seriously desperate

[shinta]

So this is my situation. When I drive my truck in 100 degree wheather after about 20-30 min it wants to die. It starts to idle low then when I give it gas it just dies. I have posted several times and have recieved lots of help put the problem is still there. My most recent change was a fuel pump and it seemed to fix the problem but tonight. It struck again. And I love this truck but I think I might have to get rid of her. Please someone help me.

[Themightyquinn]

Does your temp gauge show hotter than normal coolant temp?

[shinta]

No. Never gets hot stays well within normal.

This is crazy my wife said would all these cracks in the fan cause the rest of the engine to get hot and cause things not to work.

So could it cause my maf sensor to get to hot and maybe quit working.

[Anime]

Clogged fuel filter maybe?

You might want to keep your problems all in one thread in the stock 91-94 forum for the best shot at troubleshooting until you find out what it is. Random threads in the wrong forum aren't going to get you as many helpful replies and will keep the previous info scattered around, making it harder for those who want to help you to know what you've already tried.

[shinta]

Ok, thanks for the tip. I just grt so frustraed and get online and post.

[Dano!]

Hey there,
I noticed you have been around a while and have not posted very many times so i read through your other posts. you have had this problem before, you have replaced a lot of stuff and your running out of things that could be causing this. I looked into the repair manual (Pub) and naturally there isn't anything in there about operating in high temps other than you should change your oil more often. that is literally the only thing i could find that was specifically attached to operating in high temp.

> In one of your older posts a member recommended upgrading your radiator and or add another fan, did you do that? i know you have replaced your hoses, and that charcoal canister. When it comes to vapor lock issues i don't think this thing is a factor.
> Did you end up replacing your computer? was it a 91 or a 94 computer? did you ever figure out your vacuum issues? put a new PCV valve in? did any of those things help?
> When you swapped the engine, did you break it open and clean it out?

When i lived in Nevada and had overheating issues i could not fix it so i pulled the thermostat out. the result was a slightly higher than normal running temp but it was constant. it never overheated. when i was transferred to California i put it back in and have not had any issues.

You have posted before during the summer that you were blowing black smoke when driving highway speeds. has this happened again? when is the last time you swapped your spark plugs / wires? could you just be dumping fuel? no spark? melted wires?

If in the past you were dumping fuel and it was getting into your catalytic converter, you could have messed that thing up. The thing i am getting at is your problems seem to follow either your X is overheating or your having fuel problems. those two problems could be related due to vapor locking, or something else i am not familiar withe, but at the same time you may have two completely separate problems and your looking to solve them both with one fix. tackle them separately and try and narrow it down. i worked in a squadron too, sometimes you just need to break it down to the nitty gritty.

That being said i will do some more research and try and give you ideas as they come along. Good luck, let us know everything you have done to try and fix this so we don't waste your time with the same questions as last year.

[doug625]

I was thinking vapor lock could be a possibility, is your fuel line routed correctly?

[Flip4ford]

I had a problem with the PCV vaulve causing hot oil to go onto the Idle Air Temp sensor.

[shinta]

Allright so, I replaced the radiator and never got the fan. I recently ordered one and will recieved it tomorrow. And since the engine change I have replaced o2 , tps, coolant temp sensor, air charge temp, temp switch, canister purge valve solenoid, the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pump relay, the pcm,and pcv valve,( the old one was clean and rattled). I think that covers all theo sensors except maybe the maf, which is on order and I pick up tomorrow. And this is all within the past 3 weeks.

also I would like to add when I pull codes from it with my trusty paper clip ( which I learned from you great posters on this site) all. I get is 522 mlp sensor, 565 canister purge circut failure, and 629 tcc clutch failure. Now Iam pretty sure the 522 and 629 will go away as soon as I recieve and replace my neutral saftey switch. I already changed the lock up solenoid, the 3-4 solenoid and the modulator. Tranni tranni excellent bett3r than ever. So that's why I think that. Also replaced the purge canister, so i dont know why I still have the 565.

As far as I can tell the.vacume system is set up right. When I get off duty in the morning iam gonna check out the vacume test set from az and see how that pans out. As for the thermostate if done that before and nothing has changed, and like I said the truck stays well with in normal, and when I turn the ac one it will move to the l of normal but never gets hot.


The black smoke ended up being a over serviced tranni, I mean transmission. We drained it and reserviced and it was good, also repositioned the dipstick tube.

Spark plugs where changed with the new engine. I got new plugs wires. As for opening the engine I did not. We thought that it only having 44000 miles vs the 360000, the previous motor had a good flush would be ok.

With all that being said Iam sure my problem has to be with the truck itself and not the engine. I mean how could the problem still be there if the engine and most of its sensors have been changed. Tomorrow after duty Iam installing new maf sensor, and a electric pushed fan, and doing a vacum test.

For Doug and flip I am pretty sure my fuel lines are ran correctly, and no hot oil getting on it.

[tweakedlogic]

Have you replaced the water pump? I didn't see it listed.

[shinta]

No I didn't. The motor has low miles and she Dosent get hot so I didn't think I needed to.

[shinta]

Latest development, truck no longer starts

[Naasau]

What are the no start symptoms? Did you get the neutral safety switch replaced? Have you started running down the possibility of CPU/wiring errors?

Afterthought: Have you pulled the battery and had it tested?

[shinta]

Still waiting for the switch to make here. But the no start is not from that. It cranks but wont start. I can hear the pump working, so I dont think its fuel.

As for the pcm I haven't tried looking into that yet, plus its less than 2 weeks old. I know its seated correctly. And when it comes to electrical i have no idea what iam doing. I bought a multimeter and took ot out to the truck and then just stared at it, like my wife stars at me when I talk about my job. Lol.

Yeah had the battery checked when I went to pick up my new maf sensor.

Right now Iam looking only the ignition module.

[Naasau]

These issues can be damned hard to track down, my X was laid up for almost 8 months a few years back because I just couldn't find my wiring issue.

Basically, what I did to find my issue was to pull out a few wiring diagrams that detailed the pin outs and wire colors of the effected sensors, then I made some extended probes for my DVOM, and checked each wire, one by one, for breaks or excess resistance (impedance). You use the Ohms setting, and more is bad in this instance. I also eliminated variables by getting duplicate computer components and swapping them one by one, so coil pack, crankshaft position sensor, ignition control module, and primary control module, etc. Remember, just because a part is new doesn't mean that it works.

I learned how yo do all of this on this site... so there has to be a instruction thread on it somewhere. I'll see if I can find it when I'm at a real computer.

[shinta]

Ok so I replaced all 3 relays under my fuse box, the fuel pump relay, the ecm relay, and whatever that 3rd one was.lol. put the fuel pressure test set on and cycled it to 30 psi roughly. Truck started. Kept the test set on had 31 psi. Let it run for 30 min was still good so I took it for a 30 mile Cruz in 97 degree heat. Cam home shut it off turned it on a couple of times woth the pressure test set on all was good at 31 psi. Went in the house hung out for an hour and a half go back out temp is now 104 start of watched the pressure and after 3 min pressure drops yo 18 truck dies. And won't start back up.

Does this sound like a fue
l pressure grip or a sensor. Last night I read that pumps from autozone are garbage and to go with napa. I got this pump from az last week and it ran great for 5 days then it died. So Iam thinking get new pump from napa, replace fpr, and fuel filter. And try to clean my lines some how.

Need some ideas please

[Dano!]

You may have an electrical issue. When you pull your fuel sending unit out, look at the bottom (fuel tank side) look where the wires go through the sending unit cap. There are plastic bushings preventing the wires from grounding out. Mine were damaged and would allow my truck to drive but would ground out every day randomly. And i would have to let the truck sit and cool down before starting it again.

It may be a bad ground. Yes your fuel pump runs but it doesn't necessarily need 12 v to run. If your ground is corroded or frayed, it may not Be good enough to let 12 v to pass through.

I had this issue and i fixed it permanently by splicing a second ground to the frame right behind the fuel tank. If you are interested in doing this i can take pictures.

This is my old thread that dealt with what i am talking about.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=298272

-Dano

[shinta]

So after reading up on what dano passed and some other threads I started looking in to battery cables to start with. My positive cable was changed out last year but I looked it over anyway and it was good. Then I peeled the protective cover of to expose the cable and it was white, like inside of Charlie sheens nose white. Also had several cracks and where wire was exposed it was the same way. So I swapped that out. And for the first time ever in113 degree weather it started right up. So maybe that was it. In a way I hope not, cause I've dumped close to 2000$ into this,and if a 8$ cable fixs it Iam pretty sure my wife will gut me and post the pics on this website,lol. But seriously I am kinda scared.

So wish me luck, it should be another hot one today so Iam gonna fill the tank and drive til she dies or I need gas.

[Themightyquinn]

Charlie Sheen's nose white. Lol

[Naasau]

Just tell her that the symptoms subsided.... donno why. ;-)

Besides, you've done some awesome preventative maintenance.