Torsion Bar Removal and Installation FMC Spec's

*Campo* · 06-15-2003, 12:19 AM

OK all,

I was able to acuire info, from a very trusted and loyal FMC Senior Master Mechanic, so I'm posting the R&R of Torsion Bars FMC style and spec's

Enjoy...

SECTION 204-01A: Front Suspension — 4x2 1999 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 11/28/2001

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bar —Torsion

Special Tool(s) Bolt Set
T96T-5310-B
Torsion Bar Tool
T95T-5310-AR

Removal

WARNING: The electrical power to the air suspension system must be shut off prior to hoisting, jacking or towing an air suspension vehicle. This can be accomplished by turning off the air suspension switch located in the rear jack storage area. Failure to do so can result in unexpected inflation or deflation of the air springs or shocks, which can result in shifting of the vehicle during these operations.

Raise the vehicle on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02.
Remove the torsion bar cover plate.
Remove the torsion bar cover plate bolts.
Remove the torsion bar cover plate.

NOTE: Before relieving the torsion bar tension, measure and record the measurement of the torsion bar adjustment bolt. This measurement will be used as the preset depth for the new torsion bar adjustment bolt during installation.

Make preliminary adjustment references.
Measure and record the length where indicated.

Relieve the torsion bar tension.
Position the Torsion Bar Tool and adapters.
Tighten the Torsion Bar Tool until the torsion bar adjuster lifts off the adjustment bolt.

CAUTION: The torsion bar adjustment bolt is coated with dry adhesive and must be replaced if it is backed off or removed. Failure to do so can cause the adjustment bolt to loosen during operation and cause a loss of vehicle alignment.

Remove the torsion bar adjustment bolt and nut.

Loosen the Torsion Bar Tool until the tension is removed from the torsion bar.

Remove the torsion bar.
Mark the torsion bar and the adjuster for proper installation.
Remove the torsion bar insulator.
Grasp the torsion bar and pull it free from the front suspension lower arm.

Installation

Position the torsion bar and the torsion bar adjuster.

Install the torsion bar adjuster.
Align the marks on the torsion bar and the torsion bar adjuster, then install the torsion bar adjuster.
Position the torsion bar insulator.

CAUTION: The torsion bar adjustment bolt is coated with dry adhesive and must be replaced if it is backed off or removed. Failure to do so can cause the adjustment bolt to loosen during operation and cause a loss of vehicle alignment.

Preload the torsion bar.
Install the Torsion Bar Tool and the adapters.
Tighten the Torsion Bar Tool until the new adjustment bolt and nut can be installed.
Turn the adjustment bolt until the preliminary adjustment measurement (recorded length of the old adjustment bolt) is reached.

Remove the tool.
Install the torsion bar cover plate.
Position the torsion bar cover plate.
Install the torsion bar cover plate bolts.

NOTE: If equipped with air suspension, reactivate the system by turning on the air suspension switch.

Lower the vehicle.
Adjust the ride height. For additional information, refer to Ride Height in this section.
Check the alignment. For additional information, refer to Section 204-00.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

**JDraper** · 06-15-2003, 07:33 AM

Lemme just add a footnote to this. I just put a new set of torsion bars in an Explorer, and I would suggest not buying the torsion bar puller. You're better off buying a universal gear puller that has the capability of changing from a 3 jaw puller to a 2 jaw puller (torsion bars require the 2 jaw setup). It works just as well, costs considerably less, and has many more uses.

I was doing a 4" Superlift for a friend, and the kit was purchased with a tool just for removing and installing torsion bars. I ended up tossing that aside and using my gear puller. It was easier to use.

khoward · 02-05-2007, 10:17 AM

does a 92 4x4 have torsion bars

*Dan Whitaker* · 02-05-2007, 10:22 AM

No they don't. They have TTB Which I believe stands for Twin Traction Beam but don't quote me on that.

Search in the 91-94 Forums and you will find your answer for sure.

*tenikiwon* · 03-06-2007, 06:50 PM

Aren't there different options for torsion bars? I'd like to get stiffer ones if possible and I thought there was a post on here about them. In any case this thread would make a perfect place for that.
Reference to torsion bar codes.

bennettcl · 04-08-2007, 06:35 PM

When you say "CAUTION: The torsion bar adjustment bolt is coated with dry adhesive and must be replaced if it is backed off or removed. Failure to do so can cause the adjustment bolt to loosen during operation and cause a loss of vehicle alignment."

Does that mean replace the entire bolt???? Or do you mean make sure you put some dry adhesive on the threads before putting the bolt back in? If you mean replace the entire bolt, where can you get the new bolts at???

Bob McNabb · 05-28-2007, 09:32 PM

My torsion bar cracked while in 4wd. Road was a little rugged but not that bad. What would cause this? Metal fatigue or something? what about wear of other front end suspension parts would that cause the bar to crack? what should I look for? Link rod (that goes to lower control arm seems to have bad rubber) ANy help or suggestions would be GREAT. Can I drive the truck at low speed 6 miles to the shop without damaging anything?

97awdx · 05-29-2007, 12:42 AM

You can drive it at a very very low speed. The a-arm is going to be against the bump stop so it will ride like crap.

scruff · 07-08-2007, 01:45 PM

Bennetcl

Dry adhesive just means that bolt ius locktited in there. Ford uses this blue stuff that looks like blue paint on a lot of chassis parts, it's a pain to get them out.
So you don't need to replace the bolt, just renew the locktite.

hardywo · 09-14-2007, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDraper

[COLOR=darkblue]Lemme just add a footnote to this. I just put a new set of torsion bars in an Explorer, and I would suggest not buying the torsion bar puller. You're better off buying a universal gear puller that has the capability of changing from a 3 jaw puller to a 2 jaw puller (torsion bars require the 2 jaw setup). It works just as well, costs considerably less, and has many more uses.[COLOR]

I can get this from Harbor Freight's website for $13, well $20 with shipping...sound about right price-wise? This is what you're talking about, right? Thanks for the advice.

danrathexplorer · 11-20-2008, 08:16 PM

yo does anyone make new torsion bar keys to give more lift without having the torsion bars jacked up all the time? i know they make them for other trucks like the gm fullsize

*Cobraguy* · 11-21-2008, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDraper

Lemme just add a footnote to this. I just put a new set of torsion bars in an Explorer, and I would suggest not buying the torsion bar puller. You're better off buying a universal gear puller that has the capability of changing from a 3 jaw puller to a 2 jaw puller (torsion bars require the 2 jaw setup). It works just as well, costs considerably less, and has many more uses.

I was doing a 4" Superlift for a friend, and the kit was purchased with a tool just for removing and installing torsion bars. I ended up tossing that aside and using my gear puller. It was easier to use.

I just used a two jaw puller...not sure how to make two of a three jaw puller work where they aren't opposite each other...but regardless...Draper is dead on the money. Don't buy the special tool.

ehosterman · 12-21-2008, 06:49 PM

What size gear puller do you use?

jrjr2u · 10-02-2009, 04:02 PM

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but..... this seems an appropriate place.

I am replacing both torsion bars on a 97 sport, and putting in '1' bars. I have both rear ends loose and swinging in the breeze and now am trying to get the bars loose in front.

I have a solid bar about 4' long placed in from the front on the torsion bar and have wacked the crap out of it with about a 2 pound hammer but the bar is not moving at all.

I have sprayed with PB blaster several times.

Am I mistaken in that they should move rearward to be taken out? Should I be driving them from the rear toward the front? OR should I just get a sledge and try more force? Seems to me like heat would not be a good thing as its probably tempered in the bar seats.....

Input please!!!

*Dan Whitaker* · 10-02-2009, 04:22 PM

You need someone to hold the rear of the torsion bar up. With it dangling it is going to cause binding.

It is a pain to get them out. I would also recomend letting the PB set awhile then try it.

**Turdle** · 10-02-2009, 04:23 PM

Well, it should slide rearward. Try whacking a bit harder---

However,
My son's truck held on to the driver side bar, and wouldn't let it go even with the whole arm in my 20 ton shop press.

Sometimes they are shtuck. In this case you need a new control arm and bars

*Dan Whitaker* · 10-02-2009, 04:40 PM

If you live in snow country and they use a lot of salt you are fighting a loosing battle.

patrick112390 · 10-02-2009, 05:37 PM

you dont even have to have any puller at all... just unbolt the shock and UCA at the knuckle with the LCA supported by a jack and lower st till it droops. the bar will fall out.-----to load it up do the opposite. jack it up

jrjr2u · 10-02-2009, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turdle

Well, it should slide rearward. Try whacking a bit harder---

However,
My son's truck held on to the driver side bar, and wouldn't let it go even with the whole arm in my 20 ton shop press.

Sometimes they are shtuck. In this case you need a new control arm and bars

Thanks all for the input.

What do you all think about heating the socket? All I have is an acetylene torch (B Tank) so it's not like a cutting torch heat, but still pretty hot.....

I will move to the other side tomorrow. The PB will have had a while to soak in and see how that one goes. I will also have some help tomorrow too...

Oh, and yes, I am in upstate NY near Rochester... lots of salt on the winter roads.

Thanks again!

jrjr2u · 10-03-2009, 03:34 PM

Got them out!

Drivers side came out by heating with the acetylene torch and beating with a 10 pound mall. Couldn't get the passenger side to budge so I borrowed an oxy/acetylene torch and that did the trick.

Many thanks to my buddy that dared to hold the bar while I was taking full swings at the end!

Ex is all back together now and it seems to have worked out well. When I lift the plow now it only slightly sags.... about 2" which I deem good enough.

I set the adjuster bolts at the same length as the original and it lifted the truck one inch even by having new and stronger bars.

Ride is nice too.... firm but yet not too firm..... I am happy

06-15-2003, 12:19 AM	#1
Campo Elitus Explorus White City, KS 99 XLT 4x4 Join Date: Sep 2001 Posts: 791 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Torsion Bar Removal and Installation FMC Spec's OK all, I was able to acuire info, from a very trusted and loyal FMC Senior Master Mechanic, so I'm posting the R&R of Torsion Bars FMC style and spec's Enjoy... SECTION 204-01A: Front Suspension — 4x2 1999 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 11/28/2001 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bar —Torsion Special Tool(s) Bolt Set T96T-5310-B Torsion Bar Tool T95T-5310-AR Removal WARNING: The electrical power to the air suspension system must be shut off prior to hoisting, jacking or towing an air suspension vehicle. This can be accomplished by turning off the air suspension switch located in the rear jack storage area. Failure to do so can result in unexpected inflation or deflation of the air springs or shocks, which can result in shifting of the vehicle during these operations. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02. Remove the torsion bar cover plate. Remove the torsion bar cover plate bolts. Remove the torsion bar cover plate. NOTE: Before relieving the torsion bar tension, measure and record the measurement of the torsion bar adjustment bolt. This measurement will be used as the preset depth for the new torsion bar adjustment bolt during installation. Make preliminary adjustment references. Measure and record the length where indicated. Relieve the torsion bar tension. Position the Torsion Bar Tool and adapters. Tighten the Torsion Bar Tool until the torsion bar adjuster lifts off the adjustment bolt. CAUTION: The torsion bar adjustment bolt is coated with dry adhesive and must be replaced if it is backed off or removed. Failure to do so can cause the adjustment bolt to loosen during operation and cause a loss of vehicle alignment. Remove the torsion bar adjustment bolt and nut. Loosen the Torsion Bar Tool until the tension is removed from the torsion bar. Remove the torsion bar. Mark the torsion bar and the adjuster for proper installation. Remove the torsion bar insulator. Grasp the torsion bar and pull it free from the front suspension lower arm. Installation Position the torsion bar and the torsion bar adjuster. Install the torsion bar adjuster. Align the marks on the torsion bar and the torsion bar adjuster, then install the torsion bar adjuster. Position the torsion bar insulator. CAUTION: The torsion bar adjustment bolt is coated with dry adhesive and must be replaced if it is backed off or removed. Failure to do so can cause the adjustment bolt to loosen during operation and cause a loss of vehicle alignment. Preload the torsion bar. Install the Torsion Bar Tool and the adapters. Tighten the Torsion Bar Tool until the new adjustment bolt and nut can be installed. Turn the adjustment bolt until the preliminary adjustment measurement (recorded length of the old adjustment bolt) is reached. Remove the tool. Install the torsion bar cover plate. Position the torsion bar cover plate. Install the torsion bar cover plate bolts. NOTE: If equipped with air suspension, reactivate the system by turning on the air suspension switch. Lower the vehicle. Adjust the ride height. For additional information, refer to Ride Height in this section. Check the alignment. For additional information, refer to Section 204-00. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- __________________ If it ain't broke, fix it till it is. 99 XLT 4x4 SOHC V6 2"TT/AAL 31" Kelly AT's aka Blue Mistress 96 Ranger ExCab 4x4 OHV V6 31" Goodyear RT/S's (not for long) KC Area Explorers

06-15-2003, 07:33 AM	#2
JDraper Elite Garage Builder McVeytown, PA '11 XLT Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 15,413 Vehicle Specs	Lemme just add a footnote to this. I just put a new set of torsion bars in an Explorer, and I would suggest not buying the torsion bar puller. You're better off buying a universal gear puller that has the capability of changing from a 3 jaw puller to a 2 jaw puller (torsion bars require the 2 jaw setup). It works just as well, costs considerably less, and has many more uses. I was doing a 4" Superlift for a friend, and the kit was purchased with a tool just for removing and installing torsion bars. I ended up tossing that aside and using my gear puller. It was easier to use. __________________ Moderator..Home Improvement/Explorer 911/2011 Explorer Forum You took my breath away....and now I want it back.... '66 Mustang Coupe, '04 Mustang Mach 1, '08 Focus, '11 Explorer XLT "Ex"plorer's: '92 Sport, '94 Sport, '01 XLS Our Crappy Website

02-05-2007, 10:22 AM	#4
Dan Whitaker One fast putty tat Raytown MO (Kansas City suburb) No Mounty no more. Join Date: Dec 2001 Posts: 6,965 Vehicle Specs	No they don't. They have TTB Which I believe stands for Twin Traction Beam but don't quote me on that. Search in the 91-94 Forums and you will find your answer for sure. __________________ P r i c k me, do I not bleed Ford Blue.

03-06-2007, 06:50 PM	#5
tenikiwon Elite Explorer Yakima, WA 02 F250/Zuk twins Join Date: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,308 Vehicle Specs	Torsion Bar options Aren't there different options for torsion bars? I'd like to get stiffer ones if possible and I thought there was a post on here about them. In any case this thread would make a perfect place for that. Reference to torsion bar codes. __________________ Gone wheel'n......I wish Andrew J. Nowicki The FORD III - 2002 F250 7.3L PowerStroke Diesel - Tow Vehicle Zuk Twins (87 & 88.5) Suzuki Samurai <-- It's a Samurai thing even I don't understand. My Home on the Web Last edited by tenikiwon; 03-06-2007 at 07:59 PM.

04-08-2007, 06:35 PM	#6
bennettcl Wannabe Elite Explorer Olathe, KS 1998 Explorer Eddie Bauer Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 8 Vehicle Specs	question When you say "CAUTION: The torsion bar adjustment bolt is coated with dry adhesive and must be replaced if it is backed off or removed. Failure to do so can cause the adjustment bolt to loosen during operation and cause a loss of vehicle alignment." Does that mean replace the entire bolt???? Or do you mean make sure you put some dry adhesive on the threads before putting the bolt back in? If you mean replace the entire bolt, where can you get the new bolts at???

02-05-2007, 10:17 AM	#3
khoward Wannabe Elite Explorer Pelahatchie Ms, '92 XLT Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 44 Vehicle Specs	does a 92 4x4 have torsion bars

05-28-2007, 09:32 PM	#7
Bob McNabb Wannabe Elite Explorer 1999 4x4 ranger Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 2 Vehicle Specs	Ranger Torsion Bar Crack My torsion bar cracked while in 4wd. Road was a little rugged but not that bad. What would cause this? Metal fatigue or something? what about wear of other front end suspension parts would that cause the bar to crack? what should I look for? Link rod (that goes to lower control arm seems to have bad rubber) ANy help or suggestions would be GREAT. Can I drive the truck at low speed 6 miles to the shop without damaging anything?

05-29-2007, 12:42 AM	#8
97awdx Wannabe Elite Explorer Lake Wallenpaupack, PA 2002 XLS Join Date: Apr 2004 Posts: 393 Vehicle Specs	You can drive it at a very very low speed. The a-arm is going to be against the bump stop so it will ride like crap.

07-08-2007, 01:45 PM	#9
scruff Wannabe Elite Explorer Atlanta, GA 2000 Limited chassis only Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 402 Vehicle Specs	Bennetcl Dry adhesive just means that bolt ius locktited in there. Ford uses this blue stuff that looks like blue paint on a lot of chassis parts, it's a pain to get them out. So you don't need to replace the bolt, just renew the locktite. __________________ Ford Explorer chassis under 1951 F1 http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=174298 http://picasaweb.google.com/stragedy/ProjectTruck < home < home for now

11-20-2008, 08:16 PM	#11
danrathexplorer Wannabe Elite Explorer Bethlehem PA 96 XLT 4 Door 4.0 Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 2 Vehicle Specs	torsion bars yo does anyone make new torsion bar keys to give more lift without having the torsion bars jacked up all the time? i know they make them for other trucks like the gm fullsize

12-21-2008, 06:49 PM	#13
ehosterman Wannabe Elite Explorer Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 2 Vehicle Specs	What size gear puller do you use?

10-02-2009, 04:02 PM	#14
jrjr2u Wannabe Elite Explorer Upstate NY near Rochester 97 sport Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 60 Vehicle Specs	Sorry to resurrect an old thread but..... this seems an appropriate place. I am replacing both torsion bars on a 97 sport, and putting in '1' bars. I have both rear ends loose and swinging in the breeze and now am trying to get the bars loose in front. I have a solid bar about 4' long placed in from the front on the torsion bar and have wacked the crap out of it with about a 2 pound hammer but the bar is not moving at all. I have sprayed with PB blaster several times. Am I mistaken in that they should move rearward to be taken out? Should I be driving them from the rear toward the front? OR should I just get a sledge and try more force? Seems to me like heat would not be a good thing as its probably tempered in the bar seats..... Input please!!!

10-02-2009, 04:22 PM	#15
Dan Whitaker One fast putty tat Raytown MO (Kansas City suburb) No Mounty no more. Join Date: Dec 2001 Posts: 6,965 Vehicle Specs	You need someone to hold the rear of the torsion bar up. With it dangling it is going to cause binding. It is a pain to get them out. I would also recomend letting the PB set awhile then try it. __________________ P r i c k me, do I not bleed Ford Blue.

10-02-2009, 04:23 PM	#16
Turdle Old and in the way Humboldt, Kansas 2000 Mounty Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 23,785 Vehicle Specs	Well, it should slide rearward. Try whacking a bit harder--- However, My son's truck held on to the driver side bar, and wouldn't let it go even with the whole arm in my 20 ton shop press. Sometimes they are shtuck. In this case you need a new control arm and bars __________________ Jon 2000 Mountaineer Turdle-gone Vitamin D Wagon Sold also

10-02-2009, 04:40 PM	#17
Dan Whitaker One fast putty tat Raytown MO (Kansas City suburb) No Mounty no more. Join Date: Dec 2001 Posts: 6,965 Vehicle Specs	If you live in snow country and they use a lot of salt you are fighting a loosing battle. __________________ P r i c k me, do I not bleed Ford Blue.

10-02-2009, 05:37 PM	#18
patrick112390 Wannabe Elite Explorer chesterfield,va 97' mountaineer 5.0 4406 Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 689 Vehicle Specs	you dont even have to have any puller at all... just unbolt the shock and UCA at the knuckle with the LCA supported by a jack and lower st till it droops. the bar will fall out.-----to load it up do the opposite. jack it up __________________ 97' mountaineer 5.0 V8 4406- k&n intake, hunter brush guard, shackles, TT, aal front/rear tow hooks, 35X14.50 Mud Grapplers, crager soft 8 rims, remote start, cb, 3'' pa body lift, 4'' superlift, 4406 swap, 4.88 gears and a full carrier Detroit Locker

10-03-2009, 03:34 PM	#20
jrjr2u Wannabe Elite Explorer Upstate NY near Rochester 97 sport Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 60 Vehicle Specs	Got them out! Drivers side came out by heating with the acetylene torch and beating with a 10 pound mall. Couldn't get the passenger side to budge so I borrowed an oxy/acetylene torch and that did the trick. Many thanks to my buddy that dared to hold the bar while I was taking full swings at the end! Ex is all back together now and it seems to have worked out well. When I lift the plow now it only slightly sags.... about 2" which I deem good enough. I set the adjuster bolts at the same length as the original and it lifted the truck one inch even by having new and stronger bars. Ride is nice too.... firm but yet not too firm..... I am happy