rear struts

[esclamada]

Originally Posted by dorin18

How in the world would you remove the top nuts if one of them seems impossible to reach (at least with any sort of tool I have)?
This is what I have on My '04 Explorer:



And a more detailed view:



Is the dealer my only option? Anybody saw this kind of setup before?

I believe those are just covers for the nut, you could try prying out the top portion to expose the nut and once you remove the 2 nuts it will just come out. The 2002 has no nut covers (it's just bolted on by 2 nuts) I just cleaned it up and re-install it.


http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=3&theater



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MY MOUNTY
http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer?sk=photos

[doug625]

Originally Posted by dorin18

How in the world would you remove the top nuts if one of them seems impossible to reach (at least with any sort of tool I have)?
This is what I have on My '04 Explorer:



And a more detailed view:



Is the dealer my only option? Anybody saw this kind of setup before?

I had to use a combination of a small hacksaw, and a dremel. I ground down the bolt from the underside of the top boot until I could pry it and break it apart. It takes some time. You should be able to get to all of them with that ratcheting wrench and if rust ain't an issue that's all you need.

[JoshMcMadMac]

Originally Posted by dorin18

How in the world would you remove the top nuts if one of them seems impossible to reach (at least with any sort of tool I have)?

An open-end wrench can get it done. A ratcheting combination wrench makes the job pretty easy, which is what I did and would recommend. A small set of ratcheting wrenches may not be cheap, but they are well worth it.

[dorin18]

I see that the pictures are gone and some people cannot understand the situation just by reading my previous post. One of the nuts was obstructed by some sort of buffer (for what??) made of metal covered with rubber. I couldn’t even see the nut and it was impossible to reach it with any kind of wrench or socket. I could barely touch it with my fingers.
I took this piece/buffer out with a hammer and a chisel, by hitting it in the lower, exterior corner. It started to turn and it came of the bolt easily (the hole on the bottom of it is u-shaped, so it could slide out). After that there was no problem in reaching the nut.
If you do not remove this piece, I BELIEVE you can have $10,000 worth of tools and still not be able to get to this one nut in a non-destructive way. I have no clue how Ford tightens this nut (maybe they do it before welding some parts of the frame)…

[JoshMcMadMac]

Originally Posted by dorin18

I see that the pictures are gone and some people cannot understand the situation just by reading my previous post. One of the nuts was obstructed by some sort of buffer (for what??) made of metal covered with rubber. I couldn’t even see the nut and it was impossible to reach it with any kind of wrench or socket. I could barely touch it with my fingers.
I took this piece/buffer out with a hammer and a chisel, by hitting it in the lower, exterior corner. It started to turn and it came of the bolt easily (the hole on the bottom of it is u-shaped, so it could slide out). After that there was no problem in reaching the nut.
If you do not remove this piece, I BELIEVE you can have $10,000 worth of tools and still not be able to get to this one nut in a non-destructive way. I have no clue how Ford tightens this nut (maybe they do it before welding some parts of the frame)…

It is the bump-stop. It prevents over-travel of the suspension. I got around it just fine with a ratcheting combination wrench. It certainly was not the easiest of jobs, but it is very much achievable.

[wheelin'explorer]

Recieved my front struts yesterday! Only bad part was the company sent me the wrong ones! I ordered the QuickStruts, and Econo-Matics showed up! Now time to wait a little longer for my quickstruts!

[BigRondo]

Patience Grasshopper..................

[wheelin'explorer]

Originally Posted by BigRondo

Patience Grasshopper..................

That virtue i lack........

[wheelin'explorer]

Look what UPS brought me!

[wheelin'explorer]

Anyone know the torque specs on the bolts for the struts for our trucks?

[Ronin8002]

According to Alldatadiy.com:

Nuts on top that attach strut to frame (front and rear): 22 ft/lbs
Swaybar end links (front and rear): 18 ft/lbs
Bolt/nut through lower strut mounting eye (front): 258 ft/lbs
Upper ball joint nut (front): 41 ft/lbs
Bolt that connects lower brake caliper and lower control arm (rear): 111 ft/lbs
Bolt/nut through lower strut mounting eye (rear): 184 ft/lbs

[Huskerbob]

I just ordered 2 rear complete assemblies from Struttek and will get them on next weekend. My springs look brand new but I think my cartridges are dead so I'm going with complete units to get new rubbers etc. 2003 model year with 118,000 on it and they look like the original equipment but with a harsh ride and a few bumps and knocks from the rear I think it's a good idea.

[wheelin'explorer]

Ronin thanks! I got all four of my new Quickstruts installed, only took myself and a friend just under three hours to have all four in and headed to get my alignment. Happy so far with the ride!

[wheelin'explorer]

Well now that the Quickstruts have been in long enough for me to get some driving in on them, I'm really happy with the ride. I can tell a major difference in the back when i hit bumps, not as harsh as it was before. The fronts feel smooth. My Ex is no doubt riding a lot smoother than when I bought it. I'm very pleased with the ride.

[Huskerbob]

I got the rears done this morning. Not too bad a job. I used an offset ratcheting 13mm wrench I bought in a kit at Harbor Freight for the top nuts. Worked like a charm. Toe compensator links were the hardest part and I need to replace both of those. Using a pickle fork damages them but I don't see any other way to get them loose. I used the complete assemblies from Struttek and they really improved the ride. No more harshness on bumps. Fronts next weekend. Then that little water leak under the alternator.

[FordFool2]

It must take one special tool to loosen the strut nut holding down the cushion/isolator. None of my 13 mm sockets, no matter what the drive could be fitted on the nut and also be able to get a ratchet in there. No way to get a wrench in there either. So, the sawzall came out and cut that darn thing up.

I really see no need for it going forward. The top of the stud height is determined by the frame. Above it is the body/chassis. Since there should be little to no movement between the body and frame (except of body isolator flex), I can't figure how the body will every kiss the top of this stud.

I think the cushion played more of a role when the body was lowered and installed onto the frame while on the assembly line.

[rocco123]

Just an FYI, you can access the nuts from eng compartment for the fronts when you get there Husker

[Huskerbob]

Originally Posted by rocco123

Just an FYI, you can access the nuts from eng compartment for the fronts when you get there Husker

Yes sir. Super easy with a 24" extension on a 3/8" drive socket and a swivel. Took about 1/2 hour per side. It's nice to do most of the work in a standing position or at least sitting on my 5 gallon bucket.

I did a write up and posted it on the site. Gravity is your friend on the fronts. Just let them drop down through the lower control arm and then wiggle them out, top end first.