Solved Ford Ranger oil filter removal warning!!!

I found out the hard way today that the starter is close to the oil filter on my '99 Ford Ranger 3.0L. I almost started the truck on fire changing my oil. This is the second time I have replaced the oil filter as I havn't been driving the vehicle too long. The first time I changed the filter I used a band type filter wrench. This time I used a different type of wrench (photo of filter and wrench below). Anyway, the oil filter wrench touched up against a hot wire and created one heck of a fireworks display which eventually led to a fire on the filter. I managed to finally remove the wrench from the filter. The arcing was so much that it burned a hole through the metal shell of the oil filter. I was very lucky the oil that spewed out did not catch fire. I pour solvent into my oil pan via the dipstick tube to help remove sludge from the bottom of the oil pan. I rock the vehicle to agitate the solvent in the pan and then drain it out. I repeat this until the solvent drains out clean. This really helps to keep my oil clean longer as it keeps the old crap from mixing with the fresh oil. I happened to have solvent in the pan at the time of the mishap. Fortunately the fire went out after removing the wrench. The whole ordeal was somewhat frightening as I thought my truck could possibly burn. I guess from now on I will disconnect my battery when doing an oil change. I sure wish this vehicle had the old style remote solenoid, this would not have happened. Ford needs to quit using dumb GM designs. It was not a fun afternoon.

um wow! the larger power feed on your starter is supossed to have a red plastic cover over it, is this missing from your truck?

I have never worked on the 3.0L....

Perhaps its back to the band style filter wrench?

yeah, if the cover isn't there, I think I would get one or at least get that thing taped up, that is crazy stuff!!!!

Get an wrench that fits the bottom of the filter. They make them in plastic to you don't burn yourself up.

I have never heard of putting solvent in the dip stick tube to clean out the engine. There is no way you could get it all out. Adding any chemical to oil not meant to be an additive is a bad idea.

i dont htink there is a cover for the starter

when i was a tire monkey/oil changer, i worked on lots of 3.0s and that arcing happened quite a bit....

we have a 3.0 in our 98 ranger, ive done that to our ranger at least a few times myself

Brian K., almost all of the solvent comes out and the oil stays MUCH cleaner for longer. My oil still looks almost new even after 2 weeks or whatever it's been since I changed it. Even if all of the solvent does not come out it does not matter as it will mix with the oil (conventional, don't know about synthetic) and as the engine warms up it will vaporize. In the early days of aircraft and prior to multi-grade oils they would dump fuel in to the oiling system to dilute down the oil on cold days. It would mix with the oil to thin it out. As the engine warmed it would vaporize out. Having known this I was not worried about a little fuel being left in the pan. I learned this when I was going to college for avaition mechanics. If you do a search regarding the history of multi-grade oils I imagine you may find this mentioned. Thanks for the reply to my post.

Brian K. I'm not sure what you are referring to. No part of the post was meant to be rude. I apologize if I worded it such that you took my comments the wrong way. No rudeness intended.

ahhh

I only use that wrench for removal of the old filter. the new filter is only suppose to be put on a turn over hand tight. 4.0s barely have any room for a band wrench. it sucks

Rocketheavy said:

4.0s barely have any room for a band wrench. it sucks

Click to expand...

this thread is actually about the 3.0s the rangers use

I don't think thats what he was trying to imply. He was simply explaining his reasoning in doing what he does since it is not common practice and his methods were questioned.

Sorry, I guess I took it wrong when reading the last two sentences. I am deleting the prior post.

There is a type of filter 'wrench' that looks like a cap and fits onto the bottom of the filter. You then take a socket wrench and insert it into a hole in this cap and you can then screw the filter off. I've seen them at Walmart, so you might try that next time.

Like this ....

A better option may be to get a filter re-location kit and mount that thing on the frame rail.

The arcing actually comes in trying to get the oil filter out throught the botom, not getting it off the block, on 3.0 4x4 unscrew and remove from the top or through the fender well after taking loose the flexible splash shield pushpins.

interesting...

I would just like to say there is no reason for the most part to use a wrench. If the filter is installed correctly you should be able to unscrew it by hand (and tighten) with out leaking. I have always done this. The only tool I need when chaging oil is the wrench to remove the bolt to drain the oil.

or maybe I just don't know my own strength:

Good point normally, but 3.0l 12v is about the only engine that the oil filter
will leak if not tightend down with a wrench, there is even a service message on it. I have found it to be true more on taur. than ranger but it still applies.