Family Wheeler - 2nd Gen Mounty on Tons

036speed said:

Just need time



Haha. That is exactly what I did at work. I work in the Steel Industry and specialize in welding overlays

If it was cast steel it would have worked better. But I am pretty sure it is iron. However, I did do a chemistry check on it. The results were odd.

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Now just laser scan it and 3D print a new casting mold and pour ya fresh one... lol ..

$106 seems a bit high. But it'll get the ol' girl going.

Amazing it's still available!?

http://www.partstree.com/parts/grav...draulic-lift/number-one-shaft-forward-clutch/

FR-425 said:

$106 seems a bit high. But it'll get the ol' girl going.

Amazing it's still available!?

http://www.partstree.com/parts/grav...draulic-lift/number-one-shaft-forward-clutch/

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I am amazed at the available parts for these. There is a local guy with a transmission that has a bad PTO clutch. I am trying to get that from him. The PTO is the big money part. And its bad which is perfect for me.

I have seen 3 different styles listed for mine. I need to get the PN off the one I have.

I got 2 hours of free time today. So I took the 8.8 out.




Sold it to a fellow RBV enthusiast. He is picking it up this week.


The only thing I havnt removed is the OEM shocks. The upper bolts are heavily rusted. I didnt deal with it yet.

All the "weight" that was removed


Rolled a 42 up to it. What did I get myself into.


For now I am going to rock rear leaves to get back on the trail faster. I will link it some time this decade. This is the 10.5 sitting under it.



Going to order some u-bolts tonight and maybe get the new perches on before the holiday.


Also, we were surprised with a daughter earlier this month. My wife was convinced we were having another boy. All are doing great.


Also cleaned up the garage a little while on maternity leave. Been picking up some important tools that I used to borrow from various friends. Also have been organizing it. Got a few free shelves from work and what not.


I got a 220V welder last fall of CL. Finally got a tank for it last weekend. I still have not used it though. I need to weld some new D-rings to my goose plate on my dually. Would be a good first project.


Got my free set of torch tanks all set up finally. Got some mid range gauges. Last thing I need is a new blade for the band saw.

036speed said:

I
Rolled a 42 up to it. What did I get myself into.

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Cutting... Lots of cutting....

This is happening

Been working in the garage every night this week. I am feeling it now lol

Teaser pic

More pictures

Here are some more pictures

Took the new to me perches to work and had them blasted



Then my aunt found this new Harbor Freight tire changer at Goodwill for $10. I had her grab it. Why not.
Put it to work getting these truck tires off the 08 17" steelies I have. Bent a few of the tubing right off the bat. I replaced them with strong tubing as needed. It wasn't easy, but it worked and saved travel time and money.





Also pulled all the mountaineer tires off its wheels and put them on CL for $100. Sold the next day.

So the Pitbulls are 42x15. The stock 08 wheels are 7-3/4" wide. Not ideal but it will work for mocking this thing up. Plan is to weld on some bead locks which should add about 1". Two are currently mounted at 25 psi to get the bead to seat. They are bubbly haha.





Last night I decided I couldn't wait to see where this thing would sit. So I tacked the perches on and threw the axle under there. Pinion angle is currently 10*. It will probably need a bit more. Time will tell.

I don't have U-bolts yet so I used some threaded rod for the time being. I will be ordering u-bolts next week.


This is how the rear end is sitting. Suspension is 100% stock Mountaineer. All I have done is flipped the axle under the leaves. I like where it is height wise. I want to be as low as possible. I will need to trim a lot and I plan on moving the rear back 3-4" to clear the rear doors better.




I am happy with this stance.

Somehow I wasn't subscribed to this. In for the pictures.

44" wheel tubs. .. . .




http://www.swracecars.com/store/Steel-Wheel-Tubs-44-INCHES-OSCARItem_186=95-396.aspx

going to be sick
Makes me want to sas my first gen

FR-425 said:

44" wheel tubs. .. . .




http://www.swracecars.com/store/Steel-Wheel-Tubs-44-INCHES-OSCARItem_186=95-396.aspx

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Ah. I like this. I may need to purchase these. Thanks for the link

Much easier, Just cut the thing completely out and re-tub.

To make it disappear all professional like: Eastwood fender roller! Oh yea..... . If you shop around your local body shops you may find a guy willing to rent one out for a day or two.

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-fender-roller-w-instruction.html

Of course on the Ex you'll have to roll the door bottom too, a little creativity there but doable.

I had the same door issue when tub'n a 66' Chevy II.

I just cut out the arc right through the door and let the tub be the new gasket surface.

I used a large trunk seal on the edge of the tub so that when the door is shut it just presses against the seal. 1/8" flat bar to sturdy it up. Done.

To re-skin the inside of the door I just flush riveted aluminum sheet to create the new inner skin. Sand bag and mallet to form the aluminum.

Just some ideas to rattle around...

Progress?
This has become my sas inspirasjon

FR-425 said:

Much easier, Just cut the thing completely out and re-tub.

To make it disappear all professional like: Eastwood fender roller! Oh yea..... . If you shop around your local body shops you may find a guy willing to rent one out for a day or two.

Click to expand...

FR-425 said:

Of course on the Ex you'll have to roll the door bottom too, a little creativity there but doable.

I had the same door issue when tub'n a 66' Chevy II.

I just cut out the arc right through the door and let the tub be the new gasket surface.

I used a large trunk seal on the edge of the tub so that when the door is shut it just presses against the seal. 1/8" flat bar to sturdy it up. Done.

To re-skin the inside of the door I just flush riveted aluminum sheet to create the new inner skin. Sand bag and mallet to form the aluminum.

Just some ideas to rattle around...

Click to expand...

You have my brain rolling. I am not a body guy. I havnt figured out how I am going to make the door work. Originally, I was going to move the axle back, but there is not a lot of room to do that with leaves and the arc wouldn't look right. I plan on linking it back there, but as phase 2 or 3. And I like the OEM wheel base even though I will be moving the front axle forward.
But now I see cutting the door is possible. I was skeptical because I need it to seal as I would like to drive this on weekends with my kids in the back. I have friends in the ricer scene. They have fender rollers. After looking at my door, cutting a larger arc is not impossible. I will have to get their 2 cents.
I am pretty sure I will be going that route with the new tubs.

Do you have any pictures? I wonder if anyone has done it with a 4 door on here. I will have to dig around.

madbutcher said:

Progress?
This has become my sas inspirasjon

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Haha. Thanks. It is nice to see the tires kinda under it.
Not much progress though. This will be a very slow build. I live a busy life. I hope to start cutting out the IFS but dont see any free time until after Thanksgiving
I also need to hunt down a 95+ Ranger clutch pedal and purchase a flywheel for my ZF5.

Sorry no pics of the 66" chevy.

Welding sheet metal is not necessary rivets and marine sealant make for body armor looking work. Fine for the non-show truck.

Getting weather striping on it should be a snap.

Once you have it all in place you'll be able to figure out how to seal the door.

Depending on how far into the door you need to cut you will probably have to shorten the rear window track, which will limit how far down the window will go by a couple more inches.

They make 42" tubs as well. When you call them ask which is recommended for 42" tires.

I wouldn't cut until you have the tubs in hand.

They also supply paper templates to get everything lined up before you go ape with the 24" sawzall blade. (pneumatic sheers recommended for the outer skin) and leave it long so it can be rolled.

I remember you saying you were interested in chopping the top.
I am doing something similar. My top was crushed by a tree, why I bought the 98 sport so cheap.
I have a different approach to putting it back together then your plan with a hatch.

But here you can see what one looks like dissected. I cut mine at a weird place, in the middle of where the old window use to be.
I did this to keep the original seat belt location in the rear passenger seats.
It would be much easier to just follow the window line and cut it there.

And the roof strength is compromised with cutting it, needs a roll bar added there fore safety of the passengers.

But any ways, here is a couple photos of it opened up. Right now I am in the middle of soldering the wiring harness back together that I cut.

I hope to weld the side panels in later, right now just screwed in place until I get a welder.

You can see the rubber weather stripping on the right, it was on the rear hatch and recycling it to use here.
Also made some caps to cover the opening in the upper right and left roof corners. Will all be siliconed in.


A closer look


Here is what I hope to just weld up grind and paint :bsnicker:

I actually touched this thing Thursday night. I think that puts me at 6 hours of wrenching on it this year? Bummer.

Nothing exciting but posting anyways.
Pulled the front bumper. Welded some bracing across the frame that isn't shown. I attempted to remove the IFS via a reciprocating saw without disassembling the IFS. Decided its faster to disassemble then cut.



One side is apart...


This is the first IFS vehicle I have worked on where the upper arm was easily removed. Go figure since I am cutting it up...


The fun part is that I sort of wrench old school. Haven't been using impacts or other power tools because I work on this at night after my family goes to sleep. I have to wrench quietly. It adds to the challenge.

As far as chopping it, it will be the last thing I do.