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Turbo on 2000 Limited 5.0

Turbo compressor map.gif
Well guys, I don't even have it yet and I'm looking at going turbo.

I think I'll be going STS style with the turbo underneath the the body. I'm hoping I can find room somewhere closer to the front to mount it. If not, I may just go classic style and cut the muffler out and install the turbo in its place.

Tim was kind enough to point me at a turbo for sale locally. I'm checking it out now. I sent the specs to James Henson to see what his thoughts are.

Here's the specs:
t4 F1-68 turbine .68 a/r housing 3" exhaust outlet with a 72mm compressor blade 4inch inlet, 2.5 inch outlet, journal bearing. Also, see compressor map attached. I have a vague understanding, and that concerns me.

Now, the next issue is oil routing.
Oil in to the turbo would be handled from a T off the oil pressure sending unit on the block. Return oil would need a scavenge pump to the top of the oil pan, or in the timing chain cover. The scavenge pump adds quite a bit of cost to the setup. I think saving a few bucks in this area would spell disaster. So, this seems to be the best pump out there:
http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/Exa-Pump/Exa-Pump.html
Stainless steel oil lines will have to be used. As I read about under cab mounted turbo's oil issues seem to be a huge issue. This is going to require careful thought and routing.

My real issue is routing the air filter and compressed air up to the engine bay.
The frame rails will be the the way. I saw one guy notched out his frame for the plumbing and re-enforced the frame by welding metal around the plumbing line (3 inch or 4 inch hole). I'm concerned about running the two pipes and think this will be the biggest challenge. I really don't want that air filter under the truck.
See what this guy did on his ranger?


As for Maf? Pro-M all the way, in a blow thru design.

Fuel pump, injectors, sct go without saying. I'll be having James put together a care package for me along with the Pro-M.
Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump
Bosch uscar (EV6) 60lb injectors part # 108191

I'll recycle my boost gauge and wide band o2 from my supercharged 4.0 ohv.

I'll be using stainless steel for everything under the truck as rust always seems to be an issue.

Also. intercooling. I learned from my last project that cool intake air is incredibly important. People say on under cabin turbo's you don't really need it as the compressed air cools on the way up. Not good enough for me. Im going to go air/water so I have flexibility as to where I mount the intercooler. This could change, but intercooling of some form is a must.

My eye's are watering at what this is going to cost.

I see 02Limited turbo'd his, but he must have had quite a few issues and fell off the forum.

Not much info on guys completing something like this to be found. All input appreciated.

This will be a long process.
 



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"War story time"

We used to have a 91 Thunderbird 5.0

Took it on a road trip to Chicago. July 1995.
We filled up somewhere in Illinois on the way to Soldier field. Soon after the check engine light came on and the car ran very rough. I ignored it until it was time to head back home. It took a long time at very low power to burn that tank down to 1/8 tank, filled up again and the problem went away. Check engine light turned itself off, car ran great and we made it home safely.


My .02
 



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That gas isn't going back in the tank, its not worth the risk.

Maybe the belligerent gas station manager will put it in his tank? I'd be interested if he would be willing to take the chance.
 






Fuse

Yup, that about covers the codes I saw.
Very strange.

So, How do I read that schematic?
Which fuse box, and which fuse?

Is that the fuse box just under the hood on the drivers side?

If the fuse blew the codes would be there all the time.
I was thinking more so on the lines of a connector problem like being loose or corroded.
If you only had three codes for O2 sensors, and the ones for trans, then I would say connector C116.

If you had all 4 O2 sensor codes, the trans codes, and the EGR I would say C115.

However I now see that you mentioned a TPS code too. That runs off 5 volts not 12 so it is not related. If the codes were not O2 sensor heater circuit codes then that throws the whole thing out.
Also are you sure there were no codes before you got gas. Some codes don't turn the light on and emissions codes have to happen 2 times within 2 drive cycles to turn the light on.
How about listing the codes you did have?
 






I don't have the codes anymore, as I didn't write them down.
I really hope I don't see all of them again to list them here.

I can't be certain I didn't have codes before I filled up, but there was no check engine light and the truck ran fine. I may never know what the issue was for sure.
 






Bad Gas

Well, if it does not happen again it will be safe to say it was defective gas.
Putting bad gas in our vehicles is like us eating tainted food and getting food poisoning. Your poor truck!
 






Maybe the belligerent gas station manager will put it in his tank? I'd be interested if he would be willing to take the chance.

i like that. lets hope he has a caddy :D
 






Do you have a clear container you could pour a wee dram of this motion lotion substance into for viewing on the webs? An old glass jar? Curious to see if it looks like mountain dew-
 






IMG_20141125_173610.jpg
I just cant bring myself to put that gas back in to prove or disprove the gas was the problem. To me, the gas looks and smells ok. The issue has not come back yet, about an hour and a half of driving today.
 






I took some bad gas out of my Mountaineer tank and tried to use it in my Lincoln, 7 years ago. It ruined a couple of injectors eventually, with misses. I ended up swapping the injectors.

Older cars with carbs can handle worse gasoline than later EFI cars. Even a lawn mower can deal with some bad gas, that is not really old but the typical gas station too much water etc, stuff.

I take old stale gas to the hazardous waste dump, they will accept it here at no charge.
 












:banghead:

this is going to suck. once again, if it comes to ripping into things, let me know if you need a hand, or tools or anything like that.
 






The 02 sensors and transmission harnesses all run through that square connector in the center of the firewall I think. Correct me if I am wrong. Maybe if you loosen the center bolt of that connector, and re connect it? Check the wiring while you have it apart. electrical parts connection cleaner sprayed into the plug wont hurt-

Idunno. Worth a shot? I was looking for something that the 02 sensors and transmission have in common.

:dunno::dunno::scratch:
 






Thanks Jon, I'll keep at it.
Its so intermittent. This morning, the drive to work was uneventful. I know immediately if there is an issue as the trans kicks out of overdrive.

I will pick up some contact cleaner and give that connector a spray. Im pretty sure when I replaced the front o2 sensors this summer I was careful to make sure the wires were routed away from the exhaust, but you never know. Also, the one o2 pigtail on the passenger side was to short, so I extended it by 3-4 inches. Those connections were soldered with heat shrink tubing, but you never know as its another weak link.

it is -12F here this morning. I need to wait for it to warm up before I really start looking around. Like the rest of us, I sure wish I had a garage with a hoist that was fully heated and convenient to use.

Who knows, maybe a bit of di-electric grease on that fuse 13 will fix it. The fuse blades looked ok, but the fuse wasn't seated 100% down. Im not very confident that this will fix it, but starting with the easy stuff seems like a pretty good approach.
 






If you have a fuse that may be an issue, carefully check the terminal blades down in each hole where the fuse goes. Gently give them a light push inward and see if they will move at all. Sometimes the plastic locking tip behind the terminal will let go or break, and then the terminal just pushes in. You can fix those but first you have to think of looking there and find them.
 






So, we made our annual pilgrimage to Regina, about 6 hours away, to see my family for Christmas. We do Christmas eve, and morning here in Winnipeg, then head to Regina.

We hop in the mighty explorer about lunch time, and off we go. About 3/4 of the way there...we notice its getting cold...oh no I think.
A scan of the gauges and the temp gauge is rising.......This isn't good.

I pull over for a peek. And, coolant all over the motor. Rad's all but empty. Fan, frieken tastic. 4:00pm on Christmas day. We passed a small town about 9km back, so we turn araound and make a slow treck hoping something will be open. I can only run the motor for a few minutes, then need to shut it off to cool down while coasting. We make it to a gas station and they are closed, but someone is still inside. I manage to talk them into letting me buy some coolant ($50.00 for 2 gallons, but I thought it was a bargain).

We make it to my parents for Christmas dinner. Excellent, I'll deal with the truck tomorrow Im thinking to myself.

Boxing day, I head out thinking I'll gas up, wand wash my motor and get a look at whats going on. The temperature has really dropped, and is getting colder. I gas up, and head in to the wand wash bay. Well, It turns out my hood won't open either. The issues keep building. Lovely.

I continue on and pick up another 6 gallons of premix coolant, then back to my parents. Tim suggested getting someone outside to bounce the hood while I pull the hood release. Perfect. It popped open. Lifes good.

Next step cut the hood cable and route it by the license plate, cutting some extra sheathing off. I could see the cable had been too close to the header and melted it at some point. Anyway, at least I could open the hood to top up the rad. I filled the rad, and didn't lock the rad cap, thinking I'll just let the pressure bleed off so coolant won't be forced out of the hole/crack in the rad.

Ok, Next day and its home day. Im a bit stressed and its really cold. My mighty Explorer starts, but squeals away telling me how unhappy it is. I ignore the crying and run back to the warmth of the house. After 10 minutes of warming up, we get in the truck to start our hopefully uneventful trip home (with just a few rad topup's). Well, I notice my boost gauge has no power. ****. That means my scavange pump has no power either. Again, frieken lovely.
I pop the hood, and see the fuse is blown. I rummage around the floor in the back seat and find another fuse. It blows also. F$^k.
Next, pull a larger amperage fuse from something else (Who cares what at this point) and try again. Success!!!! I used to low of an amperage fuse for the cold oil and frozen pump obviously. Ok, were on our way (Im thinking now I have oil in my intake and exhaust piping, and that intake piping is going to have to come apart and be cleaned, but whatever....were on the road).
We made it all the way home without loosing heat, so I didn't top the rad up.

So, now I have some work to do.
1. replace rad (I think its a plastic side tank leaking, but I don't want to risk just a fix.
2. replace hood release cable
3. replace belt (odds are its done also)
4. replace drivers header (yup, I'll be able to get rid of that one header that cracked (again) and my truck won't sound like a tractor anymore.
5. Check and clean intake piping( might wait toll spring, if it isn't causing issues)

Moral? Modifying has been a big part of my pain here. I've been driving a very noisy truck for a long time while waiting for my new headers. The header melted the hood release cable because I didn't have it routed quite properly (Again modifications). Also, oil return pump.....Modifications. I'm just happy I had my boost gauge wired to the same power source.

A modified vehicle doesn't like long trips from home in extreme cold.

Rockauto to the rescue. This coming weekend is repair time.

Merry frieken Christmas everyone!! :D Were just happy to be home.
 












Maybe I can get my truck close to your 347 before I start the burn
 












Vehicle Problems

Sorry to hear you are having problems with your Ex.
The fuse thing, wow, who could have imagined that.
The radiator, they just go sometimes. I guess it is where they go that can make it miserable. Mine on my 4 door explorer went out at pepboys, right in the parking lot. I went in to get some parts for a side job and when I came out it was dripping. I just went back in and bought the radiator,then drove it home and replaced it.
And to have the hood cable go bad at the same time, this was definitely a test of your patience. At least you made it home safely.

If you guys burn Vroomzoomboom's engine and your truck, can I add the transmission in my 4 door to that.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3370920#post3370920
 



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Thanks for the help on that passenger header Tim!
The new headers are now installed. The passenger header is so tight that we even kinda mangled the header wrap. There is no room there at all. Oh, and the drivers side is WAY easier to do. Its so nice not to have an exhaust leak after living with one for 8 months in varying states (Even after the first drivers side repair there was a slight leak which became really bad again). That drivers side header has been bad from install. Im so glad its out.

Rad replacement? [MENTION=21886]JoeDirt[/MENTION] PITA. Those silly clips. I can see why Joes forearms were all bruised up after his how-to. Many thanks Joe. Once I had it out, I had help from my wife working up top while I was on the bottom getting it aligned. I know this doesn't sound good, but that's what happened :D No leaks, life's great.

New hood release cable is in. Yaay !!! Happy days.

I'm feeling better about the truck. It seems to spool faster with the exhaust holes plugged...( I know, common sense), but I can't really push it. In the cold weather things can go bad real fast. I did try a highway partial wot from a light thinking things looked pretty clean on the road, in 2wd. By the time the shift to 2nd happened the rear end came out from under me in a real hurry. I'll have to wait till spring I guess.

The truck starts great (Still no block heater, so I'm using 0w30 oil), absolutely no issues with the air filter under the truck, and no further issues with the oil return pump (It is rated for a maximum 20 amp fuse, and I was using a 10amp. It now has a 20 amp fuse protecting it).
 






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