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How to: Remove and replace door latch assembly

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Door latch removal and replacement.

I encountered this common problem on my 98 explorer and could not find a good how-to online. The symptoms I was experiencing were problems unlocking the door. To unlock the door I had to work the interior door handle while hitting the power button to get the door open. The power actuator on it's own would not unlock the door. The small spring in the latch assembly had broken, I re-bent it once but it broke a 2nd time so I decided to replace the latch assembly. My interior handle also broke leaving me unable to open the door.

This removal and replacement can be done by the knowledgeable enthusiast, but if you have large hands with fat fingers you may struggle. The following procedure worked on my 98, but your mileage my vary.

1. Remove the door panel and peel back the liner. If you can't get the door panel off you probably need to stop and seek help. If you are in the same situation as me and can't get the door open because of the broken interior handle you can roll down the window and pop the top of the door panel out of the track at the top with a flat screwdriver. This will allow you to get your arm in and manipulate the rod to open the door.

2. With the door open roll the window up and remove the window track at the rear edge of the window. There is a bolt at the bottom of the track, remove this bolt and lay the track down in the bottom of the door.

3. Remove the interior door handle. There are two screws to remove then slide it towards the front of the car and pull. You can then rotate it off of the rod.

4. Remove the two wiring connectors from the latch assembly. The larger one has a clip, and the smaller one in the upper corner just pulls off.

5. Locate the rod that goes from the latch assembly to the exterior door handle. Open the clip on the latch end to free the rod and leave it hanging free. Count how many threads are exposed or mark the bar so you can install it in the same place on the new assembly.

6. Use a large phillips screw driver to remove the three screws holding the latch assembly in place. You may have to use a pair of vice grips on the screw driver handle for leverage.

7. With the latch assembly free in the door pull it down to free the bar that runs to the lock button from the sheet metal at the top of the door. Leave it hanging from the latch assembly.

8. Work the end of the bar that runs from the lock assembly to the lock cylinder free of the rubber clips on the arm on the back of the cylinder.

9. Take the entire assembly and rotate it to free it from the J on the end of the rod from the actuator on the bottom of the door. Work the assembly out of the door with the interior handle rod, door lock button rod, and lock cylinder rod still attached.

10. Transfer the interior handle rod, door lock button rod, and lock cylinder rod to the new lock assembly. There is a tab in the top corner of of the assembly where the smaller wiring connector slides on, make sure it is bent out perpendicular so you can slide the connector on.

11. Insert the new assembly into the door and rotate it over the J bend on the end of the rod coming form the lock actuator. Make sure that you are not trapping the wiring or the exterior handle rod behind the assembly.

12. Hook the lock cylinder rod through the rubber clips on the arm on the back of the cylinder.

13. Insert the lock button bar through the hole in the sheet metal at the top of the door.

14. Screw the latch assembly down with the three existing screws through the edge of the door.

15. Use the plastic clip to attach the exterior door handle rod to the latch assembly.

16. Connect the two wiring connectors.

17. Reinstall the interior door handle.

18. Reinstall the window track. It snaps into place at the top then replace the bolt at the bottom.

18. Make sure everything works! Don't shut the door yet, just make sure the power lock works, and the dor unlocks when you pull the interior handle. Use a screwdriver to close the latch jaws and make sure the interior handle releases them. You should now be able to shut and reopen the door and make sure the window goes up and down.

NOTES : During this process a mirror may help you see what is going on. If you need a reference for reassembly take the door panel off of the other door to look at.

There may be a better way to do this, but this is what I know worked on my 98.
 



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question-

New member and this thread is a great resource, helped me identify the driver door problem for my wifes 99 explorer sport. The door not opening reliably prevented if from passing inspection.

anyway, my question is one of part availability. I have a ford dealer a few miles from me, and I went down there to buy the latch assembly, part number FMC6L5Z7821813C, and I was told "You can't get that anymore". The guy said the same thing for replacement wheel studs, which I was able to buy down the street from him at an advance auto parts.

Is this ford parts guy feeding me BS, or is the latch assembly actually not available anymore from ford since the start of the thread? Have not been to a new dealership yet to double check the local parts guy

I think it's BS OR he tried to enter the whole # which was too many characters.

If I enter the whole part # on Fordparts.com it doesn't find the part but if I search for only 6L5Z7821813C it does find it. Currently they're $55 on Amazon or $53 on Rock Auto before the 5% forum discount code and shipping.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=5549007&cc=1354542

Seems like I got one from a dealership around 4, maybe even 8 years ago for $40 and was amazed at the time because it's the only thing a dealer hasn't wanted a lot more for.
 



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Thanks for that link!
I may just order from rockauto.
 






Can you tell me how long that spring was or what the part number (and where you got it) is for that spring?

I don't know, just went to Ace Hardware and eyeballed it about 3 inches longs and not too strong.
 






So i checked two dealers near me and the price seems to be 80 bucks local, and everyone had it in stock apart from the first guy who obviously didnt want to help.

I ended up doing this the second most expensive way and buying the 80 dollar part so it would be done immediately. This thread was super useful, thanks again to the OP!

Just out of curiousity i had ford service price out the job (same expensive dealer) ,they wanted almost 1000 dollars! Holy ****.
 






I don't know, just went to Ace Hardware and eyeballed it about 3 inches longs and not too strong.

Yeah, I just went to Home Depot and got two different ones. I put the lighter/weaker one in but I may switch to the heavier one at some point (it only unlocks about 8 out of 10 times)
 






My rear door with the spring broken still works, possibly because I sprayed a ton of grease into it.
 






Yeah, I just went to Home Depot and got two different ones. I put the lighter/weaker one in but I may switch to the heavier one at some point (it only unlocks about 8 out of 10 times)

Moving the top end of the spring to change the angle might help.
 






Just thought I'd update the thread - I just finished replacing the latch mechanism and a big THANK YOU to all for the helpful info on how to perform the repair. One comment that I wish I had paid attention to was in regards to the lock cylinder rod retainer. I tried to work the rod out of the clip and of course one of the legs of the clip broke. That stupid clip cost me $17 bucks at the Ford dealer and that was after they gave me $5 off for crying about how much they were charging me.

Oh, and when I did take the c-clip off, it disappeared so I thought I'd buy one of those - $5 please. I said no and went home and pounded on the door until the clip fell into the bottom where I could retrieve it.

OK, that's done, time for a cold adult beverage to drown my $orrow$!
 






Doing this now. I went through the process of replacing the actuator thinking it was bad to find out the problem was/is the latch. I had to buy a new actuator and interior door handle. I damaged the actuator trying to do the aluminum foil fix.

Now the question is...spring fix or disassembly? I think I am going to try to the spring fix first. ;) If I end replacing the latch I will try to shoot a video if I have not lost my patience. I worked on this all day yesterday.
 






^ I did the spring fix alone a few years back and it still works so I'd do it that way again. Just make sure that the spring is actually broken. If it's still there then it's some other part of the latch that's the problem.
 












My spring fix - Pictures and Videos

Here is how I did it:

2000 Ford Explorer 4-door. Fixed with new spring purchased at hardware store. I hope it lasts. :thumbsup:

Driver door would not unlock and open using the key, keypad, or remote fob. Door could only be opened/unlocked using door handle from inside.

After a while the inside handle stopped working and the door got stuck shut. After fiddling with the lock switch the door lock opened and the door opened.

To prevent the door lock from engaging inadvertently or automatically when the SUV was in gear the fuse #18 (25-amp) that controls the door locks was temporarily removed until the problems was fixed. This way all the doors remained unlocked all the time and the driver door could only be opened from the outside (lowering the window and reaching the outside handle from inside).

The problem was initially troubleshoot for a bad actuator. The actuator was replaced but the problem persisted. Closer inspection revealed that a small spring inside the latch assembly had broken off and was not able to provide enough tension to move the rods that would cause the lock to unlock.

To fix the problem a new spring was installed to aid the actuator move the latch down which will cause the rod to move up and unlock the door.
Follow the link below to see pictures of the bad spring and the new spring, and pictures of the new spring installed. The spring was purchased at a local hardware store. The spring has low tension.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/27219978@N05/sets/72157650360504502/


For a video of the operation of the latch with no spring go to: http://youtu.be/np8ZYVX_fMA

For a video of the operation of the latch with the new spring installed go to: http://youtu.be/B9ariRjw76E







16131141669_954acc2e64_m.jpg


16131479077_ab4c0db9a3_m.jpg



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Yeap. Broken. Have a pic of it. I actually could see it with the door open look into the latch.

I installed the spring slightly different than Patentmike (http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3293940&postcount=136)

If that works for you it looks like a great inexpensive fix, but to clarify it's not what I was talking about. I directly fixed the spring that broke in the latch by putting a new one in the same place, accessing it from outside the door, not getting inside the door cavity.

Anyway it might be possible to source that spring separately. I saw a spring for an older Mustang latch that "might" work but there's not enough info to know for sure. If another one of my latches stops working I may investigate the dimensions of these or similar parts further:

http://www.lamustang.com/ShowItem/100140 1967 - 1970 Mustang Door Latch Spring.aspx
 






So I've been reading through the forums and realized I haven't found a how-to on how to remove and replace the Door rod end clip (the yellow/white clip that holds the door handle rod. If someone could either direct me to the proper thread or tell me how, it would be greatly appropriated. I would like to save myself over $100 if I can do it myself.

Thanks guys, Brian:exp:
 






My Version of the Fix '99 Drivers Door

I was having problems with my drivers door. Here were the symptoms.
  • Door would not unlock using the remote. It would pop up just not enough to unlock.
  • Found that locking the door before closing created this situation. Closing the door then locking didn't.... most of the time.
  • When the remote couldn't unlock, neither would the interior electric lock buttons. The key cylinder would not turn either.
  • Only way to open the door was the inside door handle which was noticeably harder.
I had a new latch in hand ($50) and had some delusional idea that it was going to be a piece of cake to swap it out....... I pulled the door panel and looked inside. :eek: Rods, levers, wires, and stuff everywhere. I knew I could find a better answer on the Explorer Forum.

The "spring lifting the rod" fix sounded easier than replacing the entire latch so I tried that first. I mocked it up with a rubber-band, as someone else here had done. It worked!!

Here is my permanent fix using just stuff I had around the shop. Bending the end of a spring and hooking it onto something at an obscure angle is creating a future failure. I wanted something more forgiving than a spring. I used 1/8" bungee cord. This bungee is designed for marine outdoors use. I used the sewing machine and zig-zag stitched loops on both ends. Tying a knot would work just fine. This fix was soooo easy. The preload is less than an inch. In other words the bungee is stretched less than an inch when installed. There is NO static stress on the "rubber band". It'll out live the truck.

IMG_3471.jpg


I drilled two small holes in the edge of the door and secured the "spring" with a nylon wire tie.

IMG_3476.jpg
IMG_3475.jpg


A piece of bungee and a zip tie and everything works again. Now all I need is a refund on this latch.
 






does anyone know which way the retainer clip on the rear latch of a 2000 ford explorer is supposed to go when I put it in it just keeps popping out it is a new clip and I never saw how it originally was
 






Dumb question, and if I missed the answer, please forgive me.

What do the power leads on the latch assembly do? Isn't the lock/unlock functionality by way of the actuator and the bar that connects it to the latch?

I've got the door of one of my Explorers currently gutted - busted window regulator, busted latch and busted actuator, so I'm waiting for parts to show up to put everything back together, figured I'd ask, as I'm not seeing why this thing has it's own power...

Thanks!
 












^ Aren't they the door ajar/interior-light/etc sense switches?

That might explain why the lights aren't turning on with the door open/latch out at the moment.

Good to know, thank you!!
 



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Thanks everybody for all the tips - another great thread that highlights how incredibly helpful this forum is.

Did this job yesterday on the two rear doors on my high mileage (315K miles, still on the first engine and first transmission!) 1998 XLT.

I also got stuck at step #8 - tried and tried to rotate the latch mechanism off the door lock actuator bar but couldn’t get it off. Back to the forum to study the thread: RuggedBeastTruck had the right answer, but it wasn’t until I got to robertsc’s post that I actually understood it. I got tripped up on the reference to the ‘lock cylinder’ - I thought this was a reference to the lock cylinder where the key inserts for the driver’s door. No - the thing that needs to be popped off the C clip is the electric door lock actuator - the lowest component of the whole assembly. Pretty easy to get out, a real bear to get back in. The winning reassembly strategy: used two thin flat metal putty knives so the stack-up is: outer side of the C-clip, putty knife, actuator, putty knife, inner side of the C-clip. Now spread the C clip with the putty knives while pushing down on the actuator body really hard. That gets the two bosses on the actuator body past the lips of the white plastic grommets and roughly aligned with the holes they’ll go into. Now work loose the outer putty knife while holding the actuator in place to let the outer boss slip into it’s hole, then repeat for the inner putty knife.

The whole thing makes more sense if you visualize how it was probably originally assembled on the factory line: the assembly is inserted into the door with the inner door lever rod and the electric actuator rods already connected. Then the wiring connectors attached, then the manual door lock bar connected, then the whole assembly maneuvered up to it’s final position and then attached with the three exterior screws. Then the exterior door handle bar is connected with a little ‘bias’ - that is: a little gentle upward pressure on that rod before clipping it in so that all of the exterior door handle upward motion goes into pushing downward on the latch (ie no mechanical ‘slack’ in that arm). Finally the C clip for the electric door lock actuator is riveted to the bottom of the door. So the easiest way to get it out is to mostly reverse those steps - except we open the C clip to release the electric door lock actuator instead of removing and replacing the rivet.

Replaced the exterior door handles at the same time - they’ve all had broken springs. The hard part is starting the nut on the screws that replace the two rivets (back to robertsc’s original question): create a small loop of masking tape (adhesive facing outward) and press one side to the index finger of one hand, press the nut into the other side of the tape, now reach up with that finger while using the other hand to rotate the screw on the exterior of the new door handle to start the nut.

Very satisfying to have the door latches working correctly again!
 






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