Body repairs on roof? Sunroof Delete.

Since you obviously don't care about using the sunroof anymore, could you just seal it shut with some silicone caulk or another sealant?

wbw11 said:

Since you obviously don't care about using the sunroof anymore, could you just seal it shut with some silicone caulk or another sealant?

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Experience has shown that to be a stop-gap at best. I'm looking for a permanent solution. Also, I won't be able to replace the headliner with a factory sunroof headliner, as I think the size and location are just a bit off from factory location. Re-covering the headliner is not an option due to the water damage... keeping it as-is is not an option either... SWMBO has spoken on that one. She would rather have bare roof than the headliner in it's present condition... So I guess that is technically an option...

I've I'm gonna have the sunroof, I want it to work. If I can't get it to work I might as well block it off.

Great post.

A few years back some guy sent me a PM in quite the panic.
He went to the junk yard and bought him self a sun roof for his explorer.
Got it home, made a bunch of measurements, grabbed the sawz-all and cut the opening in his roof. But he gut the opening a good four to six inches too big.
What a mess.

You my friend present a similar but different problem, with out the feeling like a complete idiot.
You really have two options.
Option A) Will be far far more work, far more difficult, but produce significantly better results. Replace the entire roof skin assembly.
Option 2) as you said, make a patch.
I would be glad to walk you through either.

If you go the patch route there is really two ways to go about it.
1 ) is to make a flush patch, this would require a significant level of precision in measuring and cutting and some above average welding skills.
B ) is to just pay the patch over top of the hole and weld it that way. The only issue wit this would be the roof would show the ever so slight surface raise. If you can live with that that would be the quickest and easiest option albeit not the most attractive.

One other thing to keep in mind, that part of the roof is not perfectly flat. A patch from just sheet metal stock actually might be best because it will have some level of continuity. Using a patch from an actual existing roof would present some challenges with getting the contour just right. Again, it just goes back to your level of expectations, and how much work you are willing ( able ) to put in.

Well, I do feel like kind of an idiot for buying something with a sunroof! Other than t-tops/targa top, there is no place in my life for sunroofs! I love how they are advertised as a value-added option for your car... how is a ruined headliner and water dripping on my kid in the back seat added value?

Anyway, now that we've established that I hate sunroofs... I'd much prefer to do a flush mount with a patch of actual roof, as it is less work over all, but since it is much more skilled work overall... I don't want to do the overlay patch, cuz the contour would bother me every time I see it.. I'm tall enough to where the roof is about eye level...

What is the process for replacing the whole skin?

Either way, I've got to get access to both sides of the roof... I know there's a thread about getting the headliner down, so you can skip that part of the guidance, lol...

To skin the whole roof, you would need to buy a roof skin from FORD. ( dealership will be able to get one for you. )
you would have to remove the windshield, and the lift gate. Take the roof rack off. Take the sun roof out. Remove the head liner.
Grind out the seam sealer on the two troughs. Grind out the spot welds. Remove the roof ( this will kick your ass )
Then ( after a few prep steps ) weld on the new roof, add seam sealer, paint and then put back together.
Then be happy

I'd say you could try to fab up a patch panel first, then if that doesn't work out, resort to the whole roof replacement method.

If you can saw off a big chunk of the roof off a 02-05 where the sunroof is, then whittle it down to perfectly fitting in the cutout, tack weld it in slowly over a period of days (to avoid warping), using some sheet metal strips under the weld points to prevent blow-through, and finish it off with body filler or spot putty, prime and check for any imperfections, then paint and clear and it should be good.

If you keep the metal strips on the bottom, you can use something like heater/dryer vent tape to stick on there and prevent the headliner from catching on a sharp metal edge, or even just use body filler, being sure not to exceed the thickness it's allowed to have, per the instructions.

time...


I was afraid the roof removal would involve buying something from Ford... Looks like the patch method it is.

Thanks for the pictures! I never would have thought that tack-welding it around would be the right way to go, but it makes sense.should I do one tack per side and just chase myself around, or do a star-ish pattern?

tack all four corners than do several two inch welds in different directions from opposite sides. Basically spread it out. Minimize the heat in any one location.

As stated above, tack all four corners, then spread out the rest.

If you have really good sheet metal welding skills, (and a welder that is good for sheet metal) you can just weld it up with short, quick 1-2 inch welds on each side, then wait until those cool, weld, cool, and repeat until it's done.

Otherwise, you'll probably want to tack the whole thing, which means tack welding one spot, then doing a spot on the opposite edge, then on the other two edges, or some kind of pattern/method to "even out" the welding and keeping any area from staying hot. This is why a large panel usually takes a few days - you usually have to wait 10-20 min between tacking for a panel to cool down, doing about 4-8 tacks each time. It's pretty tedious but is what's required to avoid warping the sheet metal.

If you do a good job you can usually smooth down the welds and have a panel that only needs a minimum of body work to blend in - and with paint and primer is undetectable.

You'll have to decide if you want to put that much effort in. You can certainly go faster and you don't have to tack-tack-tack if you don't care much about the cosmetics of the finished result. Some people don't, since it is the roof - most people rarely see the top of the roof.

I hate to disagree Anime, but a few days is completely excessive.

If you to the short sides in one inch intervals, and the long side in two inch intervals, going from left to right and front to back, forwards then backwards.
If you maximize the time you return to a previously welded area, your heat effected zone will remain small.
No matter what you will have to use body filler for the whole opening any way. If there is minor distortion, ( done right I doubt there will be ) its going to be filled any way.
The two metals are fairly thin so you wont need a lot of heat. Ample penetration wont be an issue.

Depends how long a person can work on it. If someone can work on it for 10-15 hours straight, sure, you can probably get it done.

My time estimates are rough and erring on the side of caution. I'm guessing the OP doesn't have years of experience with welding sheet metal or is going to be able to rely on experience to tell them whether or not the panel is cool enough to do another round of welding.

Even if it is way excessive, it's still how I do sheet metal personally. Taking your time and going slow actually saves a lot of time (and money) in the long run, especially compared to the hassle of warping a roof.

I'd rather tell someone to take it slow and easy and have them learn the "right" (if excessively cautious) way of going about it, than have them mess it up because the panel got too hot, warped the roof, and caused them to have to replace the whole roof, when the panel repair would have been fine with a little more patience during the welding process.

Within reason, I could always cut out a bigger patch, having learned from my mistake...

96firephoenix said:

Within reason, I could always cut out a bigger patch, having learned from my mistake...

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Bigger than the opening is by far the easiest method.

I did an experiment today.
Doing several plug welds on a truck bed.
I timed it once the red glow went away. It was about 90 seconds give or take for the weld to feel warm ( not hot ) to the touch. Now a stitch weld IS a hotter weld. If you are away from the weld at one point for two to three minuets, that should be ample.

MONMIX said:

Bigger than the opening is by far the easiest method.

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I meant that as in I could try a little bit bigger than the opening, then if that gets messed up, I could cut it all out to an even bigger opening.

MONMIX said:

I did an experiment today.
Doing several plug welds on a truck bed.
I timed it once the red glow went away. It was about 90 seconds give or take for the weld to feel warm ( not hot ) to the touch. Now a stitch weld IS a hotter weld. If you are away from the weld at one point for two to three minuets, that should be ample.

Click to expand...

Good to know.