ExplorinVA's A4LD to M5OD Swap Thread

I'm installing the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate today. Does the crankshaft to flexplate spacer get transferred to the flywheel?

Sorry but I wouldn't use those bolts you bought from Amazon. I would work to find some proper flywheel bolt. Those bolts have to stand up to the shear force of your entire drivetrain.

And I think you've got the length wrong.

Either way, this is what you are looking for:
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/P...earch=true&year=1993&make=Ford&model=Explorer

I re used my flywheel bolts and bought new pressure plate bolts. I looked it up again and I think the pressure plate bolt size is M8x1.25x20. The bolts I bought are M8x1.25x18. Is it just the length that's off? The bolts I received don't actually have that collar like in the amazon pics, they're fully threaded. I torqued them down according to the book and used thread lock. Should I really remove them and get longer ones? I already have the transmission bolted up, but I have no problem replacing them, as long as it means the job gets done right.

While I'm at it, does anyone know the size for the bellhousing bolts? Only the two long bottom ones from the auto fit in the manual bellhousing. For the remaining bolts I just used ones that came off an explorer transfer case. They fit but should I replace those too? I won't be able to get any bolts directly from ford because they are all discontinued.

I went to the store and got everything I could think of to finish the swap. 2mm longer bolts for the pressure plate, some quick splice connectors for bypassing the clutch switch, and a hand pump for filling up the transmission. The parts store worker tried to sell me a $30 hand pump, claiming the cheaper one didn't have enough pressure to carry the fluid up to the transmission. Well I plan on filling it from the cab so I went with the $5 one. I still have to install and bleed the clutch master cylinder and button everything else up, but it's about to be up and running again!

You wanna bleed that clutch line before you install the master cylinder. You need to bleed the line with the master upside down or it will catch an air bubble in it.

I got the truck back together but it's not starting. I spliced the pink to the red/blue wire on the clutch interlock switch to jump the starter. I hear the relay clicking but it won't turn over. Does anyone have a pic of the starter wiring so I can make sure it's connected properly?

I turned the master cylinder upside down and gravity bled it, the pedal feels kind of firm but I haven't tested if its engaging the clutch.

It still won't start. I've tried 3 different ecm's and two transmission harnesses. All the starter connections look good. All I am getting it a click coming from the relay on the fender.

Check to see if you getting constant voltage at the starter and also check you ground wires from motor to frame

Put new connections on the ignition wire on the starter. Got the truck to start but it stalls right after it fires up. That may just be because the battery/gas sat for a few weeks or because the exhaust isn't installed yet. I'm running the auto computer and harness.

The truck starts up and runs, but it boggs down at high rpms. It shifts good, has good low end power when I'm working the clutch, but I can't coast at a constant speed or accelerate for too long without losing all throttle response. The only way I can drive the truck is to keep my foot pressed slightly on the clutch pedal at all times. This revs up the motor and allows me to accelerate/cruise without stalling.

Does anyone know what this could be? The truck drives the same with either a manual or automatic computer so I ruled that out. My vacuum lines have all been replaced or plugged so I don't think I have any air leaks under the hood. I had to buy a new y pipe and I broke two of the four studs removing the old one. I couldn't drill them out so I bolted up the y pipe with just one stud per side. Also the y-pipe to converter flange studs are missing a nut at the moment. So there's definitely an exhaust leak that must be fixed, but would that cause these symptoms?

The oddest part is that ever since the transmission swap my check engine light wont flash codes anymore. I'm using the same method that's always worked for me...jumping the ecu test circuit with a copper wire and counting how many times the CEL flashes. Sometimes it will flash really fast like it's about to work, but then it never does anything. So I'm unable to check for codes

Hope you got it working. I am planning on a M5OD or R1 in the future. Subscribing.

Got everything running. The 5 speed has been good to me.

You finally got it going? Glad to hear.

Yeah man it's been great. Had some unrelated electrical issues and I spent some time working on the exhaust but it runs strong now. Now I'm just trying to find the time to swap in a manual bw1354.