I use a punch and hammer to knock it back a hair.

Its more by "feel" now than any torque method. If I use the proper technique they come loose too quickly with 33's.

~Mark

Lol, 33's with 3.75" offset here. I tighten the inner so that there is a slight drag, then tighten the outer using my 1/2 drive impact gun on the highest setting. Done this procedure so many times now, it's like clockwork.

[adamsbro2]

Ok. question then? Im running 35s is there a wheel bearing thats better than the next? In the past ive only put on the cheapo bearings and they lasted fine but i have ruined the passenger 2 weeks after the lift and tires, then today lost the drivers side!! I guess i need to look into what grease i use and what bearings i get cause im sure ill be replacing the spindle on the drivers side this time!

[Flip4ford]

Temeber not to greaese the actual spindle where the bearing rides. I tighted mine outer to 150lbs that's according the chilton's.

[Anime]

Originally Posted by adamsbro2

Ok. question then? Im running 35s is there a wheel bearing thats better than the next? In the past ive only put on the cheapo bearings and they lasted fine but i have ruined the passenger 2 weeks after the lift and tires, then today lost the drivers side!! I guess i need to look into what grease i use and what bearings i get cause im sure ill be replacing the spindle on the drivers side this time!

Timken, SKF, National all make great bearings and seals. Any brand name high-temp wheel bearing grease that meets NLGI #2 and API GL-5/GC-LB should do the job well if you pack the bearings good and put enough in the seal as well. I like the Castrol grease but even store brand grease is good if it meets the specs.

If you have 35's you just need to keep up with the wheel bearing torque and make sure nothing is coming loose. It's a really good idea to jack up the wheel/tire and check for bearing play after installing bearings and having driven for awhile, or just as a safety precaution after some heavy trail use or even just every so often.

[4x4junkie]

I use Timken bearings (SET-37). Never have had any issues with them using the tightening sequence I posted earlier above.